When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I'm doing the brakes on my '93, standard brakes.
The pads are labeled "left" and "right". Does this mean that both pads labeled left, go on the left side of the car(sitting in the driver's seat)? OR...are they labeled left and right refering to the inside and outside of the rotor, again(sitting in the driver's seat). I did the brakes on this car about two yeas ago, and just put them back on the way they came off. I'm just wondering if they were done wrong before I bought the car. Also, the brakes right now have a bias clip on all pads, the diagrams in the shop manual only show on clip per side. But, it seems that you need the clips on all the pads for then to work right. One more thing, is the "wear indicator" supposed to be towards the top of the calliper, and on the inside or outside of the rotor?
Thanks folks, I just want to do it right.....
Well.....this still doesn't make any sense. If you put the brakes back together the way the shop manual shows, the wear indicator is bound up in the mounting bracket. I think the mounting brackets were on the right side to start off with.
I still need to know about the left and right pads though.
Do both the pads marked left (or right), go in the same caliper?
Or maybe it's just the pads having the wear indicator positioned wrong?
Umm...the brackets should be installed so the retainer pin and circlip are at the bottom of the caliper.
The wear indicator should be on the trailing edge of the caliper (i.e. top). Shop manual says inboard pads, but I put mine on the outside. I'm not sure it really matters. My pads never had R or L markings.
All four pads should have bias springs. These go on the bottom of the caliper (near pin/circlip).
Can't you compare to your old pads to see if everything is in the right spot?
On the old pads, the pads marked "r" were on the left side with the wear indicator pad on the outside of the rotor.
Did your wear indicator rub against the mounting bracket a little?
Well, thinking about it, your wear indicator would have plenty of room if you put it on the outside of the rotor.
On the old pads, the pads marked "r" were on the left side with the wear indicator pad on the outside of the rotor.
Those two pads should have been on the right front caliper, which would then jive with the service manual. But like I mentioned, I don't think the wear sensor location matters, as long as it's on the top side of the caliper.
Did your wear indicator rub against the mounting bracket a little?
Well, thinking about it, your wear indicator would have plenty of room if you put it on the outside of the rotor.
No rubbing. I don't think it should rub on the inside either (going off memory).
well...the final deal IS...the mounting brackets were on the wrong sides. Everything fits like the book says, but I had to mount everything to see that.
The pins are now at the bottom of the calliper, the pad with the wear indicator is in the pistons, and the indicator is up, on the trailing side. All the bias clips are installed on all the pads. Now I'm just waiting for my brother to get here with the new rotors.
Inboard pads will almost always wear faster than the out board pad, especially if the caliper only has pistons on the inside. It's a good idea to make sure the indicators are inboard, "unless otherwise specified by the mfr." With all the confusion, might I suggest you break them in very carefully at first :p:
Best of luck.
The right side inboard WAS worn a lot more than the right side outboard.
The left side outboard was worn A LOT more than the left side inboard.
The way it WAS set up, was with the indicators on the outboard. I had to replace the right front rotor bacause the bias clips had rubbed a DEEP groove in the rotor. Wish I had the shop manuals two years ago when I did the brakes the first time.
Well, now I guess I need to bleed the brakes......Anybody got a good way to do it without all the pressure bleed equipment??????
> Anybody got a good way to do it without all the pressure bleed equipment??????
Get "Speed Bleeder screws" from MAD or any other parts store. They make the job very easy and no additional equip. is needed. You can actually bleed the brakes alone. they cost about $7 per caliber.
It's actually vacuum bleeding. Try Mighty Vac. The standard way with two people works well too. Speed bleeders are OK as long as they seal correctly. Do not over torque them. You can also gravity bleed. Good luck.
You shouldnt have to bleed the brakes if you didnt open the system. But if you did, you should get by , by bleeding just the fronts. Do the rt side first then lf, and make sure you get all the air out. Take your time here. Good luck :seeya :seeya