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2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (appearance mods)
C4 of Year Winner (appearance mods) 2019
Originally Posted by jwheelerjr
Are there other modifications that would need to be made to facilitate it?
I'm installing a Milidon-style thermostat with it. Should help flow rate a bit. Depending on temps after motor swap, an (all) aluminum radiator would be the next step. (Of course, main/aux fan temps can be considered)
UPDATE: Ended up getting the Edelbrock Pump from Summit. It failed on me but was just outside the warranty. Summit recommended I contact Edelbrock directly. After about an hour on hold I was finally able to speak to someone who agreed to have the pump 'rebuilt'. Of course, this is holding up the 383 build on the car but it's better then buying another one at $250 I suppose.
I'm not sure on the failure reason. It was at the builder and when he took it off he noted that it had seized. They managed to turn it a few times but it was VERY difficult to turn. I may follow up with Edelbrock after the rebuild and see if they can give me a reason.
I'm not sure on the failure reason. It was at the builder and when he took it off he noted that it had seized. They managed to turn it a few times but it was VERY difficult to turn. I may follow up with Edelbrock after the rebuild and see if they can give me a reason.
I would think twice before getting an Edelbrock W/P.. I put one on last fall and this winter it started leaking from the weep hole when ever the temps got down below freezing..I should have gotten the Stewart pump like most on here said to do.......WW
the Edlebrock was fine for several yrs then suddenly started leaking severly from the weephole.
This latest stewart model is both efficient and cost effective. It was less than most hi-vol pumps but it moves water very well. Even at a 600 rpm idle I can easily see the water/coolant being forced thru the vents/core of the big all aluminum radiator and its a big radiator so there are LOTS of vents that have to be filled. The instant that rpm goes up the water shoots thru the vents. Vol is not an issue...
I have noticed that for some reason that prolonged idle will definately see a sharp and rapid increase in temps IF the a/c condensor is preheating the cooling air. This resolves itself the first minute of forward motion where fresh air is once again drawn into the air box. As soon as rpm rises the temps go down. Long idle can get up to 230 but it will drop to <200 within 2 minutes of movement. I'm questioning the strength of the sucker fan motor...but not the Stewart water pump. I can SEE that doing its job moving water in the tank.
Look for ANY mfg that utilizes "cast impellers" instead of "stamped impeller" designs. The stamped impeller is the exact same thing thats on your alternator pulley.....not efficient in liquid..at all. It stirs water..it does not pump it.
I had my OEM pump rebuilt by the folks at Arthur Gould in New York. They did a great job at a very reasonable price (about $120 with shipping both ways). Pump works well and looks like a factory install.
the Edlebrock was fine for several yrs then suddenly started leaking severly from the weephole.
This latest stewart model is both efficient and cost effective. It was less than most hi-vol pumps but it moves water very well. Even at a 600 rpm idle I can easily see the water/coolant being forced thru the vents/core of the big all aluminum radiator and its a big radiator so there are LOTS of vents that have to be filled. The instant that rpm goes up the water shoots thru the vents. Vol is not an issue...
I have noticed that for some reason that prolonged idle will definately see a sharp and rapid increase in temps IF the a/c condensor is preheating the cooling air. This resolves itself the first minute of forward motion where fresh air is once again drawn into the air box. As soon as rpm rises the temps go down. Long idle can get up to 230 but it will drop to <200 within 2 minutes of movement. I'm questioning the strength of the sucker fan motor...but not the Stewart water pump. I can SEE that doing its job moving water in the tank.
Look for ANY mfg that utilizes "cast impellers" instead of "stamped impeller" designs. The stamped impeller is the exact same thing thats on your alternator pulley.....not efficient in liquid..at all. It stirs water..it does not pump it.
this above...
i replaced mine with an edelbrock for summer driving issues and because it started a leak on the stock water pump.
i put new one in and now i think i have an issue with excess water coming back from the water pump anyone ever develop this issue?
This may sound crazy, but since I put a high flow pump on, my temps are running 5 degrees higher then when I had the stock pump...This may be one of those issues where the water is moving through the system to fast to cool efficentily...What ever the reason Im now running 185 instead of 180 degrees.....WW
You said in another post that you changed your wp and t-stat. Your old t stat was probably letting coolant flow (not closing tight) even though it was closed, I've seen it a hundered time, plus 185 is not running hot.
...This may be one of those issues where the water is moving through the system to fast to cool efficiently...What ever the reason Im now running 185 instead of 180 degrees.....WW
If the coolant is passing through the radiator too quickly, the radiator won't have enough time to effectively exchange the heat.
I could see using a high flow pump if the radiator was larger i.e. more rows or wider/taller.