$1000 to spend, fix 4+3 or upgrade?
02-01-2010, 03:16 PM
#41
Racer
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O wow...I just got off the phone with a local classic car shop and they said it would cost me $400 just to have them open the tranny, take a look, then close it all back up.
02-01-2010, 07:25 PM
#44
Drifting
How long have you had the car? I ask because the combination of the overdrive and a shift into 2nd occasionally causes bad shifts. Maybe you would call it grinding depending on your definition. Try turning the overdrive off and driving that way as a general rule. You only need the overdrive when on the highway and even then it is optional.
Also, you might change your gear oil. Try Royal Purples Max Gear (I think). I found it to be a little lighter, especially when cold.
Also, you might change your gear oil. Try Royal Purples Max Gear (I think). I found it to be a little lighter, especially when cold.
02-01-2010, 07:30 PM
#45
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How long have you had the car? I ask because the combination of the overdrive and a shift into 2nd occasionally causes bad shifts. Maybe you would call it grinding depending on your definition. Try turning the overdrive off and driving that way as a general rule. You only need the overdrive when on the highway and even then it is optional.
Also, you might change your gear oil. Try Royal Purples Max Gear (I think). I found it to be a little lighter, especially when cold.
Also, you might change your gear oil. Try Royal Purples Max Gear (I think). I found it to be a little lighter, especially when cold.
As to turning the OD off, its hard for me to figure out whether its on or off becuase no OD light ever lights up on my dash.
02-01-2010, 09:21 PM
#46
Safety Car
The next time you drive it, get it up to operating temp and go through the first four gears. Push the O/D switch and see if the rpm's drop. If so, you are in O/D. Push it again and the rpm's should go back up. Then the O/D is turned off. Remember to use your clutch always when switching the button. There is a yellow light on the driver info center in the middle of the dash that lights up only when the O/D is engaged. You should definitely feel and hear the drop or raise in engine rpms.
02-01-2010, 11:20 PM
#47
Le Mans Master
02-02-2010, 08:34 AM
#48
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I can definitely feel the RPMs going up or down when the OD decides to do whatever its doing. Theres just no light on my dash that tells me its operating.
02-02-2010, 09:06 AM
#49
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Bucs34:
I'd had my transmission out 3 times so here is some sound advice.
Fluid makes a huge difference. Don't use synchromesh fluid. You will get metal flakes in the oil from the shift forks/sliders.
The best fluid I found is either Royal Purple Max gear 75w-90 or Redline 75W-90 NS. (The NS means no slip - make sure you get this one.)
A Doug Nash ST-10 is NOT the same as normal ST-10. The synchro rings are different as are the gear cones. If you use regular parts you will be sorry. They look close, but they're not the same. I know because I made this mistake.
The replacement synchro rings compared to the original design are bad (meaning they don't function as well). I would try changing the fluid first. The original synchro rings from my 90k trans were in better shape than the replacements. I did a rebuild on the 4 speed because I was doing the OD. The OD is perfect and always was since the rebuild. The 4 speed has been a headache because of the aftermarket parts.
Also, per the factory service manual check clutch release. An excellent way to do this is either place a 1 inch thick pipe under the clutch pedal, push the clutch in and wait 10 seconds. Ease the transmission slowly into reverse. If it starts to grind at all the clutch isn't releasing properly.
So try these first: 1) clutch release, 2) if ok, change the fluid with the above.
Good luck!
I'd had my transmission out 3 times so here is some sound advice.
Fluid makes a huge difference. Don't use synchromesh fluid. You will get metal flakes in the oil from the shift forks/sliders.
The best fluid I found is either Royal Purple Max gear 75w-90 or Redline 75W-90 NS. (The NS means no slip - make sure you get this one.)
A Doug Nash ST-10 is NOT the same as normal ST-10. The synchro rings are different as are the gear cones. If you use regular parts you will be sorry. They look close, but they're not the same. I know because I made this mistake.
The replacement synchro rings compared to the original design are bad (meaning they don't function as well). I would try changing the fluid first. The original synchro rings from my 90k trans were in better shape than the replacements. I did a rebuild on the 4 speed because I was doing the OD. The OD is perfect and always was since the rebuild. The 4 speed has been a headache because of the aftermarket parts.
Also, per the factory service manual check clutch release. An excellent way to do this is either place a 1 inch thick pipe under the clutch pedal, push the clutch in and wait 10 seconds. Ease the transmission slowly into reverse. If it starts to grind at all the clutch isn't releasing properly.
So try these first: 1) clutch release, 2) if ok, change the fluid with the above.
Good luck!
02-02-2010, 10:21 AM
#50
Le Mans Master
02-02-2010, 10:42 AM
#51
Safety Car
I had it for one summer. I live in MA so right now its sitting in a storage facility till winter is gone. Im definitely going to change the fluid in both the OD and the manual portion of the tranny and see if that makes any difference before I bring it to a shop or rebuild.
As to turning the OD off, its hard for me to figure out whether its on or off becuase no OD light ever lights up on my dash.
As to turning the OD off, its hard for me to figure out whether its on or off becuase no OD light ever lights up on my dash.
I had an '87 vette. 700R4, T5, then ZF6.
The ZF6 is strong, but makes noise, and shifts kinda clunky. I hated it.
The T5 is a nice smooth rail shifted transmission. It is a bit of work to swap into a C4, but would be fine for most guys. C4 is a lot lighter than a thirdgen fbody. I used to drag race T5's on a supercharged thirdgen that had around 550hp at the flywheel.
Any trans swap you do will negatively effect resale value, which is already low to begin with. I could buy two C4's today for what one went for 5 years ago. If the car is going to stay stock, just fix the T10. They are one of the easier trans to bench rebuild.
To summarize, a ZF6 swap is going to cost you around $2k when done, and it may or may not rattle your brains out depending on the flywheel you use.
A T5 swap probably around $1k, since all of a sudden everyone thinks the T5's are worth $600. I used to get them for $200 all day long.
Fixing your T10, under $1k as long as the OD unit didn't take a crap.
Tremec swap, $3500.
I'd fix the trans you have. Keep the car for a bit, and sell it to a 17 year old in a few years when you decide you want a nicer car.
-- Joe
02-02-2010, 12:04 PM
#52
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Bucs34:
I'd had my transmission out 3 times so here is some sound advice.
Fluid makes a huge difference. Don't use synchromesh fluid. You will get metal flakes in the oil from the shift forks/sliders.
The best fluid I found is either Royal Purple Max gear 75w-90 or Redline 75W-90 NS. (The NS means no slip - make sure you get this one.)
A Doug Nash ST-10 is NOT the same as normal ST-10. The synchro rings are different as are the gear cones. If you use regular parts you will be sorry. They look close, but they're not the same. I know because I made this mistake.
The replacement synchro rings compared to the original design are bad (meaning they don't function as well). I would try changing the fluid first. The original synchro rings from my 90k trans were in better shape than the replacements. I did a rebuild on the 4 speed because I was doing the OD. The OD is perfect and always was since the rebuild. The 4 speed has been a headache because of the aftermarket parts.
Also, per the factory service manual check clutch release. An excellent way to do this is either place a 1 inch thick pipe under the clutch pedal, push the clutch in and wait 10 seconds. Ease the transmission slowly into reverse. If it starts to grind at all the clutch isn't releasing properly.
So try these first: 1) clutch release, 2) if ok, change the fluid with the above.
Good luck!
I'd had my transmission out 3 times so here is some sound advice.
Fluid makes a huge difference. Don't use synchromesh fluid. You will get metal flakes in the oil from the shift forks/sliders.
The best fluid I found is either Royal Purple Max gear 75w-90 or Redline 75W-90 NS. (The NS means no slip - make sure you get this one.)
A Doug Nash ST-10 is NOT the same as normal ST-10. The synchro rings are different as are the gear cones. If you use regular parts you will be sorry. They look close, but they're not the same. I know because I made this mistake.
The replacement synchro rings compared to the original design are bad (meaning they don't function as well). I would try changing the fluid first. The original synchro rings from my 90k trans were in better shape than the replacements. I did a rebuild on the 4 speed because I was doing the OD. The OD is perfect and always was since the rebuild. The 4 speed has been a headache because of the aftermarket parts.
Also, per the factory service manual check clutch release. An excellent way to do this is either place a 1 inch thick pipe under the clutch pedal, push the clutch in and wait 10 seconds. Ease the transmission slowly into reverse. If it starts to grind at all the clutch isn't releasing properly.
So try these first: 1) clutch release, 2) if ok, change the fluid with the above.
Good luck!
)
02-04-2010, 06:42 PM
#54
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http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1571645223-post6.html
There are drain and fill plugs on the pass side of trans
02-04-2010, 07:13 PM
#55
Le Mans Master
^^What he said.
that O/D has no drain plug. you have to take out all 15 of those 10mm bolts and get an oil bath while doing it.
I cut a drain plug in mine....I did a write up on it, let me know if you want the link as I have to search it out. I'd post it here, but they want money to post pictures...ya' know....$$$$ to help you out.
that O/D has no drain plug. you have to take out all 15 of those 10mm bolts and get an oil bath while doing it.
I cut a drain plug in mine....I did a write up on it, let me know if you want the link as I have to search it out. I'd post it here, but they want money to post pictures...ya' know....$$$$ to help you out.
02-04-2010, 08:05 PM
#56
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02-04-2010, 10:15 PM
#58
Team Owner
The OD unit takes just over 2 quarts of Dexron III ATF and the 4-speed takes about 2 pints of gear oil. You simply fill the 4-speed with gear oil (80W-90 GL5 gear oil) until it runs out the fill plug hole. Make sure you can remove the filler plug before you remove the drain plug. If you can't get the fill plug out, it will pretty hard to refill the trans...
