C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Another 4+3 question (mainly)

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Old Jan 30, 2010 | 07:56 PM
  #1  
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From: levittown pa. usa Even a bad day with my `Vette, is better than a good day at work
St. Jude Donor '10
Default Another 4+3 question (mainly)

My neighbor liked my `87, & wanted to get himself a earlier C4. An `85 poped up at a dealership close by in NJ, & we went to look at it. The car looks to be in great shape with only 38k on it. The test drive was fine, & he bought it "as is" for $6700. On the drive back home, the clutch started to behave wierdly. At times while shifting, it was fine, it would catch about mid-way up, & all was good. The very next shift, the clutch would go straight to the floor, & feel like there was no resistance at all. It still does it randomly & you don`t know which shift you are likley to dislocate your kneecap when the pedal goes straight down. The resiviour is full. Any ideas?? I did not see anything in the search feature about this problem. When it gets above freezing, we are going to try bleeding the clutch to check for air in the line. We are not at all familiar with these transmissions. Makes me glad mine is an auto

Thanks
Ken
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Old Jan 30, 2010 | 08:10 PM
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Default 4+3 trans

Sounds like you need a master or slave clutch cylinder.If the ones on the car look new you may get away with just bleading the slave cylinder.
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Old Jan 30, 2010 | 08:31 PM
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I agree. clutch master needs a rebuild kit.
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Old Jan 30, 2010 | 08:45 PM
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From: levittown pa. usa Even a bad day with my `Vette, is better than a good day at work
St. Jude Donor '10
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Thanks for the replies. As I said we have to wait for the weather to get a bit warmer to start crawling around under the car
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Old Feb 1, 2010 | 10:39 AM
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^^as stated, I think it is the M/C that needs to be replaced. You are experiencing blow by, and heat can affect the way a M/C behaves.

Now, crawling under is not really needed. If you or your friend have a garage or covered area you can do this job.

The Hardest part is the through rod attached to the clutch pedal.

You have to take out the seat cushion (just lifts out) and then lay a towel on the metal part to cushion the sharp edges...then you have to climb under there and have your head where your feet go and your feet sticking out the top.

Your friend has to be there to hand you things or find them when you drop them as what you drop will be behind your head. You get a "C" clip off and it is loose. that is all you have to do while on your head.

Then outside, under the hood, you see the M/C easily. Take the single hose off and the two bolts...and you got if off.

Reverse the procedure for the new install and forget all that **** about bench bleeding yada yada......just put the new one on and hook it up......fill it with fluid and pump it a few dozen times........it is designed to be self bleeding. Long drives producing heat help this process.

The whole process is a one hour job.....
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Old Feb 1, 2010 | 08:19 PM
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From: levittown pa. usa Even a bad day with my `Vette, is better than a good day at work
St. Jude Donor '10
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Originally Posted by jhammons01
^^as stated, I think it is the M/C that needs to be replaced. You are experiencing blow by, and heat can affect the way a M/C behaves.

Now, crawling under is not really needed. If you or your friend have a garage or covered area you can do this job.

The Hardest part is the through rod attached to the clutch pedal.

You have to take out the seat cushion (just lifts out) and then lay a towel on the metal part to cushion the sharp edges...then you have to climb under there and have your head where your feet go and your feet sticking out the top.

Your friend has to be there to hand you things or find them when you drop them as what you drop will be behind your head. You get a "C" clip off and it is loose. that is all you have to do while on your head.

Then outside, under the hood, you see the M/C easily. Take the single hose off and the two bolts...and you got if off.

Reverse the procedure for the new install and forget all that **** about bench bleeding yada yada......just put the new one on and hook it up......fill it with fluid and pump it a few dozen times........it is designed to be self bleeding. Long drives producing heat help this process.

The whole process is a one hour job.....
Thanks for the procedure, however, since its my neighbor`s car, he can stuff his fat a$$ under the dash, & I`ll hand him the parts . He also ordered the slave cylinder & he wants to replacea hydraulic hose under there because he said its 26 yrs old.
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Old Mar 21, 2010 | 07:58 PM
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Now, would it still be the master cylinder if it continually goes to the floor? I never get mine to give feedback.
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Old Mar 21, 2010 | 08:40 PM
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From: levittown pa. usa Even a bad day with my `Vette, is better than a good day at work
St. Jude Donor '10
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Originally Posted by JAbraham03
Now, would it still be the master cylinder if it continually goes to the floor? I never get mine to give feedback.
As an update that goes to your question, My friend installed a new mc (made a hell of a lot easier, thanks to the replies from you guys ), after we installed it it worked fine for three days & BAM-- pedal right to the floor again. He goes back to Auto Zone, where he bought it & they get him another. Problem solved right? HAHA. Yesterday it was such a nice day, he bundled his wife into the Vette & off they go to Sea Isle city, NJ. He almost got there & BAM-- pedal right to the floor again. He had to get it towed to a repair shop, & the mechanic there told him that the problem was that the fittings were not tight enough. He said that if even a miniscule amount of air gets into the system that pedal to the floor is the result. Evidently the mechanic was right, there was no more trouble on the ride home, & its still holding up. I`m wondering if putting plumbers tape on the threads & then tightening the fitting would have prevented the leak. Again, thanks to all for the help. This is a great forum with great people.
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