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I am leaking oil out of the back of my intake AGAIN!!!
Has anybody tried the Right Stuff?
Car looks like the van from "Up in smoke" when I am at a red light, smoke everywhere.
I have tried black RTV and Blue RTV and it leaks after about a month or two, last time I came down wrong and slid it back into place, found out that is a big no-no.
I am leaking oil out of the back of my intake AGAIN!!!
Has anybody tried the Right Stuff?
Car looks like the van from "Up in smoke" when I am at a red light, smoke everywhere.
I have tried black RTV and Blue RTV and it leaks after about a month or two, last time I came down wrong and slid it back into place, found out that is a big no-no.
Lots of guys like The Right Stuff, but I suspect your problem is the prep.
If you'd like, you can go to the LS1LT1.com site, then the LT1 Engine Tech board and read a STICKY I posted there. It has the procedure I've used for many years which'll explain exactly how to re-seal the intake so it won't leak in the future.
I had a small leak last year. It was my fault for moving the intake some after it was set down. I had to hurry and heli-coil one intake bolt that wouldn't torque. Anyways I was able to clean the gap really good and add RTV to it. I removed the dizzy and wiped some in the gap from the inside too. It sealed up and was easier then pulling the whole intake!
Lots of guys like The Right Stuff, but I suspect your problem is the prep.
If you'd like, you can go to the LS1LT1.com site, then the LT1 Engine Tech board and read a STICKY I posted there. It has the procedure I've used for many years which'll explain exactly how to re-seal the intake so it won't leak in the future.
Let me know if I can help further.
Jake
Jake great right up on setting valve lash, but I did not see anything about sealing the intake manifold?
You may also want to check your oil pressure sending unit. These are notorious for leaking. There are actually 2 of them that sit behind the intake manifold on the drivers side. Some folks have mistaken a leaking oil pressure sender for a leaking intake.... Just a thought, as it is hard to believe that you have had so much bad luck with getting a good seal on your intake.
"The Right Stuff" is great.... In fact, so good that I would hate to have to ever go back and remove this stuff !!!
I believe the post Jake is refering to is the one he did on dimpleing the China Wall and the intake. I read this a few years ago and tried it and I have to say it worked great, I have had no problems since using his method, once you see it you will understand why it works....Thanks Jake...WW
I believe the post Jake is refering to is the one he did on dimpleing the China Wall and the intake. I read this a few years ago and tried it and I have to say it worked great, I have had no problems since using his method, once you see it you will understand why it works....Thanks Jake...WW
You're welcome.
I wanted to post it here as a STICKY/Tech Tip, but couldn't get the Tech Tips section to work. So, I posted it on a few other Forums when the Moderators asked me to.
Lots of guys like The Right Stuff, but I suspect your problem is the prep.
If you'd like, you can go to the LS1LT1.com site, then the LT1 Engine Tech board and read a STICKY I posted there. It has the procedure I've used for many years which'll explain exactly how to re-seal the intake so it won't leak in the future.
Let me know if I can help further.
Jake
I used the right stuff the last time but rtv has always worked for me
If you have a leak at the intake to block junction, you might want to attach a 0-15 PSI pressure gauge where the PCV valve goes into the rocker cover.
The breather should take care of the block venting, but if it doesn't, the sealant at the back of the block will usually blow out and give the crankcase some relief from too much pressure.
This means that the vent tube may be blocked by having some form of sludge, or other obstruction in the hose, or the hose is coming apart internally, not venting under acceleration.
If you have pressure when revving the engine with the gauge stuck in the valve cover, remove the breather hose from the manifold, and check the gauge again when revving it. If the pressure goes away, and the gauge reads zero, the hose is at fault.
OR
your engine is pinging excessively, creating large amounts of crankcase pressure, and your knock sensor may be at fault, not telling the ECM to pull back the timing.
OR
The electronic spark control module is at fault if it's a L98.
OR
there is a problem with the distributor module if it's an L98
Last edited by coupeguy2001; Feb 12, 2010 at 02:22 PM.
I believe the post Jake is refering to is the one he did on dimpleing the China Wall and the intake. I read this a few years ago and tried it and I have to say it worked great, I have had no problems since using his method, once you see it you will understand why it works....Thanks Jake...WW
I was just going to ask if he dimpled the wall.
I read through Jakes diections on how to do that as well and he did a very good write up.