C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Intake gaskets

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Old Apr 11, 2010 | 10:29 AM
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Default Intake gaskets

I have small oil leaks from my intake and seals up front by the timing case.My question can i go with felpro gaskets or should i use gm oem
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Old Apr 11, 2010 | 10:35 AM
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Felpro's very good, 4 years on mine, no leaks.

But, I do use The Right Stuff , no RTV.
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Old Apr 11, 2010 | 10:37 AM
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Is the car an LT1 or LT4? I've used both Felpro and GM LT1 intake gaskets, you can't go wrong with either. You may get a different answer from the LT4 guys.
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Old Apr 11, 2010 | 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by stl94lt1
is the car an lt1 or lt4? I've used both felpro and gm lt1 intake gaskets, you can't go wrong with either. You may get a different answer from the lt4 guys.
thanks for responces its a lt1 i think i will go with fel pro and the right stuff as sugested by bill thanks for replies
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Old Apr 11, 2010 | 01:29 PM
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Use the RIGHT STUFF. It works great.

I would also suggest that you take a center punch and use it on the front and rear "china wall" of the block and dimple the block. You should run a 3/8" diameter bead of the Right Stuff on the wall between the intake gaskets on the heads. (This is not applied to the gaskets...but on the China wall between the right and left heads at the front and rear of the block). By creating dimples in the block (I also did the same to the intake in these areas) you give the sealant something to grip. SB Chevy's are well know for leaks in these areas (front and rear of the block between the intake and block).

Take the center punch and a hammer and punch the block wall about every 1/4 inch or more.

Last edited by John A. Marker; Apr 11, 2010 at 05:21 PM. Reason: define where to apply 3/8" bead
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Old Apr 11, 2010 | 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by John A. Marker
You should run a 3/8" diameter bead of the Right Stuff on the wall between the intake gaskets on the heads.
Tried to ask/explain this forum's affinity for "The Right Stuff". But he doesn't like the idea of any sealer on an intake gasket. Part of the reason is to INSURE sealer doesn't hinder port flow (by oozing into a port during application). He likes to use the ones with a sealer ring built in around the ports,,,with silicon on the china walls.

I think it's hard to convince anyone to try something new! (Builders probably don't get much chance to see one of their motors a few years later.)

That said, I can't imagine putting a 3/8" DIAMETER bead of sealer on an intake gasket. What's to keep it from oozing into a port! Surely, I'm misunderstanding something here.

Originally Posted by John A. Marker
Take the center punch and a hammer and punch the block wall about every 1/4 inch or more.
Now that makes a lot of sense! I like that part of the suggestion.
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Old Apr 11, 2010 | 05:13 PM
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The 3/8" bead does not go on the gasket. You use it to form a gasket on the "China wall" as pictured in the prior post. This is the metal part of the block at the front and rear of the block and about 1/2 inches wide. If you look at the picture you will see all the "dimples" that I made with the center punch.


Most gasket kits come with a rubber seal that goes in this area. The 3/8" bead of sealant replaces this rubber gasket which is prone to kick out and leak and has proven to provide a much better seal.

The ADVANTAGE of the Right Stuff is that it is a great sealer and is used in place of the standard silicone sealants on the market. The #1 advantage to the right stuff is that you can use it as soon as it is applied. With silicone, you need to wait 24 hours so it can set before using. It will also clean up with lacquer thinner.

You should put a very thin...repeat thin....amount of sealant around the water jacket openings on both sides of the gasket and where the gaskets meet the China walls.

Last edited by John A. Marker; Apr 11, 2010 at 05:16 PM.
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Old Apr 11, 2010 | 05:22 PM
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The LTx intakes don't use a gasket on the front and rear, hense the Right Stuff or RTV. Also, LTx intakes are dry, no water jackets.
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Old Apr 11, 2010 | 05:29 PM
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Another picture of dimpling. I also used The Right Stuff with Felpro gaskets. No leaks yet.

Last edited by Weav's Vet; Dec 22, 2013 at 01:22 PM.
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Old Apr 11, 2010 | 09:11 PM
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My approach was to dimple the walls as suggested and apply a 3/8" bead of RTV. First, I applied a thin film of RTV around the intake and coolant ports when I set the Fel Pro gasket in place. I installed the intake manifold dry and snugged the bolts to press the gasket to the heads. After 24 hours, I removed the intake and then applied a thin film of RTV to the intake side of the gaskets, set the manifold and torqued. This approach is supposed to keep the gaskets from deforming when the bolts are torqued. So far, no leaks.
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Old Apr 12, 2010 | 12:44 AM
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Sorry John, I didn't understand you to mean the China wall in the sentence I quoted above. Somehow I thought that sentence referred to the intake-to-head surface. :o

So, who's in favor of applying a sealant to the intake port gaskets? I have to decide that within the next week.

Edit: Hope this is relavent to the OP. Also, my choice is to use FelPro though I don't have use-history to back up that decision.

Last edited by GREGGPENN; Apr 12, 2010 at 12:47 AM.
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Old Apr 12, 2010 | 07:49 AM
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Originally Posted by GREGGPENN
Sorry John, I didn't understand you to mean the China wall in the sentence I quoted above. Somehow I thought that sentence referred to the intake-to-head surface. :o

So, who's in favor of applying a sealant to the intake port gaskets? I have to decide that within the next week.

Edit: Hope this is relavent to the OP. Also, my choice is to use FelPro though I don't have use-history to back up that decision.
Actually, Fel Pro recommends a thin film of RTV around the intake and coolant ports.
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Old Apr 12, 2010 | 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by John A. Marker
The 3/8" bead does not go on the gasket. You use it to form a gasket on the "China wall" as pictured in the prior post. This is the metal part of the block at the front and rear of the block and about 1/2 inches wide. If you look at the picture you will see all the "dimples" that I made with the center punch.

Most gasket kits come with a rubber seal that goes in this area. The 3/8" bead of sealant replaces this rubber gasket which is prone to kick out and leak and has proven to provide a much better seal.

The ADVANTAGE of the Right Stuff is that it is a great sealer and is used in place of the standard silicone sealants on the market. The #1 advantage to the right stuff is that you can use it as soon as it is applied. With silicone, you need to wait 24 hours so it can set before using. It will also clean up with lacquer thinner.

You should put a very thin...repeat thin....amount of sealant around the water jacket openings on both sides of the gasket and where the gaskets meet the China walls.
Yep, I've pretty much thrown out all my RTV.

And I've discarded the rubber chin wall gaskets and used TRS on some SBCs.

Personnaly, I feel the dimpling is more effective when using RTV and it can't hurt with TRS. I haven't done it lately. The last 3 LT1 intakes I've done weren't dimpled, my car's at 4 years with no leaks. But it's probably an extra but of insurance.
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