I got some bad news from a mechanic today

I have 1994 corvette conv 190k on it I was just repainted last yr

Here is my story

I had a hesitation problem which ended up being a short in one of the spark plug wires going to the opti

6 months ago I had to put the car in the shop to get a rear main bearing replaced. $900.00 when I got the car back i then fixed the hesitation problem it took me about a month to find it. the car still ran bad. It then started having a loud knocking noise which I thought was a lifter I could hear the noise around the drivers side of the engine down low. Then while in park or drive I could also hear a rubbing sound from under the car it seemed like it was comming from the drive shaft but it would do it in park also so it could be that. i took it back to the shop and they told me that it didnt sound like anything related to the work they performed 6 months ago.

Well 2 weeks ago just before the snow storm some idoit (s) came though my neiborhood and took an axe busted up the front hood leaving a hole in it about the size of the average hand straight through. About 8 other cars were damaged the same day. Also damaged was the front windshield and conv top. and some audio equiptment stolen.

I called the Insurance Company and they are going to cover it.

I went out to start the car no start. I looked under the hood and seen water spots all over the engine, which is usually kept polished. I called the insurance company back and told them that I thought it was related to the vandelisum and the hole let moisture in the engine compartment and possible leak into the distributor. Well the mechanic replaced the cap and rotor spark plugs and wires and said that he couldnt find any water in the opti he is unsure what made it go out. The car now runs.

The mechanic told me that the tapping noise that is heard from the engine is not coming from the valve train but possibly coming from the drive train. He thinks its a broken flywheel or possible flywheel bolts loosened. right now for his work I owe him 1k.

I called the previous shop that put in the rear main seal and explained this to them and they told me to bring the car to them so they could check it out.

At this point I dont know if I can handle this any more the fun of the car is gone any suggestions ???

I might take it to them and tell them Im not going to pay a dime but you know if I take it to them they are going to say we have to tear down the car to find the problem and if its something else I would have to pay for it.

I have about 2k in insurance money that will pay for $700 repair front hood $580 front windshield I have to put out another $900 for a new conv top.

Is this worth it because with all that I still have the tapping and rubbing noise to deal with

Please help confused at this point

Should I just let the car go for parts.

 

Auto trans flywheels do crack. If it is cracked your major expense will be the transmission R&R.

I am puzzled as to how a single main bearing needed to be replaced. For someone to be able to diagnose a single main bearing problem borders on genius. The man missed his calling in life.

Did you mean the rear main oil seal? Replaced due to an oil leak?

The mech probably pulled the trans & flywheel to remove the oil pan & replace the bearing &/or the main seal. The noise is probably related to the previous work ie loose flywheel or torque converter bolts. Hint: Find a new mechanic.

Spending big $$ on a vehicle with 190K on the clock would be a hard decision for me. I would consider selling it as a project car & look for something that has some life left in it.

 

damn! to the OP - that's one hell of a story. hope they caught the little ax-wielding SOB!

 

Who the hell takes an axe to people's cars for fun???? I hope they catch those jerks.

 

Maybe it's time to start doing your own work on the car, and circumvent the labor charges.
If you have a jack and 4 jackstands, the trans is laborious, but certainly simple to do. In fact, you do not even have to completely remove it, just move it back.
Ask around, there has to be a corvette forum member in your area that may be able to help. at least use your phone to take pics and then print them out on your computer, so you know what it looked loike prior to removing the very first bolt.
The good news is, these cars are simply put together, just when it comes to adjustments, they are critical.
If you do the major stuff, and have your mechanic do the adjustments, you might be able to save the car, and up your confidence.

 

dump it.

 

Thank you all for what I call excellent input

Oh by the way it was a rear main seal

I will take and post some photos of the damage and will be getting back to all of you when and if it comes down to removal of the trans or engine while im on this which is easiest to remove?

by the no the idoits have not been caught.

I cant say it enough I was really feeling down yesterday and couldnt wait to get to work to see if I had any replies. As I read your replies it did give me some motivation to think about just doing the work myself.

There are many things that I have been able to do to this car brakes opti spark plugs exhaust. I have removed an automatic trans from a 1994 honda recently and that went fine but was also front wheel drive.

Will be back in a couple of days with pics.

Thanks Thanks Thanks to all of you.

 

Man, what a bummer. Corvettes are so much fun to drive, work on etc, hopefully some of us can lift your spirits a little, telling you its a pain getting there but definitely worth the effort when its all done and you did it yourself (with help from a few here on the forum who really know their stuff). I have done a c5 brake upgrade, replaced front ball joints, tie rod ends, rear wheel bearings, fuel pump, opti and water pump. The back ache and busted knuckles are all worth the effort when you cruse in that beautiful vett. DON'T give up even if you sell the thing, get another one. Wishing you all the best.

 

Thanks I did need that

Just in case I have to remove the trans does any one know of a post up on this

2nd question can this be accomplished on jack stands will it give me enough clearance?

 

A few things to check before you pull the trans back.

Check all the bolts that hold the trans case (bell housing) to the engine, they need to be tight.

Check the C beam bolts.

Remove the inspection cover & check all the converter to flex plate bolts. Inspect the flex plate for cracks as you rotate the engine to gain access to all the bolts. Rust is a good indicator of a problem area, rust will form quickly at a crack line.

Flex plates normally break near the crank shaft hub.

Good luck.

Are you located anywhere near Chattanooga? I have no plans for this weekend & could swing by to lend a hand or diagnose the problem.

 

Hey DonkeyDawn,

Since I'm not qualified, I can't really offer any technical assistance with your issues. But I can say that I really feel for you and your string of bad luck. I really hope things get turned around and that you're able to get your 'Vette back in shape and on the road again without too much more in the way of expense and aggravation.

Your car might have quite a few broken parts right now. But its' most important part, its' passionate owner, still seems to be working just fine!

Ron

 

Thanks again Im going to get the front windshield replaced today and tomorrow I will pickup the car and take some pics after that I will bring it the the 1st shop it was in a couple of months ago that did the rear main seal work. Im going to have them check over the work they did to see if the bell housing, converter and flex plate are installed properly. After that I will get the wounded vette back to the home stall were the real work will begin because of the support Im ready.

Thanks all I will be posting very soon
By the way thanks Churchkey but Im located in Frederick Maryland.

 

I must say I feel for you,
I would just die without my 84 vette, It is good to see you decided to do the work yourself, Will be much more rewarding once vette is back up & running... The people on this forum are very nice & have lots of knowledge to get you through this..

Not to mention the $$$ you will save in labor cost..

Best of luck to you...

Ant....

 

Good luck to you and your project. As previously mentioned, look elsewhere before you pull the tranny. Put the car on jackstands, (if the tranny needs to be pulled, it can be done on jackstands, I seem to do it every month), start up the car and look and listen from underneath. You should be able to locate the source of the noise since you said it happends in park. The tranny shouldn't have had to be removed to change the rear seal so I wouldn't think it is the flywheel bolts. Be careful.

 

Im about 2 hours from you. If you need a hand I could lend a hand. I've pulled LT1s and transmissions numberous times out of my 1996 vette. I have all the trick tools and tips. If you need info let me know.

 

I want to do some track days in my 86 4+3 . I dont want to burn up the OD. Can I completely disable it for my track time?

 

Hi again to everyone my bad story continues yesterday I got the car out of the shop they replaced the rotor cap and wires and ignition wires the previous hesitation problem is gone $1000.00 . So I took the Car to Statlite Glass company they quoted a price for front windshield and trim $350. I knew this couldnt be right I asked them 3 x what it included they argued that it was all included. I took the broken vette to them and when I got there they told me it would be an addition 250 dollars I went off yes it felt good)

I called their corporate office and they agreed to pay half of the misquoted price we are now looking at 650 for the replacement. But wait there is more.

I could leave the car there because it would take a week to get the trim part from local dealer. So I took the car to the first shop that did the rear main seal 6 months ago. They listened to the tapping noise and later told me it wasnt in the area of the trans it was coming from the engine.

Crank shaft bearings this is there report checked and found crankshaft bearing noise or crank damage. oil leak from crank seal no oil pressure when hot recommend new engine est $5700.00

Everyone this has been a ride I never give up but it this a dead issue

I would never pay a shop to do this I would attempt to do it my self but is it worth it. I told my wife about all the support you all have given me I will still go on but let me know if the table has now turned over

The next post should have the photos of the other damage by the idoits

 

http://corvettedamagephotos.shutterfly.com/

 

Thanks so much

I posted up the final part of the story with this car Im soaking in everything and have to make a choice

If you get a chance to read and see the photos Im open for any suggestions

I will contact you in the next couple of days to give you an update

 

DD,

WOW, sure is some heavy damage, Hood looks like its toast and doubt its repairable where it will not come back to haunt you appearance wise. If the motor has little to no oil pressure when warm, must be loose as hell inside and time for replacement or rebuild, its a time-bomb ticking so to speak.

Your choice but it almost seems like its past the point of no return with all that it needs to bring it back to its past glory.

Not meant to drag you down but you may want to rethink dumping so much $ into a car with so many miles on it already. Thing is, what is going to have to be replaced next, trans, rear, bushings, U joints, exhaust, radiator, heater core, A/C, these things could last a long time or could go right after you install new motor. You did say you had some funny noise under the car besides the tapping noise.

Its a tough call but the miles are stacked up against any real value the car might have.

Good luck and hope you catch the b@stards that took the axe to your car, would be nice to spend some "Private Time" with em, maybe parting their hair with the same frigg'in axe they used on your car wouldn't it?