Ceramic coating...worth the money?
Former Vendor
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 130
Likes: 0
From: North Carolina, Oklahoma, and Arizona
I while back I was given an estimate by Jet-Hot via their site to recoat a set of Hooker 2151's. The price was more than what the headers cost me new already ceramic coated (not cheap) and there was still shipping to and from. On 2151's the ceramic option (2151-1) was only about $100 more when I bought them from Summit, definately not $400. I could hold my hand directly on the header just shortly after driving the car for any amount of time, and it would just be a little warm. Didn't even need a starter heat shield.
After 8 years, I now have them sitting here completely cleaned up. I blasted them clean in a blasting cabinet, then hot tank, and are now ready to recoat.
Since I already have access to a compressor and several air brushes, and I can have my cousin bake them at work, I'm considering this inexpensive DIY ceramic kit made by Tech Line Coatings that Eastwood carries for under $50:
http://www.techlinecoatings.com/Exhaust.htm
So why am I having to redo them you ask. When I first got the car I had no choice but to constantly drive it in the rain since it was my only car at the time. Water remains trapped in the nooks between the primary tubes at the collector, allowing rust to begin in this area after years of this. The rest of the headers where still fine, but I wanted to correct this before the rust ate through the pipes.
After 8 years, I now have them sitting here completely cleaned up. I blasted them clean in a blasting cabinet, then hot tank, and are now ready to recoat.
Since I already have access to a compressor and several air brushes, and I can have my cousin bake them at work, I'm considering this inexpensive DIY ceramic kit made by Tech Line Coatings that Eastwood carries for under $50:
http://www.techlinecoatings.com/Exhaust.htm
So why am I having to redo them you ask. When I first got the car I had no choice but to constantly drive it in the rain since it was my only car at the time. Water remains trapped in the nooks between the primary tubes at the collector, allowing rust to begin in this area after years of this. The rest of the headers where still fine, but I wanted to correct this before the rust ate through the pipes.
We do our best to price things out correct on the email quotes but dont always have the proper information to quote it as it should be.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 12,221
Likes: 446
From: Overland Park Kansas
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (appearance mods)
C4 of Year Winner (appearance mods) 2019
There is no direct yes or no answer to your questions. To be honest we never recommend a break in or a dyno test/tune with coated headers as you have a lot of margin for error. IF you have no other choice then I recommend doing your homework on the engine set up to make sure that you are as close to perfect as you can get with the tune. Watch the headers close as you begin the break in. IF you even see a hint of red glow shut her down in a hurry! The worse that can happen is you smoke the coating right off the headers, the other possible issue is a flat gray dull look as the metallic in the coating is cooked out, or nothing at all and they still look perfect.
I have done many builds and gone both ways. I have had 50/50 luck with mine but it’s always something I didn’t set right or looked over when doing the build. My issue is always running fat on the start up and I suffer the after burn in the headers, or my timing is a hair off.
I have done many builds and gone both ways. I have had 50/50 luck with mine but it’s always something I didn’t set right or looked over when doing the build. My issue is always running fat on the start up and I suffer the after burn in the headers, or my timing is a hair off.
Former Vendor
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 130
Likes: 0
From: North Carolina, Oklahoma, and Arizona
No tuners that I could direct you too but again its a 50/50 chance in doing it. Like I said I have done it a number of times with no issues and have done it others and had issues. I have done this a few times and its worked out great... IF you are using a tuner then make sure they use at least two LARGE fans to cool the engine bay... If you are not doing the break in with a tuner then I pick up two or three cheap box fans from Wal-Mart and prop them up with the hood. Crank them on high two in the bay and one at the front bumper and it will move heat out like a dream. Just a thought
Thanks,
Kevin
