On a 415 L98 one tube of TPiS non-coated long-tubes developed a pin hole leak at the top of #5 right where it turns to go down coming out of the head. T

That effected idle and was immediately noticeable. Couldn't be heard, but the idle quality went south noticeably. JUST a pin-hole, too!Headers had less than 10,000 miles on them.

Easily repaired though; just wanted you to know.

Jake

 

It did it before longtubes too

 

I've got an exhaust leak coming from the cylinder 3 port where the gasket, header, and head touches. Should I tighten the middle bolts more?

 

In my experience, it's the equal, gradual tightening of bolts that lead to a good seal with no leak. Same principle as when torquing head bolts, intake manifold bolts, etc.,; tighten them all in sequence and gradually to apply equal clamping.

Tightening in other methods can often warp the sealing surfaces. So, no, I wouldn't just tighten the center bolts more. I'd go over all of them and work from the center out to the ends a little at a time.

Make sure the headers aren't being held or restricted by the rest of the exhaust system. You don't want to be trying to tighten them in place while the rest of the exhaust is applying an opposite force - essentially fighting against your efforts. It would be best for the headers to be completely disconnected from the remainder of the exhaust system; everything down-stream. Then, once the headers are tightened in place, the rest of the exhaust system bolted to them.

Best results would probably be attained using high quality, new gaskets too. Fresh surfaces all around. Pay close attention to the amount of torque being applied - No gorilla tightening. 30 ft lbs is all it should take, especially since you're probably torquing into aluminum.

Just how I attack the issue.

Jake

 

Lol, well seeing that the exhaust is now welded to the headers, I don't think manuvering them around is going to work lolol

 

Oh, well . . .

Jake

 

What would you recommend with that being said?

 

Muffler shop where they have stand supports to take the weight off the headers as they're tightened.

Jake

 

The exhaust system is welded to your headers? What happens if you have to do maintenance to your drivetrain?

 

Guess I'm SOL lol

 

Yep, hence my statement 'Oh, Well . . ." Remember?

Jake

 

Couldnt you get it chopped and have a coupler welded on? Your gonna need to take the exhaust off anyhow...

 

Yeah I thought about that, and I probably should do that

 

A good exhaust shop should have recommended a coupler somewhere in the middle. Maybe even two.

 

I guess I could/should just order 4 3" 3 hole couplers

 

I am thinking of tpis and just read your thread. I know if is a bit old but how have they been holding up?

I want to use tpis because of the ability to use the alternator bracket. I do not think any of the hooker products allows you to do this. Correct??