No AC
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 407
Likes: 0
From: Alma AR
No AC
I have a 1990 coupe. Originally the car used R-12 in the AC system, but I developed a leak a while back and unbeknown to me the guy that worked on the car changed the system over to R134a. He's since gone out of business and I can't find him. And he called himself Honest Engine!
Today it was warm enough for the AC to come on and when it did there was only hot air. Can I use an off the shelf leak detector and recharge kit to locate the leak? What about compressor oil check? And finally, if the system has been out of R134a all winter what more should I do to make sure the system operates when I do fix the leak? Thanks for any help you guys can provide.
Paul
Today it was warm enough for the AC to come on and when it did there was only hot air. Can I use an off the shelf leak detector and recharge kit to locate the leak? What about compressor oil check? And finally, if the system has been out of R134a all winter what more should I do to make sure the system operates when I do fix the leak? Thanks for any help you guys can provide.
Paul
Racer
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 456
Likes: 0
From: FL
I used some interesting leak detecting system, only for converted or not converted R12 AC.
I drilled air chuck bigger and pumped air in AC. Check leaks with dishwasher detergent. Keep in mind that when you pump air you also pump moisture, so keep air in only for diagnosing (5-10 min) and then pump vacuum for 30 min.
You can even start AC with air but only for a minute or two because high line pressure goes up really fast.
I drilled air chuck bigger and pumped air in AC. Check leaks with dishwasher detergent. Keep in mind that when you pump air you also pump moisture, so keep air in only for diagnosing (5-10 min) and then pump vacuum for 30 min.
You can even start AC with air but only for a minute or two because high line pressure goes up really fast.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 7,839
Likes: 22
From: San Diego, Ca
Poop Boys advertises a $29 Performance or a/c Tuneup special which is essentially a once over with an electronic sniffer. That's the best way to find a leak - particularly an Evaporator leak since you can't see it. OR try a shop - a lot are free because the Big Bucks are in replacing all the components that need to be replaced - and they want that business. Before you go, check for oil on the hood above the Compressor - shaft seal; or if you ever had any foam bits blowing out the Vents, that's usually the Evaporator. As to oil, it started with 8 ozs and there's no way to tell what's in it now. However, when you replace what's leaking, you'll also replace the Accumulator/Dryer. Put at least 3 or 4 ozs of compatible oil in a new one.
