wheel hub assembly question?
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,302
Likes: 2
From: colchester CT
wheel hub assembly question?
I am putting in a new bearing in the right rear of my 86. I have taken off the caliper bracket, taken off the parking brake cable, got all 3 torx bolts out of the back, and took off the castle nut on the spline. Should the bearing assembly just pull out now or do I need to take off the u-joint from the half shaft? Also , do I need to remove the dust shield or the parking brake shoes? I thought it was ready to come out with what I have done so far put it won't and I don't want to force it. How much of a pain is it getting those torx bolts back in? Thanks guys
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,302
Likes: 2
From: colchester CT
I think you are right, I tapped away around the perimeter and can't get it loose. Put some pb blaster on the spline and hoping some of it penetrates and loosens it up over night. Thanks
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,302
Likes: 2
From: colchester CT
I am wondering if,since the wheel sensor was missing then there was an open passage for water for a long time. The spline could be rusted solid. any ideas? If I take off the half shaft and the u-joint straps will that help. This sucks I went through what was supposed to be the hard part in 45 minutes and spent the last couple of hours stuck. I hate to leave things for tomorrow.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 8,838
Likes: 31
From: Australia
If you drop the halfshaft clear, you should be able to hit on the end of the yoke ( cushion with a piece of timber so you don't burr threads ) driving it out the back of the hub .Refit the hub bolts loosely first to support hub when yoke comes out
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Race Director
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 10,641
Likes: 13
From: Slidell Louisiana
rodj gave good advice or you could smack it with a BF lead hammer
A Lead hammer won't ding the threads and provides a solid (dead) Blow you won't believe......
or a big slide hammer connected to the wheel studs......
and then the last resort.....the hot wrench (sometimes heat is your ally)
Mike
Last edited by aboatguy; Feb 5, 2010 at 05:05 PM.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,302
Likes: 2
From: colchester CT
I got it out. The BF hammer worked just fine. I was afraid to damage it at first but it came out. I have since replaced u-joints on both ends of the half shaft, which I also polished up to a mirror finish. new poly bushings in strut rod. Painted the calipers, new emc drilled/slotted rotors, emc pads. Knuckle and control arms all polished up. Looks brand new. Onto the other side. It also turned out that the wheel bearing was fine, the problem was in the tie rod, which I replaced. Anyone want to buy a rear bearing with 80k on it? I will give cheap to anyone who offered me help and advice, which a lot of you guys did. Thanks again to all.-E
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 10,641
Likes: 13
From: Slidell Louisiana
I got it out. The BF hammer worked just fine. I was afraid to damage it at first but it came out. I have since replaced u-joints on both ends of the half shaft, which I also polished up to a mirror finish. new poly bushings in strut rod. Painted the calipers, new emc drilled/slotted rotors, emc pads. Knuckle and control arms all polished up. Looks brand new. Onto the other side. It also turned out that the wheel bearing was fine, the problem was in the tie rod, which I replaced. Anyone want to buy a rear bearing with 80k on it? I will give cheap to anyone who offered me help and advice, which a lot of you guys did. Thanks again to all.-E
I'd rather use finese however, at times a BFH is your friend.
Mike
