C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

NO HEAT !! please help

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Old Feb 6, 2010 | 09:08 PM
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Default NO HEAT !! please help

I have no heat. this has been an issue for some time but have never looked into it. I can replace what needs to be replaced but have never looked into what is wrong...How do I check to see what parts need to be replaced or fixed? any tests that can be done. I have some dry rotted rubber lines in my engine compartment that MIGHT have something to do with the problem. I will post pics tomorrow but any info will help !!
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Old Feb 6, 2010 | 09:43 PM
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when the heat in my 85 didnt work, it was as simple as replacing the t-stat.
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Old Feb 6, 2010 | 10:20 PM
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Step #1: Make sure the radiator is full. On most cars the heater usually runs empty and and you lose heat if first if the coolant is low.

Step #2: Make sure thermostat is working and engine gets up to temp

Step #3: Check to make sure the heated coolant is flowing to the heater core

Step #4: Make sure you have air flow through the core into the car.
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Old Feb 6, 2010 | 10:44 PM
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I just replaced my T-stat. I just refilled my coolant and I have no idea where the heater core is or what it looks like. I guess its under my dash in the passanger side. And my a/c is ice cold during the summer and air comes out so I dont know where to look to see if air is comming out of the heater core. And how do I check to see if I have coolant going to the heater core?
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Old Feb 6, 2010 | 11:04 PM
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Originally Posted by derekguzz
I just replaced my T-stat. I just refilled my coolant and I have no idea where the heater core is or what it looks like. I guess its under my dash in the passanger side. And my a/c is ice cold during the summer and air comes out so I dont know where to look to see if air is comming out of the heater core. And how do I check to see if I have coolant going to the heater core?
Get the engine up to temperature, make sure the heat is set as high as it goes and check both hoses, inlet and outlet, running to the passenger side of the firewall. If coolant is flowing through the core both will be hot. They'll be about 1 1/4" in diameter.

You can just grab them by hand. They don't get so hot that they'll burn but you won't want to hang on to them for long...

The heater control works in one of two ways. One stops the flow of hot coolant through the heater core. The other method always has hot coolant in the heater core but uses doors to seal off the heat when not needed in the car.

Not sure what year you have but I think the LT1 uses the second method. In either case if you don't have hot coolant flow through the core you will not get heat in the car.
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Old Feb 6, 2010 | 11:24 PM
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The rotten vacuum hoses will have a lot to do with no heat since the heat doors that open are controlled by vacuum.
On early cars, 84-88, the heater valve is spring loaded to open. vacuum turns off the heat and enables A/C.
If you are experiencing no heat, I suggest you perform the afore mentioned steps, and if you still can't get heat, that you purchase a vacuum pump that you work by hand, and go from point A to B to determine where the vacuum leaks might be.
If the vacuum gauge goes to zero fast, it's a leak. trace that hose till the vacuum holds.
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Old Feb 7, 2010 | 12:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Blue 92
The other method always has hot coolant in the heater core but uses doors to seal off the heat when not needed in the car.

Cars with electronic air have a electric stepper motor that operates the air blend door to give required air temp.The vac only changes the vent positions
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Old Feb 7, 2010 | 10:30 AM
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The third method I've seen:

On the Model A Ford the heater was a @ 2" tube through the firewall with a flip lid on it. If you wanted heat you flipped the lid up.
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Old Feb 7, 2010 | 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by rodj

Cars with electronic air have a electric stepper motor that operates the air blend door to give required air temp.The vac only changes the vent positions
exactly
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Old Feb 7, 2010 | 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by rodj

Cars with electronic air have a electric stepper motor that operates the air blend door to give required air temp.The vac only changes the vent positions
Yes, if you have electronic AC in your '94, there is a stepper motor which controls the blend door action. If you have manual AC, there is simply a metal rod that moves the blend door as you slide the control from "Hot" to "Cold". Anyway, you can check to see if the blend door is operating correctly by doing a simple visual inspection. Just remove the blower fan module from the evaporator housing and observe blend door movement as assistant moves temp. control from "Hot" to "Cold":


Note: Since you are not getting any heat, and if the problem is your blend door, it will be stuck in a fashion to where you will not be able to see the heater core when you look through the opening in evaporator housing opening(ie the blend door will be covering up the heater core so that no air will pass through it).

Last edited by Al Borman; Feb 7, 2010 at 11:44 AM.
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Old Feb 7, 2010 | 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Blue 92
Get the engine up to temperature, make sure the heat is set as high as it goes and check both hoses, inlet and outlet, running to the passenger side of the firewall. If coolant is flowing through the core both will be hot. They'll be about 1 1/4" in diameter.

You can just grab them by hand. They don't get so hot that they'll burn but you won't want to hang on to them for long...

The heater control works in one of two ways. One stops the flow of hot coolant through the heater core. The other method always has hot coolant in the heater core but uses doors to seal off the heat when not needed in the car.

Not sure what year you have but I think the LT1 uses the second method. In either case if you don't have hot coolant flow through the core you will not get heat in the car.
All good info. from Blue92. And yes, the LT1 always has coolant flowing through the heater core. Blend door has full temp. control by either blocking all airflow through core when temp. control set to full "Cold" or partial flow through heater core for any in-between temp. settings. I think it was already mentioned, but it is real important that your coolant level is FULL. The heater will not work well if you are low on coolant.

Although probably not your problem, here is a pic of the heater flow restrictor. It attemps to regulate the pressure going to the heater core by means of a spring and plunger inside a plastic POS housing. I have had one of these burst on me before(this assembly is glued together, Arghhh). Anway, this is the "Inlet" hose to your heater core.


Last edited by Al Borman; Feb 7, 2010 at 02:50 PM.
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Old Feb 7, 2010 | 01:12 PM
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you guys are amazing thanks soo much. I am going to see if my lines going into my firewall are hott while operating temps are reached. Then im going to check the flipper door thing. Thanks guys ill b back on in a bit to discuss more..
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Old Feb 7, 2010 | 03:09 PM
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coolant lines going into my firewall to the heater core were warm but in no way hott. they might have only been warm due to me driving for half hour then checking them. I looked for all dry rotted lines and found 2. they are both going into some round black looking thing RIGHT above the battery. one line feeds into the ASR housing which I took off and am going to replace. The other I disconnected but it leeds back into my car where my feet are under the dash. I have no idea where it really goes. There is no way to really stick me head in there and look at how it comes off or goes back on. I am confused what these lines do and what they both feed into.
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Old Feb 7, 2010 | 03:27 PM
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Did this all start after you replaced the thermostat?

What temp thermostat did you put in?
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Old Feb 7, 2010 | 03:38 PM
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When the core plugs - coolant flows over the top but not through it - temp of the hoses doesn't tell you much of anything; though the fact that yours aren't scalding, would indicate decent flow through the core. Pulling the Blower Module will confirm a Temp Door problem. Probably a stripped gear which is common for this Year.

I've got no idea what hoses you're talking about, but there is a vacuum source through the Firewall to the HVAC programmer. If it's busted it's going to be Defrost only so if the vent position is correct with whatever's dialed into the Panel, that ain't the hose you're concerned with.
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Old Feb 7, 2010 | 04:04 PM
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I would pull the hoses off of the heater core and run a garden hose and flush the heck out of it. THat's what fixed mone when I had no heat
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Old Feb 7, 2010 | 07:56 PM
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I have had no heat for about 2 years but now that I am in the mood to fix stuff I fidgured I would attack the problem. I replaced the thermo stat after it stuck and busted my lines. So yes the heat issue was current before the t-stat problem. I will pull the housing of and see whats going on

P.S I did notice a while ago under my passanger floor mat that there was water. BUT I didn't know till now that its coolant and probably comming from my heater core.
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Old Feb 7, 2010 | 10:11 PM
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Originally Posted by derekguzz
I have had no heat for about 2 years but now that I am in the mood to fix stuff I fidgured I would attack the problem. I replaced the thermo stat after it stuck and busted my lines. So yes the heat issue was current before the t-stat problem. I will pull the housing of and see whats going on

P.S I did notice a while ago under my passanger floor mat that there was water. BUT I didn't know till now that its coolant and probably comming from my heater core.
Ouch !!! Sounds like a new heater core is in your future. I have read that changing these are a major PITA, so use the search feature and read and heed ........ Sorry to hear this..... You still need to check to see if the blend door is inoperative....

Do you have electronic AC system in your '94 ????????
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Old Feb 7, 2010 | 11:44 PM
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yes it is
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