RR Install Help!
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 454
Likes: 0
From: None None
RR Install Help!
Hi, Im looking into installing RR's on my basically stock L98. I have found that most people recommend using 1.6's that are self-adjusting, correct me if Im wrong. What Im asking is what is a good set to go with? Are there any other parts I need to finish the job? What is involved in the job, can it be done by a backyard mechanic? Any links to DIY threads would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks for the help!
Thanks for the help!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 9,715
Likes: 27
From: Kempner Texas
Self Aligning is what you're referring to. NON self-aligning rockers call for the addition of guide plates and hardened pushrods.
NSA rockers are more desirable in performance applications because they control the rocker arm better at the RPMs a performance engine sees.
Yes, swapping them can be done by a backyard mechanic, but to do the complete job, new springs should also be installed. Some guys skip new springs, but replacing the stock springs is the best way.
If you choose to skip the new springs, the most complicated part of the swap is in setting the lifter preload. That part confuses a lot of guys, especially when they try to follow the directions in the Chilton/Haynes manuals.
If you can read and understand directions you'll be able to do it though. I have step-by-step directions posted on LS1LT1's site, on the LT1 Tech board you can review.
Most guys use Crane Golds, CompCams Pro Magnums or Scorpion RRs. Some valve cover clearance may be needed.
Jake
NSA rockers are more desirable in performance applications because they control the rocker arm better at the RPMs a performance engine sees.
Yes, swapping them can be done by a backyard mechanic, but to do the complete job, new springs should also be installed. Some guys skip new springs, but replacing the stock springs is the best way.
If you choose to skip the new springs, the most complicated part of the swap is in setting the lifter preload. That part confuses a lot of guys, especially when they try to follow the directions in the Chilton/Haynes manuals.
If you can read and understand directions you'll be able to do it though. I have step-by-step directions posted on LS1LT1's site, on the LT1 Tech board you can review.
Most guys use Crane Golds, CompCams Pro Magnums or Scorpion RRs. Some valve cover clearance may be needed.
Jake
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 6,050
Likes: 147
From: Phoenix AZ
2021 C4 of the Year - Modified Finalist
If the word preload makes you wary, use the term "adjustment".
You are preloading the lifters so you don't have to adjust them when it's running.
Essentially, when you undo the nuts on the rockers, your adjustment is lost.
In order to readjust them so you don't have to repeatedly remove the air conditioner bolts, you preadjust them prior to returning the rocker covers to their locations. (preload)
THis also means that if you screw it up, you have to the tedious part of the job all over again.....removing and replacing rocker covers.
You are preloading the lifters so you don't have to adjust them when it's running.
Essentially, when you undo the nuts on the rockers, your adjustment is lost.
In order to readjust them so you don't have to repeatedly remove the air conditioner bolts, you preadjust them prior to returning the rocker covers to their locations. (preload)
THis also means that if you screw it up, you have to the tedious part of the job all over again.....removing and replacing rocker covers.
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 3,588
Likes: 10
From: North New Jersey
I was thinking about 1.6 RRs also, but for my stock LT1.
I have done a lot of research:
Can anyone give me some info on spring replacement? I know I should use at least LT4 springs, but is replacing the springs difficult? How do you prevent the valve from falling into the cylinder when switching out the springs? Im a little confused on whats involved in replacing the springs, the little pieces that click in (sorry for the vague terms) and what tools need to be used (special tools).
And for the roller rockers themselves: (check me on this)
Just unbolt the old ones, replace with the new RRs...
Tighten the new ones till you cannot move the pushrod up and down (or between your fingers) and this is the base adjustment or lash...
Then turn 1/2 a full turn past "0" lash, (I know this is a heated topic but what are the positives and negatives of turning more than 1/2 to lets say a whole turn???)
Oh, yeah, each valve must be in the closed position (the lowest part of the cam "off the lobe")... How many RRs can you adjust at a time?
Am I missing anything? I feel capable of doing this, but I really dont want to mess up and blow my engine! Its my daily driver!
Thanks!
I have done a lot of research:
Can anyone give me some info on spring replacement? I know I should use at least LT4 springs, but is replacing the springs difficult? How do you prevent the valve from falling into the cylinder when switching out the springs? Im a little confused on whats involved in replacing the springs, the little pieces that click in (sorry for the vague terms) and what tools need to be used (special tools).
And for the roller rockers themselves: (check me on this)
Just unbolt the old ones, replace with the new RRs...
Tighten the new ones till you cannot move the pushrod up and down (or between your fingers) and this is the base adjustment or lash...
Then turn 1/2 a full turn past "0" lash, (I know this is a heated topic but what are the positives and negatives of turning more than 1/2 to lets say a whole turn???)
Oh, yeah, each valve must be in the closed position (the lowest part of the cam "off the lobe")... How many RRs can you adjust at a time?
Am I missing anything? I feel capable of doing this, but I really dont want to mess up and blow my engine! Its my daily driver!
Thanks!
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 3,616
Likes: 5
From: Sandhills of North Carolina
I was thinking about 1.6 RRs also, but for my stock LT1.
I have done a lot of research:
Can anyone give me some info on spring replacement? I know I should use at least LT4 springs, but is replacing the springs difficult? How do you prevent the valve from falling into the cylinder when switching out the springs? Im a little confused on whats involved in replacing the springs, the little pieces that click in (sorry for the vague terms) and what tools need to be used (special tools).
And for the roller rockers themselves: (check me on this)
Just unbolt the old ones, replace with the new RRs...
Tighten the new ones till you cannot move the pushrod up and down (or between your fingers) and this is the base adjustment or lash...
Then turn 1/2 a full turn past "0" lash, (I know this is a heated topic but what are the positives and negatives of turning more than 1/2 to lets say a whole turn???)
Oh, yeah, each valve must be in the closed position (the lowest part of the cam "off the lobe")... How many RRs can you adjust at a time?
Am I missing anything? I feel capable of doing this, but I really dont want to mess up and blow my engine! Its my daily driver!
Thanks!
I have done a lot of research:
Can anyone give me some info on spring replacement? I know I should use at least LT4 springs, but is replacing the springs difficult? How do you prevent the valve from falling into the cylinder when switching out the springs? Im a little confused on whats involved in replacing the springs, the little pieces that click in (sorry for the vague terms) and what tools need to be used (special tools).
And for the roller rockers themselves: (check me on this)
Just unbolt the old ones, replace with the new RRs...
Tighten the new ones till you cannot move the pushrod up and down (or between your fingers) and this is the base adjustment or lash...
Then turn 1/2 a full turn past "0" lash, (I know this is a heated topic but what are the positives and negatives of turning more than 1/2 to lets say a whole turn???)
Oh, yeah, each valve must be in the closed position (the lowest part of the cam "off the lobe")... How many RRs can you adjust at a time?
Am I missing anything? I feel capable of doing this, but I really dont want to mess up and blow my engine! Its my daily driver!
Thanks!
To start with get a good valve spring compressor or borrow one. I like the one Moroso sells. I used the hose from a compression gauge (remove the Schrader valve) to put compressed air on whichever cylinder I was working on. That will hold the valve up fine. Of coarse you'll need a air compressor for this. Some guys use a rope crammed through the spark plug hole then turn rotate the engine so the piston compresses the rope against the valve. That will work also. I prefer the air myself.
I've tried adjusting the valves several ways. I always end up going back to the way I've always done it, with the engine running. Just seems to work better for me.
It can be done in a weekend very easily. Keep doing your home work and you'll be fine.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 5,107
Likes: 171
From: Dublin CA
Looking at your profile, you have a 1985 which should have cast iron heads, unless someone has replaced them with aluminum.
On '85 & '86 L98s it is preferred to install 1.5:1 on the exhaust and 1.6:1 on the intake to avoid rough idle. I am assuming that you still have the stock cam. If you have cast heads, you do not need self aligning RR's. You should use hardened push rods. Changing springs is recommended.
You will also have to grind off the drip tabs on the inside of your stock valve covers for the RR's to fit under the cover. Using a taller gasket will help, but they will still have to be removed. Do not try to break them off, you will break out a hole in the cover.
On an L98 you can expect to see 10-15 hp gain from RRs and you will find that your oil temp will run 5-10 degrees cooler.
On '85 & '86 L98s it is preferred to install 1.5:1 on the exhaust and 1.6:1 on the intake to avoid rough idle. I am assuming that you still have the stock cam. If you have cast heads, you do not need self aligning RR's. You should use hardened push rods. Changing springs is recommended.
You will also have to grind off the drip tabs on the inside of your stock valve covers for the RR's to fit under the cover. Using a taller gasket will help, but they will still have to be removed. Do not try to break them off, you will break out a hole in the cover.
On an L98 you can expect to see 10-15 hp gain from RRs and you will find that your oil temp will run 5-10 degrees cooler.
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Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 3,588
Likes: 10
From: North New Jersey
! I feel the same way.. I could picture it now:"Dad, check it out, Im about to start her up for the first time with my new 1.6 roller rockers!!!"
Crank, start, "see I told you I could do it!" metal on metal destruction, clunk, bamb bang!!!!
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 3,616
Likes: 5
From: Sandhills of North Carolina
I think he means from improper install! I feel the same way.. I could picture it now:
"Dad, check it out, Im about to start her up for the first time with my new 1.6 roller rockers!!!"
Crank, start, "see I told you I could do it!" metal on metal destruction, clunk, bamb bang!!!!
! I feel the same way.. I could picture it now:"Dad, check it out, Im about to start her up for the first time with my new 1.6 roller rockers!!!"
Crank, start, "see I told you I could do it!" metal on metal destruction, clunk, bamb bang!!!!
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 3,616
Likes: 5
From: Sandhills of North Carolina
I'll help you get started. In the link below look at post #7. Rick Reeves was nice enough to give me a parts list of everything I needed to do the rr change over.
When and if you start this process, get a bunch of gallon ziplock bags and put you small bolts nuts anything that will fit in one and label it so you will know where it goes back. It's also useful to snap a few photos along the way in case you forget where things go like vacuum hoses, injectors wires, that sort of thing.
By all means take yor time. If you're working on a daily driver be prepared to rent or borrow a car for a couple of days if that's what it takes. I can personally guarantee you that if you get in a rush you're going to mess up.
Have fun and good luck!
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...arts-list.html
Edit....
You don't really need those springs unless you're planning a cm later on. LT4 springs will work just fine. About 50.00
When and if you start this process, get a bunch of gallon ziplock bags and put you small bolts nuts anything that will fit in one and label it so you will know where it goes back. It's also useful to snap a few photos along the way in case you forget where things go like vacuum hoses, injectors wires, that sort of thing.
By all means take yor time. If you're working on a daily driver be prepared to rent or borrow a car for a couple of days if that's what it takes. I can personally guarantee you that if you get in a rush you're going to mess up.
Have fun and good luck!
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...arts-list.html
Edit....
You don't really need those springs unless you're planning a cm later on. LT4 springs will work just fine. About 50.00
Last edited by Weav's Vet; Feb 23, 2010 at 07:30 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 3,588
Likes: 10
From: North New Jersey
I'll help you get started. In the link below look at post #7. Rick Reeves was nice enough to give me a parts list of everything I needed to do the rr change over.
When and if you start this process, get a bunch of gallon ziplock bags and put you small bolts nuts anything that will fit in one and label it so you will know where it goes back. It's also useful to snap a few photos along the way in case you forget where things go like vacuum hoses, injectors wires, that sort of thing.
By all means take yor time. If you're working on a daily driver be prepared to rent or borrow a car for a couple of days if that's what it takes. I can personally guarantee you that if you get in a rush you're going to mess up.
Have fun and good luck!
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...arts-list.html
When and if you start this process, get a bunch of gallon ziplock bags and put you small bolts nuts anything that will fit in one and label it so you will know where it goes back. It's also useful to snap a few photos along the way in case you forget where things go like vacuum hoses, injectors wires, that sort of thing.
By all means take yor time. If you're working on a daily driver be prepared to rent or borrow a car for a couple of days if that's what it takes. I can personally guarantee you that if you get in a rush you're going to mess up.
Have fun and good luck!
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...arts-list.html
Thanks, if anything I will try once school is over in May so then I can take my sweet time (Ill ride my bike to work if necessary
)... I have to look but is there really that much disassembly to get the valve covers off?