C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

wheel hub assembly question?

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Old 02-01-2010, 06:37 PM
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Elrick
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Default wheel hub assembly question?

I am putting in a new bearing in the right rear of my 86. I have taken off the caliper bracket, taken off the parking brake cable, got all 3 torx bolts out of the back, and took off the castle nut on the spline. Should the bearing assembly just pull out now or do I need to take off the u-joint from the half shaft? Also , do I need to remove the dust shield or the parking brake shoes? I thought it was ready to come out with what I have done so far put it won't and I don't want to force it. How much of a pain is it getting those torx bolts back in? Thanks guys
Old 02-01-2010, 07:05 PM
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rodj
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Hub may be rusted on yoke splines.
Once rotor is off and parts mentioned undone there is nothing else to hold hub on
Old 02-01-2010, 07:37 PM
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tblt44
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you need a bigger hammer.
No I would slightly tap around it to loosen it up
Old 02-01-2010, 08:24 PM
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StealthLT4
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Yup, tap harder. Try to tap equally around the whole perimeter as much as possible, as not to accidentally damage the knuckle.
Old 02-01-2010, 08:55 PM
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aboatguy
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I just hit the splined shaft with my BFDBH (lead hammer)



Mike
Old 02-01-2010, 09:51 PM
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Elrick
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Originally Posted by rodj
Hub may be rusted on yoke splines.
Once rotor is off and parts mentioned undone there is nothing else to hold hub on
I think you are right, I tapped away around the perimeter and can't get it loose. Put some pb blaster on the spline and hoping some of it penetrates and loosens it up over night. Thanks
Old 02-01-2010, 10:16 PM
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Elrick
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I am wondering if,since the wheel sensor was missing then there was an open passage for water for a long time. The spline could be rusted solid. any ideas? If I take off the half shaft and the u-joint straps will that help. This sucks I went through what was supposed to be the hard part in 45 minutes and spent the last couple of hours stuck. I hate to leave things for tomorrow.
Old 02-02-2010, 02:03 AM
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rodj
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Originally Posted by Elrick
If I take off the half shaft and the u-joint straps will that help..
If you drop the halfshaft clear, you should be able to hit on the end of the yoke ( cushion with a piece of timber so you don't burr threads ) driving it out the back of the hub .Refit the hub bolts loosely first to support hub when yoke comes out
Old 02-05-2010, 05:01 PM
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aboatguy
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Originally Posted by rodj
If you drop the halfshaft clear, you should be able to hit on the end of the yoke ( cushion with a piece of timber so you don't burr threads ) driving it out the back of the hub .Refit the hub bolts loosely first to support hub when yoke comes out
Do you have the hub removed yet??

rodj gave good advice or you could smack it with a BF lead hammer

A Lead hammer won't ding the threads and provides a solid (dead) Blow you won't believe......



or a big slide hammer connected to the wheel studs......

and then the last resort.....the hot wrench (sometimes heat is your ally)

Mike

Last edited by aboatguy; 02-05-2010 at 05:05 PM.
Old 02-05-2010, 11:28 PM
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Elrick
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I got it out. The BF hammer worked just fine. I was afraid to damage it at first but it came out. I have since replaced u-joints on both ends of the half shaft, which I also polished up to a mirror finish. new poly bushings in strut rod. Painted the calipers, new emc drilled/slotted rotors, emc pads. Knuckle and control arms all polished up. Looks brand new. Onto the other side. It also turned out that the wheel bearing was fine, the problem was in the tie rod, which I replaced. Anyone want to buy a rear bearing with 80k on it? I will give cheap to anyone who offered me help and advice, which a lot of you guys did. Thanks again to all.-E
Old 02-06-2010, 12:40 PM
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aboatguy
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Originally Posted by Elrick
I got it out. The BF hammer worked just fine. I was afraid to damage it at first but it came out. I have since replaced u-joints on both ends of the half shaft, which I also polished up to a mirror finish. new poly bushings in strut rod. Painted the calipers, new emc drilled/slotted rotors, emc pads. Knuckle and control arms all polished up. Looks brand new. Onto the other side. It also turned out that the wheel bearing was fine, the problem was in the tie rod, which I replaced. Anyone want to buy a rear bearing with 80k on it? I will give cheap to anyone who offered me help and advice, which a lot of you guys did. Thanks again to all.-E
Great to read that you got it removed.

I'd rather use finese however, at times a BFH is your friend.

Mike

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