C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Uneven caster cause pull under braking?

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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 05:28 PM
  #21  
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Thats why I have two places I can take mine. One is a chevy dealer, the mecahnic took hours to get it right. There is also a small shop that caters to high end cars and race car setups. They also took hours. Each of these places took the time to explain everything they did and how they got it setup.

Thanks for reminding me I need to make an appointment with the chevy dealer to have it aligned again.
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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 08:00 PM
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if we're taking bets,i think one of the rubber flex lines is bad internally ,either the lh front or the lh rear.
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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by miker2
if we're taking bets,i think one of the rubber flex lines is bad internally ,either the lh front or the lh rear.
Although the FSM doesn't give it the coveted XXX rating; you may be correct it seems like it's a common occurance (by the number of threads I've seen over the last couple of years)
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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 10:10 PM
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Don't forget,Vettes have Huge Wheels/Tires,and tighter,faster steering ratios compared to most everyday DD cars out there...They are going to be more sensitive to alignment or brake problems,road problems, than cars with smaller wheels and tires.
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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 11:31 PM
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Thanks for all the info guys. I checked the tire pressure all around and tried some different configurations with the wheels. Still pulling. I'll start looking at the brakes. Car has braided brake lines that are only a few years old. What is the best way to check the lines for improper flow or obstruction? Additionally when looking to the calipers, are their signs that point to a sticking caliper/ piston if I pull it apart? The master cylinder in the car was empty for several months when the ball joints/ bushings were being replaced. Could this play into it? Does the master need to be bench bled if it has been empty for a long time?
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Old Mar 1, 2010 | 06:50 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by LT1CORVETTE
Thanks for all the info guys. I checked the tire pressure all around and tried some different configurations with the wheels. Still pulling. I'll start looking at the brakes. Car has braided brake lines that are only a few years old. What is the best way to check the lines for improper flow or obstruction? Additionally when looking to the calipers, are their signs that point to a sticking caliper/ piston if I pull it apart? The master cylinder in the car was empty for several months when the ball joints/ bushings were being replaced. Could this play into it? Does the master need to be bench bled if it has been empty for a long time?
If you have "newish" brake lines they are probably not your problem. To check your brakes: After a drive walk to each wheel and place the back off your hand near each brake to see is one is noticibly hotter than the others,...or is one still at ambient temp. Remove the wheels and check pad and rotor wear to see if anything abnormal.

However, its been stated and restated; alignment, worn suspension components, ball joints etc can cause your simptoms...look at Jakes' list and start eliminating the usual suspects.


Mike

Last edited by aboatguy; Mar 1, 2010 at 06:56 AM.
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Old Mar 1, 2010 | 08:47 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by aboatguy
If you have "newish" brake lines they are probably not your problem. To check your brakes: After a drive walk to each wheel and place the back off your hand near each brake to see is one is noticibly hotter than the others,...or is one still at ambient temp. Remove the wheels and check pad and rotor wear to see if anything abnormal.

Mike
If you touch the rotor, lick your finger and listen for a sizzle; don't use temperature. You'll burn it before you feel the heat!
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Old Mar 1, 2010 | 01:33 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by mashinter
If you touch the rotor, lick your finger and listen for a sizzle; don't use temperature. You'll burn it before you feel the heat!
I concur touching a hot rotor can cause burns.......

Usually the back of a hand is sensitive to temperature and will feel HEAT without touching ........Which is why I suggested back of hand method....personally I use a Snap on IR thermometer....but I'm a Snap On junky...



Mike

Last edited by aboatguy; Mar 1, 2010 at 01:37 PM.
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Old Mar 1, 2010 | 04:54 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by aboatguy
I concur touching a hot rotor can cause burns.......

Usually the back of a hand is sensitive to temperature and will feel HEAT without touching ........Which is why I suggested back of hand method....personally I use a Snap on IR thermometer....but I'm a Snap On junky...



Mike
Mike:

I was out on the road (1992?) and checked the rotors through the wheel. I don't think I could get the back of my hand in there, just the finger tip. One rotor was cool, but the other was very hot due to a sticking caliper. My finger healed up just fine.

An IR gun is on my wish list, along with an LED trouble light (but that's another story).

Bill
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