My plug wire budget is $50-60 and I want red wires/90* boots in a universal kit so I can custom fit them, total of $100 for wires, cap, rotor, and looms. I found these on eBay and was wondering if anybody has used them. Ive never heard of ProComp but I would imagine they are made overseas because of the price. Last couple of sets I bought were Taylor and they were good wires for the money.

Any thoughts on stainless steel braided vs. graphite core ones?

Thanks!
Steve H.

 

i would pass on this ones,buy a well known brand msd or accel instead

 

MSD and Accel are WAY over-priced IMO and ProComp is a well-known brand. But, ProComp is well-known as a budget brand,,,one that has some controversy in some areas. For example, their distributors had a high failure rate (due to their bearning assm). OTOH, their heads have mixed reviews because their has been some failures -- though some are very happy with the price/performance aspect. I strongly suspect this company is making parts for other well-known brands too.

For something as inoccuous as a plug wire, I was willing to take a chance on them. FWIW, you can buy two sets of theirs for one of the MSD/Accel brand. With headers, that might be a good thing.

I bought a set of their honkin' 10mm wires. Won't know how they work for another couple of weeks.

 

Yeah Ive seen some Moroso's just like these for more. I kinda feel like the name costs you some, alot more with others. Probly do come from the same plant with different names printed on them.

And I liked the price on the 10mm too
Thanks, Gregg

 

Although some could argue the opposite. I can't speak for the ProComps, but my Superconductors have stood up well to Hooker long tubes for 6+ years. So for me it was easily worth the extra bucks.

 

Spark plug wires are a "joke" part for some popular performance manufacurers - there are cheating ways to claim superior performance when the opposite is being delivered. Some of the tricks used by budget "performance" ignition wires result in you needing to replace them on a regular basis - or suffer with a performance loss. I suggest spending a bit more and going with the pre-fabbed Taylor/Vertex wire set. I went with their 10.4mm Pro Race 409 wireset 79233 (red) or 79633 (blue) for superior insulation, they have been on my car for a decade with no performance or header issues. http://www.taylorvertex.com/Products.../proRaceCustom

Thomas

 

Did this set come pre assembled? So where I do not have to cut the wires and put the ends on it? I bought an accel set off of jegs where they said it was custom fit for my application and when I got them they were the ones with the "build your own end" connections on it. I wanted to stab Mr. Jeggs in the eye. Id rather pay more then have to put those damn ends on it!

 

I am opposite of this, I want to do the ends so the wires are exactly the length I want. It isnt too hard to put the boots on and crimp the connectors. They are usually long enough to give me the option of how I want to run the wires and what kind of looms to use. The PO used zip ties and bunched them all up together to whatever was close.

I think the wires are a big part of making the engine bay pop. With the colors available, you can make them look great. Or you never open the hood and show off what you have.

 

What ways? Where did you learn this? Any chance it was from the company wanting you to spend more?

 

I am opposite of this, I want to do the ends so the wires are exactly the length I want. It isnt too hard to put the boots on and crimp the connectors. They are usually long enough to give me the option of how I want to run the wires and what kind of looms to use. The PO used zip ties and bunched them all up together to whatever was close.

I think the wires are a big part of making the engine bay pop. With the colors available, you can make them look great. Or you never open the hood and show off what you have.

 

I just don't have the paticence to sit there and do those ends, hence why I have a brand new set of red accel's sitting still in the box. And my ride sorely needs some new wires, ive got 7 yellow taylor wires and 1 black unknown wire since one of the taylors melted on the manifold.

 

I just don't have the paticence to sit there and do those ends, hence why I have a brand new set of red accel's sitting still in the box. And my ride sorely needs some new wires, ive got 7 yellow taylor wires and 1 black unknown wire since one of the taylors melted on the manifold.

 

Unless they have changed from when I bought mine, I remember the Taylor 409 wireset as being pre-assembled and ready to be installed right out of the box. You can always contact Tayor at the link I provided. Their Corvette LT1 wireset fits beautifully, but you cannot reuse the factory wire guides. I've made a number of custom fitted wiresets for other hot rods, and the Taylor Corvette 409 wires fit like they were hand trimmed for a show - although I did route them slightly differently than the factory 7mm wires. I'm pretty sure that I routed the wires under the brackets on the driver's side rather than behind like the originals.

For anyone who wants to compare the different popular ignition wires: get a sample section of each of the brands you are considering. Carefully cut off and remove the insulation until you get down to the core/wire. Then making sure each of your samples is the same length (at least 3 or 4 inches long). Unwind the spiral wound wire over the core. Compare the lengths of the unwound spiral wire.

One of the "tests" that is used to sell ignition wires is how low an ohms resistance there is for each foot of wire. What they don't tell you is that by having fewer spiral windings per inch will make it test better - but there is no way your common volt/ohm meter will push the same amount of electricity through the wire during the "test" that your ignition system will.

There are also different grades of silicone that can be used for the insulation. This is harder to test. The only thing I can say here is that the cheaper grades feel more like plastic.

One of the tests you must do after you install a new ignition wireset: roll your car into a garage at night when it is TOTALLY dark, start it up, open the hood, shut off all garage lights, roll down your garage door if needed to block off any street lights etc. Allow your eyes to adjust to the darkness, then carefully stare at the idling engine, specifically at the ignition wires, bring a low powered dim flashlight - leave it off, if you can see any blue glowing around any of the wires use the low powered flashlight to identify the wires. With many wiresets you will definitely see a blue glow on the outside of the wires - this is electrical leakage. This is also why you will want the better insulated wires like the 10.4mm Taylor 409, or the Magnacor R-100.

Really, for the level of performance of most street cars just about any ignition wires will "work" - its when you push harder with nitrous, forced induction, or a serious n/a engine that the payoff from high quality wires comes in.

Thomas

 

I went ahead and bought some kevlar core 8.5's that are made in the US. Waiting on the heat shield boots to end. Why does it cost $40-50 for woven fiberglass?? Is there some kind of secret technology to em?

 

In the market... good thread.

 

Yep.
I've used Taylors for many years. I've installed the LT1 set on 4 cars and it does fit beautifully.
The SpiroPro set (8mm) is $62.
The 8mm is the largest size that will fit the standard looms and is what I install on DDs with occsional track use.
I also use them (8mm) on the racecars but these cars don't see the heat that the Vettes do. A 5 yearold set on the racecar still ohms out like new.

The Taylors on my C4 are 4 years old and look like new ones.