C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

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Old Apr 17, 2010 | 12:15 AM
  #21  
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Here is a basic schematic of the serial data wiring...


If you test that assembly for continuity, shorts to ground, and shorts to power, that is about all the testing you can do. The pic above gives your connector and terminal numbers to orient yourself.
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Old Apr 17, 2010 | 12:17 AM
  #22  
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No cruise and no speedo. Also car has had a service ABS light since I bought it. RR sensor air gap.
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Old Apr 17, 2010 | 01:09 AM
  #23  
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O.K. In addition to checking the tan wires in the above schematic, you can also check continuity in the Dark Green/White wire from the ECM (Pin #B8) to the CCM (Pin #E2). Also check for shorts to ground, power.
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Old Apr 17, 2010 | 12:29 PM
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Okay heres what i didcovered this morning. Someone suggested i go back to square one and check things that have been altered . Over the winter I had the whole stereo repaired. So I removed the radio head unit in the dash and the sys is no long on. I have another head unit I am going to borrow and see if the problem is solved. The fuse that operates the head unit was also one the was giving me a draw with key off when I was having the battery drain problem. Might be onto something. After I check the radio ill get back to you.

Also have a replacement ECM to see if that helps the SES light problem.
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Old Apr 17, 2010 | 07:26 PM
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There is a modification that involves adding two 1K resistors to the GM stereo harness for aftermarket stereos. Whoever redid the stereo might not have known what they were for and removed them?
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Old Apr 18, 2010 | 12:23 PM
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Have ccm out, aldl , heater control and brakes have signal, ecm no signal. Checking for open or ground next.
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Old Apr 18, 2010 | 02:31 PM
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ccm unplugged and with multi meter conected to the neg. I have a a ground at d20 and nothing at d15. Meter to pos and I get 12v at d20 and nothing at d15. So d15 is always dead and d20 is a ground.............
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Old Apr 18, 2010 | 09:05 PM
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What color are these wires? I only show "D pins" up to D16. D15 is light green; "Security Disarm Input".






Last edited by Tom400CFI; Apr 18, 2010 at 09:17 PM.
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Old Apr 18, 2010 | 09:14 PM
  #29  
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Are you looking at engine code 8 or J. I have a LT5 with J code. There are 22 pins in each of the four connectors....
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Old Apr 18, 2010 | 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by toyvet1
Are you looking at engine code 8 or J. I have a LT5 with J code. There are 22 pins in each of the four connectors....
Ah. Well that certainly makes a significant difference. Don't know how I missed that!

Let me look at the ZR-1 info....

Last edited by Tom400CFI; Apr 18, 2010 at 09:26 PM.
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Old Apr 18, 2010 | 09:29 PM
  #31  
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My ZR-1 info shows the same chart as I posted above. 16 pins, for C, D, E, and F.

Are we talking about the plugs that plug into the CCM?
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Old Apr 19, 2010 | 03:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Tom400CFI
Never heard of such a thing. I believe that it's possible to over work a weak alternator, doing such a task.

But the statement The alternator doesn't put enough juice out to charge it.....that isn't correct. The Alternator does. Maybe to it's detriment, (though I've never seen that happen), but it puts out the volts and amps to charge a battery, given time.

Either way, The OP doesn't have a stone dead battery. Or a dead battery at all. The alternator, if working will certainly keep a decent or even marginal battery, UP. Agreed?
Yes, That makes sense to me, never having any experience with anything later than an '84. The alternator should be able to maintain a charge in a serviceable battery

RACE ON!!!
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Old Apr 19, 2010 | 10:59 AM
  #33  
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The ecm is where d15 and 20 are at wc13 is the wire on the ccm. Talked to K&B this am. I might have fried the ccm jump starting the car this spring. The ccm and ecm will be shipped in the morning to them. It will take about a week to get them back.

SES light might be a different issue. We'll see if that helps...
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Old Apr 19, 2010 | 11:45 AM
  #34  
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Have you verified that the harness is good?

Let us know the results of the ECM/CCM work over, if you would please.

-Tom
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Old Apr 21, 2010 | 11:04 AM
  #35  
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If you read above I noted the ecm D15 data wire is dead and D20 has a 12v . I have about a dozen gremlins since the stereo replacement. Like when the interior lights come on the abs relays scatter. Air bag system is energised with key off, schock servos motors operating while key off. Something is powerering the car. None of this before the stereo, everything I have issues with all tie into the ccm. I talk to Ken at K&B and was told jumping a dead battery is a killer on ccms. Guess what i did! So I need to narrow it down before i keep chasing my tail. I find it hard to believe the wiring harness just took a fall at this time. But stranger things happen.
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Old Apr 21, 2010 | 11:33 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by toyvet1
If you read above I noted the ecm D15 data wire is dead and D20 has a 12v . I have about a dozen gremlins since the stereo replacement. Like when the interior lights come on the abs relays scatter. Air bag system is energised with key off, schock servos motors operating while key off. Something is powerering the car. None of this before the stereo, everything I have issues with all tie into the ccm. I talk to Ken at K&B and was told jumping a dead battery is a killer on ccms. Guess what i did! So I need to narrow it down before i keep chasing my tail. I find it hard to believe the wiring harness just took a fall at this time. But stranger things happen.
Since it coincides w/the stereo replacement, I'd be concerned about a short to power, or short to ground....that was no fault of the harness, but of the stereo installer. That is why I would get after the harness first, then spend money on the ECM/CCM later. I see your reasoning though. You're moving in a direction, and that is a lot better than doing nothing.

FYI, I don't believe that you SHOULD see any voltage at pin D15 (at the ECM) Using a DVOM, it should appear "dead" on the DC voltage scale. Terminal D20 should show 5v according to my chart, so something might be amiss there (short to power?).
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Old Apr 21, 2010 | 01:08 PM
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[QUOTE=ninetyfivevette;1573792338]There is a modification that involves adding two 1K resistors to the GM stereo harness for aftermarket stereos. Whoever redid the stereo might not have known what they were for and removed them?[/QUOTE

My son's 96 LT1 is experiencing the same flashing 'SYS' light . He just never got around to installing the resistors.

What wires should they be spliced in to?

Thanks,

Jake
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Old Apr 21, 2010 | 03:55 PM
  #38  
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Car has stock bose system rebuilt by Dr Don . Will het into it more when ccm comes back
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Old Apr 21, 2010 | 04:13 PM
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[QUOTE=JAKE;1573831347]
Originally Posted by ninetyfivevette
There is a modification that involves adding two 1K resistors to the GM stereo harness for aftermarket stereos. Whoever redid the stereo might not have known what they were for and removed them?[/QUOTE

My son's 96 LT1 is experiencing the same flashing 'SYS' light . He just never got around to installing the resistors.

What wires should they be spliced in to?

Thanks,

Jake
Look here
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/audi...t-fix-diy.html
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Old Apr 22, 2010 | 10:15 PM
  #40  
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D15 and 20 are serial data wires. Neither shouldnt have any voltage.
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