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Advice on Torque Converter

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Old Apr 5, 2010 | 08:57 PM
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Default Advice on Torque Converter

94 auto and I just finished putting in a D44 w/3.54's, bushings, bearings, universal's, etc.

I thought I fixed the leak on the front pump seal on the trans but it looks like it is leaking again so time to pull the tranny (again). I figure now is the time to change the torque converter.

Looking for suggestions for a torque converter and I am a bit confused by all the options out there and where to get one?

-D
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by xole
94 auto and I just finished putting in a D44 w/3.54's, bushings, bearings, universal's, etc.

I thought I fixed the leak on the front pump seal on the trans but it looks like it is leaking again so time to pull the tranny (again). I figure now is the time to change the torque converter.

Looking for suggestions for a torque converter and I am a bit confused by all the options out there and where to get one?

-D
Tough question to answer without more info.
What do you do with the car? street only? Drag race? Road race?
What is your budget?
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by xole
Looking for suggestions for a torque converter and I am a bit confused by all the options out there and where to get one?

-D
Pete's the man to tell you what you need. He'll sell you a good one too! Just figure out how you're going to use the car and he'll take it from there.
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 08:25 PM
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Pete will take care of you
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 10:31 PM
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Thanks Pete, I was hoping you would chime in.

Right now, it is more of a weekend driver/hobby. No plans to do any racing or autocross, but you never know. I will probably do some track times coming up more for fun than anything else. As I have been working on resurecting it I have been trying to do it right and breath life into it a little at a time.

So far mods are not major, besides the D44/gears, J55's, high flow cats, corsa, injectors and all around tune up maint stuff and playing with the computer to get more out of it.

As most folks do, everytime I think I am going to stop for a while I end up doing some more so I would not rule out some of the more basic top end upgrades in the future.

As far as money goes I was thinking between 600-800.

-David
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Old Apr 8, 2010 | 03:09 AM
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Originally Posted by xole
Thanks Pete, I was hoping you would chime in.

Right now, it is more of a weekend driver/hobby. No plans to do any racing or autocross, but you never know. I will probably do some track times coming up more for fun than anything else. As I have been working on resurecting it I have been trying to do it right and breath life into it a little at a time.

So far mods are not major, besides the D44/gears, J55's, high flow cats, corsa, injectors and all around tune up maint stuff and playing with the computer to get more out of it.

As most folks do, everytime I think I am going to stop for a while I end up doing some more so I would not rule out some of the more basic top end upgrades in the future.

As far as money goes I was thinking between 600-800.

-David
My 93 has very similar mods, currently running one of Pete's 9 1/2" converters stalled at 2800 and I am very happy with the choice.
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Old Apr 8, 2010 | 06:56 AM
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Originally Posted by xole
Thanks Pete, I was hoping you would chime in.

Right now, it is more of a weekend driver/hobby. No plans to do any racing or autocross, but you never know. I will probably do some track times coming up more for fun than anything else. As I have been working on resurecting it I have been trying to do it right and breath life into it a little at a time.

So far mods are not major, besides the D44/gears, J55's, high flow cats, corsa, injectors and all around tune up maint stuff and playing with the computer to get more out of it.

As most folks do, everytime I think I am going to stop for a while I end up doing some more so I would not rule out some of the more basic top end upgrades in the future.

As far as money goes I was thinking between 600-800.

-David
David,
I would recommend the same 2800 stall converter that toptechx6 has.
Staying below 3000 (with a lighter weight 9.5 inch converter) will prevent the need for reprogramming due to "stall wall", and will feel quite tight. In my opinion, it is a great compromise for normal street driving, acceleration, durability with minimal heat generated.
You do not have to spend $600-800 or more to get what you need.
It can be done for $550
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Old Apr 8, 2010 | 10:41 AM
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Check out the Vigilante. It's a light weight 9 1/2" convertor.

http://www.700r4l60e.com/store/catal...kup-p-179.html
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Old Apr 8, 2010 | 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Kool88vette
Check out the Vigilante. It's a light weight 9 1/2" convertor.]

Actually looking at Vigilante is what made me ask the question....1, 2 or 3 clutches...diamond plate covers....etc. How much is really needed for a just a all business converter and how much for the name on it?

They get really expensive.

I am sure it is a great product but....
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Old Apr 8, 2010 | 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by xole
Actually looking at Vigilante is what made me ask the question....1, 2 or 3 clutches...diamond plate covers....etc. How much is really needed for a just a all business converter and how much for the name on it?

They get really expensive.

I am sure it is a great product but....
That is what has enabled me to sell mine.
Under 700HP, a billet back is bling. It is a $150 upgrade that is not needed.
Multiple clutches are not proven, and some call them a gimmick, as one plate takes most of the load anyway.
*Vigilante is a quality company, that makes a quality product. You cannot take that away from them. Do you need that much bling, for the extra money is the real question.

The unit I sell is guaranteed for 1 year. No questions asked if you break it.
Well, I will ask because I am curious, bu it won't matter. Full replacement. I am that confident because I have yet to see any of my converters break, for any reason. Prolly just put the whammy on it for being confident, but it is true. None broken yet.
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Old Apr 8, 2010 | 08:31 PM
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I've been running a Vigilante for years (actually a couple of them) and have been very happy. I've got the 3 clutch models and lock up the converter at full throttle after the 1-2 shift. I run mid 10's and have not had a converter problem. During a freshenup, the billet back was actually ballooning (they couldn't explain why) and they replaced it at no charge.
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Old Apr 9, 2010 | 12:12 AM
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I would like your recomendations as well. Here are the car particulars.

Car is getting a 377 to 406 (depends on what I find when I get it to the machine shop... Long Story). It is going to have a pair of 88MM turbos (GT3788 Garrett Turbo's) I am not sure if I am going to have the ***** to spray it but it is going to be plumbed for 4 stages of NOS. My guess with that is it would benifit from an anti-balloning torque converter. I am going to run a stage 3 meth system as well. It is all going to be controlled by my Gen VII. It has a Ford 9" rear end. It is geared with 4.56 gears. The rear tires are 33X21.5 Mickey Thompson Sportsman Pro for the street and on the strip I am guessing they will not hold up so I will be going to a set of 29X19 Slicks. As for the Trans I am having a TH400 built to the hilt. This car will see major use on the drag strip, however I will be turning the boost down and doing limited street driving. I want to take it to a few car shows, and to the local coffee shop for a meet and greet every now and again.

So what would you recommend for my torque converter?

If you need more info please feel free to ask.
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Old Apr 9, 2010 | 07:54 AM
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This may be a dumb question, but if you have a 2800 stall, and your cruising rpm on the highway in OD (4L60E) is normally 2300 rpm, isn't the torque converter or stator just going to burn up?
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Old Apr 9, 2010 | 07:56 AM
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Originally Posted by supervette64
This may be a dumb question, but if you have a 2800 stall, and your cruising rpm on the highway in OD (4L60E) is normally 2300 rpm, isn't the torque converter or stator just going to burn up?
When you are cruising, the lock up clutch is applied. This puts everything inside the torque converter in a bind, and it is 1:1.
Regardless of how high a lock up converter is stalled, it has zero internal slippage once the lock up piston applies.
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