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I have a stock LT4. Eventually, I plan on going w/ a HotCam, electric water pump, port match intake & heads, & go with long tubes. Money (lack of)is stopping me from doing everything at once. What would be the best order for the mods?
I have a stock LT4. Eventually, I plan on going w/ a HotCam, electric water pump, port match intake & heads, & go with long tubes. Money (lack of)is stopping me from doing everything at once. What would be the best order for the mods?
Well its not on your list, but my first choice would be Gears. But from your list, one at a time would be, Hot Cam, Long Tube headers, Electric Water Pump, Port match heads and intake. (I hear there is little to gain from port matching, you really need to have bowl work done as well.)
I am working up to more but here is the order I did mine.
1) !CAGS
2) K&N with Cut Lid
3) Shift Light - Damn tach is not very accurate
4) Hurst Shifter - This makes shifting a pleasure instead of a rowboat
5) Corsas - Now sounds like a Corvette
6) 180 Thermostat - this weekend
7) Throttle Body Bypass - this weekend.
If you do the work yourself then you can do it in stages. But if you pay for labor you are going to be paying A LOT more than if you do it all at once. I would at least recommend that you do heads/cam at one time. You can do headers and the water pump later, but if you do the cam the water pump is right there so again it would just be easier on you and/or your wallet to save up and do it all in one shot.
Remember that an engine is basically an air pump. Air pumped through the engine makes power. To increase power simply increase airflow. Now you have to know how to incorporate this into your modification plan. To gain the most hp per increment simply remove the most restriction parts first. This is accomplished from working your way from the outside in.
1. Open air lid & K&N air filter, TB Bypass, 160 thermostat
1a. Remove MAF screen. This will be debated. Some claim it helps, others don't.
2. Cat-back
3. Full length headers, remove cats
4. Larger TB
5. Heads, cam, intake, ECM program
6. Stroker crank
This is the order most people should follow. It is incrementally the best way to mod your engine, as well as making sure you get the most benefit from every single mod. Also, information is key. Get lots of it on what parts are the best for your use. Magazine HP does not equal RWHP. I have a friend with a 401 ci 490 rwhp LT1 that ran a stock MAF sensor with the screens removed. He nearly tried to shoot me when I suggested getting an aftermarket unit ofr my stock block LT1.
Things like electric water pump will be a lot easier with planning. If you are going to pull the engine to do a cam, then go ahead and do the water pump then. This is how to save money on installation.
Remember that an engine is basically an air pump. Air pumped through the engine makes power. To increase power simply increase airflow. Now you have to know how to incorporate this into your modification plan. To gain the most hp per increment simply remove the most restriction parts first. This is accomplished from working your way from the outside in.
Here's my take on it, I'm in a similar situation so I should be able to relate.
I did the cam and electric water pump at the same time. Then I did headers, I plan on doing heads next.
The fact of the matter is that if you are going to do heads, it is not that much trouble to get them off, while getting to the cam is more difficult. If you are ever going to do an electric water pump, you will want to eliminate the drive gear for it, or you have a potential oil leak. This is best done while you are into it for the cam, because none of the other mods require you to take the timing chain cover off. AND, since you have the timing cover off anyway now would be a real good time to replace the timing set. Why go with a cheap stock set when you can for the same price get a good double roller setup or a gear drive?
Do the cam, water pump, and timing set in one step. Headers are very easy to do later, it takes longer to get the stock manifolds out of the way than it does to install the headers, they bolt right in. Heads are more involved, but certainly not that difficult. All you will have to do in this case is remove the intake twice, but that is no big deal at all.
Yes it would be best to do it all at once, but if you can't afford to, like me, I would suggest you do as I have done. I make 336 hp and 345 pounds of torque to the ground with stock heads. That's fun to drive, I cannot wait for heads, and that's what I'm saving for. IMHO I'm glad I've done it in the order I have because I've been able to enjoy some extra power WHILE I save for more extra power. It's also easier to relearn the car if you do it in steps. If you go from 270 hp to pushing 400, that's hard to re-learn. In my case I went from 270 - 313 - 336. Torque has increased along those same lines. The gradual power increase is much easier to deal with. Unless of course you are used to driving a beast.