85 oil pan gasket
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85 oil pan gasket
When I changed the timing chain last fall, I loosened the oil pan to drop it down enough to install the timing chain cover. I didn't have an oil leak at the rear of the engine before, but now I do. I did loosen the oil pan studs at the rear of the block and obviously disturbed the gasket in that area. I've read since then that loosening the oil pan studs at the rear of the engine is not necessary. Currently have the 4-piece oil pan gasket in there.
I searched and read the archives - clearly, the one-piece felpro oil pan gasket is the way to go. I've wondered about how one goes about getting the one-piece gasket in place without removing the oil pan completely. Oil pump sump/screen, crank counterweights, and connecting rod end caps will be hanging pretty low into the oil pan.
Question: Is it possible to install the one-piece oil pan gasket by slipping it over/around the outside of the oil pan and up into place?
I searched and read the archives - clearly, the one-piece felpro oil pan gasket is the way to go. I've wondered about how one goes about getting the one-piece gasket in place without removing the oil pan completely. Oil pump sump/screen, crank counterweights, and connecting rod end caps will be hanging pretty low into the oil pan.
Question: Is it possible to install the one-piece oil pan gasket by slipping it over/around the outside of the oil pan and up into place?
Le Mans Master
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From: Hellinois
Finalist 2020 C4 of the Year - Modified
Dan, you should be able to remove the pan completely, the only thing you might need to do is rotate the engine for rod clearance. I've taken mine out before that way.
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i installed a fel-pro one piece pan gasket on my 85, and i don't see that it would be any easier, if at all possible, to do it without removing the pan. i don't remember exactly, but i'm thinking at the corners of the front and rear mains, and the timing chain cover, you need to squirt a dab of silicon gasket sealer. in order to do that, you need to clean the area with some solvent to remove any traces of oil. seems to me it would be kind of hard with the oil pan hanging in the way. my best suggestion is to remove the pan. one other note, pay close attention to the location of all the bolts, studs, nuts, brackets, etc, that attach the pan to the block. there are about 20 or so pieces, and they go in specific locations. some of those brackets, secure a wiring harness, and shields for the starter, and a sensor or two (memory's a little fuzzy here), and all those pieces/parts can be a little confusing to re-install. good luck - fel-pro, one-piece is the way to go! on my 85, its been two years, and it's still bone dry!!!
Last edited by Joe C; Apr 2, 2010 at 06:19 AM.
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i think what he's saying is at the four corners of the pan there are studs in the block (w/ nuts). i'm thinking i didn't have to remove the studs at those locations. there other screw in studs that fasten brackets to the pan - those come out as part of the pan removal. 
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: NORTHEAST
We have had a lot of calls about the Felpro one piece seal gasket spliting and cracking and causing leaks.
Here is a goos link to look over
http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=21117
Here is a goos link to look over
http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=21117
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 5,866
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From: Hellinois
Finalist 2020 C4 of the Year - Modified
Joe C gave better, more detailed info than me and he is right on all counts. The studs in front can stay in on an L98 but on an LT-1 they have to come out. ???
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From: North Bay Ontario
Thread Starter
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From: North Bay Ontario
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From: North Bay Ontario
makes sense to me now....
Le Mans Master
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From: Hellinois
Finalist 2020 C4 of the Year - Modified
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Thanks for the input on my original question. Since the engine doesn't have to come off it's mounts to remove the oil pan, then I will change the oil pan gasket by removing the pan first and cleaning everything up. On a closing note...I came to the conclusion that I have to go back in and recheck the timing chain because I realized over the winter that I didn't check for clearance between the cam gear/chain and the block when I installed the double roller chain. I need to go back in and check for clearance and possibly do a little grinding...
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2004
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From: Hellinois
Finalist 2020 C4 of the Year - Modified
Thanks for the input on my original question. Since the engine doesn't have to come off it's mounts to remove the oil pan, then I will change the oil pan gasket by removing the pan first and cleaning everything up. On a closing note...I came to the conclusion that I have to go back in and recheck the timing chain because I realized over the winter that I didn't check for clearance between the cam gear/chain and the block when I installed the double roller chain. I need to go back in and check for clearance and possibly do a little grinding...
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I started another thread on CF a while ago about the clearance issue. Pete K's perspective was the same as your's Chuck - that if there was clearance issue, it would be resolved pretty quickly by the new chain. Trouble is, I'm not that comfortable with my new timing chain being introduced to the job as a *grinder*! 
Granted - the pins on the timing chain are much harder metal than the block casting... I changed the oil shortly after the new install (last fall before putting the car away for the winter) and I thought I could see metal filings in the oil. I have a big ole magnet stuck on the bottom of the oil pan that I remove while the oil is draining. I wasn't sure if I would have been able to hear it grinding when I first started it. I have been driving it around town since taking the car out this spring - but I know, I have to go in and check it out to be certain. What bugs me is I already had read about the possible clearance issues and I forgot to check before I re-assembled!
Granted - the pins on the timing chain are much harder metal than the block casting... I changed the oil shortly after the new install (last fall before putting the car away for the winter) and I thought I could see metal filings in the oil. I have a big ole magnet stuck on the bottom of the oil pan that I remove while the oil is draining. I wasn't sure if I would have been able to hear it grinding when I first started it. I have been driving it around town since taking the car out this spring - but I know, I have to go in and check it out to be certain. What bugs me is I already had read about the possible clearance issues and I forgot to check before I re-assembled!
Last edited by pletzvet; Apr 4, 2010 at 10:44 PM.
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Update: new cam sprocket and timing chain clearance
Over the last couple of days, I re-opened the timing chain cover and went looking for what I should have checked when I replaced the timing chain last fall. Neither the cam sprocket nor the timing chain were touching the block - but they were close...I'd say I had about 50-75 thousandths of an inch clearance. Just to be safe, I pulled the cam sprocket off and took a little more metal out giving me about 3/16th of an inch now.
Installed a new one-piece oil pan gasket while I was into the job. A little trick that I used to hold the oil pan gasket in place while getting the pan up there...I stripped the paper off of a few twist-ties (the kind that usually come with your box of garbage bags) and used about 4 on each side to hold the pan gasket in place on the oil pan. The wire is small enough to let the studs pass through the holes and then it can be easily untwisted and pulled out of the oil pan hole before tightening the stud.
Installed a new one-piece oil pan gasket while I was into the job. A little trick that I used to hold the oil pan gasket in place while getting the pan up there...I stripped the paper off of a few twist-ties (the kind that usually come with your box of garbage bags) and used about 4 on each side to hold the pan gasket in place on the oil pan. The wire is small enough to let the studs pass through the holes and then it can be easily untwisted and pulled out of the oil pan hole before tightening the stud.
Last edited by pletzvet; Apr 17, 2010 at 12:37 AM.
