I am replacing my water pump and opti as i write this was just curious on a few things.

I was wondering if anyone has the torque specs for the water pump. I do have a 93 service manual but it tells me to refer to the 92 service manual for the R+R of the water pump/opti. go figure??

I also need the torque specs for the hub/balancer. I am in the process of taking it off to remove the opti and was wondering if you have to torque the bolts to any certain spec.

also it seems to be a pain in the but to scrape off the waterpump gasket(on the engine side). It is just kinda hard to get at. was wondering what people do??

thanks for the help.

My 94 Helms has the following, should be the same for your 92 :
ECT Sensor 17lb.ft
Waterpump Bolts 30lb.ft
Crankshaft Hub Bolts 75lb.ft
Crankshaft Balancer Bolts/Screws 60lb.ft
Distributor Bolts 8lb.ft

Anybody like to recheck these figures, thanks :)



[Modified by Dualnic, 3:18 AM 3/13/2002]

this might be helpful to ya:
http://www.gulicks.com/vette/projects/opti/index.html

I'm still working on the page, but I have done this before, let me know if you need some help.

You might already have the new water pump, but I try to recommend an electric water pump to everybody who has to replace one.

They cost around $200, but that's not much more than a factory pump, lasts just as long, cools just as well, and doesn't puke on the opti when it dies. Also be eliminating the water pump drive gear you can use a double roller timing chain or a timing gear set. Oh they also put around 8 to 10 horsepower straight to the rear wheels as you eliminate the drag caused by the factory one.

If you're interested at all let me know, I can tell you all about it.

I fought with mine long and hard on this as well. I ended up taking the tensioner completely off and loosening (not removed) the alernator braketry completely from that side of the engine. The last thing I wanted after all that work was another coolant leak. Then I used an xacto knife to cut that stuff off, paint scraper, screwdriver....wifes favorite kitchen tool...etc. You get the idea. Semi-PITA. :seeya

thanks for the torque specs. greatly appreciated.

Thanks for all the input everybody.

Ryu

I used a new gasket on the passenger side after removing the ripped one with a dremel w/wire brush. The drivers side was in perfect shape and it just looked awful to get at, so I used RTV on the pump side and reinstalled. No problems yet. If it had been torn or damaged of course, that would mean removal.

Nathan,
Where did you buy the electric pump? I would like to do this.
Thanks


[Modified by cerby, 12:58 PM 3/13/2002]

I got the heavy duty unit from http://www.internetracerssupply.com You might talk to Speed Demon Motorsports, they are a supporting vendor and sometimes he can get them cheaper.

I just patiently scrape it with a razor blade. It's definitely not the most accessible thing, but it's not too bad (not as bad as changing spark plug #8 :cry ).

How does the install of the electric keep it from puking all over the opti when it dies?

Also interested in hearing more about the timing chain or gears.

The electric waterpump doesn't have a weep hole like the gear driven ones.

The gear driven pumps require use of a stock timing chain set. By going with the electric, it doesn't matter what gear set you use, so you can use anything you want (pretty much).

:yesnod: That pretty much sums it up.

Where's the weep hole? Isn't it in the waterpump casting? The electric just replaces the plate on the front. Doesn't it?

You are smart to use the correct torque specs. Good sense. The best and easiest way to remove the gasket material from the pump and the fron of the block is to use a right angle die grinder with a 3M green or yellow "Rollock Bristle Brush". I guarantee you once you've used this you will be astounded how fast and easy your life has become. Good luck

AXER911