C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Need help removing balancer hub

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Old Feb 10, 2010 | 08:34 PM
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Default Need help removing balancer hub

Hey all,

So I did perform a search and came up with some great resources.

However!

I can't seem to get the bolt out of the hub. I can get it loose but once it gets to what feels like the end of the threads it just spins and doesn't come out. I am not sure what to do since this is a major roadblock to removing the hub and therefore the seal.

Help!
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Old Feb 10, 2010 | 08:47 PM
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The bolt head is 3/4". Use a 9/16" open end wrench on the shaft of the bolt and a 2x4 or some other spacer between the wrench and the pulley. Tap the wrench with a hammer or mallet and it should easily come out.
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Old Feb 10, 2010 | 09:05 PM
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Is this a L-98? Remove the 3 outside pulley bolts, use a prybar between pulley & hub, while you're turning the center bolt, 5/8 head. Hope it comes out.
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Old Feb 11, 2010 | 12:11 AM
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"Hub" tells me LT engine since L98s don't have a separate hub.

Seems like you have a couple of crossed threads toward the end.

You can try a method of pulling on the bolt while, at the same time, turning it. An impact wrench, drill with a socket on the end, etc.

You could even try installing the hub puller and when the hub stops against the bolt, try turning the bolt more.

Grab the bolt head with some vice grips, pull and turn at the same time; wiggle and pull.

Sooner or later it'll come out.

Be sure to chase the crank threads once the bolt is out and, buy a new bolt to replace the one you have since it'll probably have a few dinged threads.

Hope this helps.

Jake
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Old Feb 11, 2010 | 07:28 AM
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Originally Posted by ex-x-fire
Is this a L-98? Remove the 3 outside pulley bolts, use a prybar between pulley & hub, while you're turning the center bolt, 5/8 head. Hope it comes out.
His "public view profile" states he has a 93'.
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Old Feb 11, 2010 | 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by miscstudent
Hey all,

So I did perform a search and came up with some great resources.

However!

I can't seem to get the bolt out of the hub. I can get it loose but once it gets to what feels like the end of the threads it just spins and doesn't come out. I am not sure what to do since this is a major roadblock to removing the hub and therefore the seal.

Help!
You need to screw the bolt back about 4 turns. Then use a short harmarnic balancer puller to began removing the hub. The bolt on the puller will contact the head of the bolt thereby protecting your crank threads. Pull the hub as far as you can untill it tighens up on the crank bolt. Then you will need to use a longer crank bolt so you can incrementally keep pulling the hub off the crank shaft. This process is tedious and very difficult. The other method is to get a crank bolt with the head sawed off and then cut a screw driver slot so you can install in the crank and let puller bolt push against it. What ever you do not let the puller bolt push on the end of the crank. It could damage the threads or worse become stuck in the crank. Be smart and think about what your pushing against.
Hope this helps.
93cruiser
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Old Feb 12, 2010 | 11:31 PM
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Originally Posted by 93cruiser
You need to screw the bolt back about 4 turns. Then use a short harmarnic balancer puller to began removing the hub. The bolt on the puller will contact the head of the bolt thereby protecting your crank threads. Pull the hub as far as you can untill it tighens up on the crank bolt. Then you will need to use a longer crank bolt so you can incrementally keep pulling the hub off the crank shaft. This process is tedious and very difficult. The other method is to get a crank bolt with the head sawed off and then cut a screw driver slot so you can install in the crank and let puller bolt push against it. What ever you do not let the puller bolt push on the end of the crank. It could damage the threads or worse become stuck in the crank. Be smart and think about what your pushing against.
Hope this helps.
93cruiser
Only screwing the crank bolt 4 turns or so can mess up the threads if the hub is tight. You need to bottom out the bolt so the threads aren't taking the linear load of the puller.

I use progressively longer bolts like you mentioned, bottoming each one out as I go.

It's a pain, no doubt.

Most people use the stock bolt, or progressively longer bolts to re-install the hub. While that works 99% of the time, if you do it enough times you will eventually pull the threads out of the end of a crank. IMO, the "right" way to do it is with a piece of all thread, some kind of washer, and a nut. I wasn't able to find a washer that was heavy duty enough to work, so I got a piece of 1/4 inch flat steel from Home Depot. It was a strip about 2 inches wide and 3 feet long. I cut a 3-4 inch piece off the end and drilled a 1/2 inch hole in it.

My process is start the hub as best I can by hand. Then bottom out the all thread. Next, slide the flat steel plate I made onto the all thread. Install the nut and tighten. The flat steel should press against the hub, tightening the nut should push the hub on.

This method speads the load over the maximum number of threads, and helps make sure you don't yank the threads out of the crank.

Some people heat the hub to ease installation. I've tried that and if I get the hub hot enough to make the install easier, I always end up cooking the seal and causing a leak.

Anyway, that's how I do it. Your results may vary.
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Old Feb 15, 2010 | 05:06 PM
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From: Newbury Park Ca
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Originally Posted by neat
Only screwing the crank bolt 4 turns or so can mess up the threads if the hub is tight. You need to bottom out the bolt so the threads aren't taking the linear load of the puller.

I use progressively longer bolts like you mentioned, bottoming each one out as I go.

It's a pain, no doubt.

Most people use the stock bolt, or progressively longer bolts to re-install the hub. While that works 99% of the time, if you do it enough times you will eventually pull the threads out of the end of a crank. IMO, the "right" way to do it is with a piece of all thread, some kind of washer, and a nut. I wasn't able to find a washer that was heavy duty enough to work, so I got a piece of 1/4 inch flat steel from Home Depot. It was a strip about 2 inches wide and 3 feet long. I cut a 3-4 inch piece off the end and drilled a 1/2 inch hole in it.

My process is start the hub as best I can by hand. Then bottom out the all thread. Next, slide the flat steel plate I made onto the all thread. Install the nut and tighten. The flat steel should press against the hub, tightening the nut should push the hub on.

This method speads the load over the maximum number of threads, and helps make sure you don't yank the threads out of the crank.

Some people heat the hub to ease installation. I've tried that and if I get the hub hot enough to make the install easier, I always end up cooking the seal and causing a leak.

Anyway, that's how I do it. Your results may vary.
Awesome thanks for all the help! Sorry I didn't get back sooner to you all.

So I managed to get the bolt out and took the washer off as per instructions that I found here: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...-a-92-lt1.html

It seems unless I bottom out the crankshaft bolt that I can't stop the bolt from turning as I turn the jackscrew. Not sure what to do now but I'll keep experimenting. It seems like I should just bottom out the bolt and keep turning?
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