1988 C4 Battery Replacement

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Apr 9, 2010 | 03:24 PM

dsmithh

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Joined: Jun 2009

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From: Fort Wayne IN

1988 C4 Battery Replacement

Even after charging, my '88 battery struggles to turn over the car....looks like a new one is the plan. The battery area is on the drivers side, near where the hood closes. There is some kind of mechanism above the battery, and possibly a structural element that runs diagonally toward the center of the engine. Does all this have to come out to replace the battery, or is there a trick to doing this job?

Apr 9, 2010 | 03:51 PM

RollaMo-LT4

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From: Rolla Missouri

2021 C4 of the Year - Unmodified Finalist

St. Jude Donor '10 thru '25

The side cover comes off, for easy battery access.

Here:
http://www.corvettemagazine.com/2001...ttery/bat1.asp

Also, a quick search turned up this thread.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...y-removal.html

Last edited by RollaMo-LT4; Apr 9, 2010 at 03:55 PM.

Apr 9, 2010 | 04:48 PM

ggrassmid

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From: Coopersville MI

just a few bolts to removed the quarter panel with the gills on it. 3 holding the inner finder well to the panel, 1 on top hiden by the weather stripping, and 1 on the bottom. I just take the whole panel off. Very easy once you do it the first time.

Apr 9, 2010 | 08:47 PM

jfb

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From: Cincinnati, Oh USA

If the battery is old enough to be near its guarantee period, you may be correct about it being at the end of its life, however, several other things can cause slow or no cranking. You can tell the state of charge of the battery by measuring its no load terminal voltage. 12.9 volts and higher, fully charged, 12.0 volts and lower, discharged and linear in between. During cranking, the voltage on the battery terminals must not fall below 9.0 volts or the battery cables need cleaning, battery needs charging, or the battery is at the end of its life. Try removing the battery cables (neg first) and cleaning the cable lugs, bolts, and the battery posts and replace the cables (neg last).

Apr 9, 2010 | 09:47 PM

redrose

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From: backwoods upstate ny

Quote:

Originally Posted by ggrassmid

the bottom bolt is invisible, but reach into the gill panel/ rocker panel seam with a 10mm open end wrench and loosen that bolt...the gill panel hole for that bolt is slotted (except on 84 MY, if not yet 'fixed')...after battery swap/gill panel reinstall, very slowly open the drivers door and ascertain door and gill panel don't argue, adjust gill panel mounting if reqd.

Apr 9, 2010 | 10:56 PM

96_vette

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From: Hawaii

Check the output on your alternator, should be 12-14 volts at idle. If your alternator is failing to charge the battery, it may have only enough running voltage to run the ignition system and other accessories. After you replace the battery, check your alternator by turning on your headlights and applying and releasing the brake, If your lights dim or your dash lights dim that would indicate a voltage drop. Replace alternator.

Last edited by 96_vette; Apr 9, 2010 at 11:00 PM.

Apr 9, 2010 | 11:01 PM

jfb

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From: Cincinnati, Oh USA

Quote:

Originally Posted by 96_vette

Check the output on your alternator, should be 12-14 volts at idle. If your alternator is failing to charge the battery, it may still have enough running voltage to run the ignition system and other accessories. After you replace the battery, check your alternator by turning on your headlights and applying and releasing the brake, If your lights dim or your dash lights dim that would indicate a voltage drop. Replace alternator.

No thats not true at all! Cold, the alternator output voltage is normally 14.7 volts (dash voltmeter will read 0.3 volts lower, or 14.4 v) and as the alternator warms up to its operating temperature, the voltage drops to 13.7 volts (dash voltmeter will read 13.4 v).

Apr 12, 2010 | 07:51 AM

dsmithh

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Joined: Jun 2009

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From: Fort Wayne IN

Thanks for all the tips here. I was able to remove the side panel as directed, took the battery in, and was diagnosed as a bad 'cell'. What a relief. New battery and buttoned up on Saturday....starts like a champ!