C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Loosing brake fluid.....

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Old Apr 22, 2010 | 07:08 PM
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Default Loosing brake fluid.....

Losing brake fluid*****

I just put a brand new brake booster and master cylinder in my 86 vette along with the new little white sensor that goes on the master cylinder. MY problem is that the little whit sensor is spitting out fluid, therefore i am loosing fluid regularly. At first i thought it was the sensor itself because between the two prongs on it it has a hole, but when i purchased a brand new one the same hole was there? i know that that is where the fluid is coming out of, any ideas how to make it stop!?!?! Thanks
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Old Apr 22, 2010 | 07:54 PM
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It sounds like the seals on the proportioning valve in your new master are bad. I would return the new master cylinder for another one. Before you install the next one, bench bleed the MC with the brake sensor installed and make sure it's not leaking too.
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Old Apr 22, 2010 | 11:54 PM
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Was the master cylinder new or remanumactured?Never buy a reman master as only 1 out of 3 worked
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Old Nov 30, 2010 | 09:48 PM
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Sorry for digging up the graves, I think I have the same issue. Did replacing the master cyl fix the issue? I just got the remanufactured master cyl installed and it turns the brake sensor into a fountain if I don't have the plug connected. Is this a symptom of a messed up reman master cyl?
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Old Dec 1, 2010 | 07:52 AM
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Hey Black Ice, when i replaced the master cylinder and brake booster all my problems went away, have not had a leak since!
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Old Dec 2, 2010 | 03:46 PM
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WOW!! One out of three?? A 67% chance of a failure? I don't like those odds. I'll spend the extra money on a new one--along with peace of mind and less aggravation and clean-up.

Thanks for the information, 94vettelover2.
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Old Dec 2, 2010 | 09:24 PM
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im on number 4 rebuilt
what crap they want to sell
anymore and yes one of them leaked thru
the sensor if this one fails
im buying a new one
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Old Dec 7, 2010 | 10:53 AM
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Default Master Cylinder Help

Originally Posted by C4boy
It sounds like the seals on the proportioning valve in your new master are bad. I would return the new master cylinder for another one. Before you install the next one, bench bleed the MC with the brake sensor installed and make sure it's not leaking too.
Hi Guys - this may sound like a silly question but I have to ask because I'm new to working ob brakes... How do youbench bleed the master cylinder?

I inherrited mydads 94 LT1 but the brakes don't work. It spews the fluid through the hole in the sensor. He had replaced the master & booster but it still had the same problem. I want to test the master cylinder before I replace it. I already have to replace the booster, as I found a crack in the canister.

Thanks for any assistance.
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Old Dec 7, 2010 | 12:40 PM
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You can probably find more illustrations if you google "master cylinder bench bleeding" or maybe there's a write up on the forum somewhere. Here's a quick couple links. One for a kit and here's one with pics.

Bench bleeding removes the air from the master cylinder as opposed to bleeding it all the way through the brake system and out at each caliper.
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Old Dec 7, 2010 | 05:00 PM
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Thanks for the reply C4boy. Ok so if I bench bleed it is there anything special I should be looking for besides the air bubbles and how do I know if the seals inside are good? I'm guessing that if the seals are bad inside then it wont pump the fluid back up into the canister?

If the seals are bad that will cause the sensor to push fluid out? I found out today that the master may not have been brand new the original could have been rebuilt or a re-manufactured one may have been put on. he had it done by a so called "Friend / Mechanic" that over charged him and probably did the job as cheap as he could.
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Old Dec 7, 2010 | 07:11 PM
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The 2nd link I posted is as good an explanation of how to bench bleed as any. Once the bubbles stop, the air is out of the MC. I doubt someone would have put a new master on your car, a remanufactured one is pretty standard and what most shops would use. To me it wouldn't really make a difference.

If the seals on the proportioning valve are bad or possibly even the spring in front of it, then it can leak at the brake sensor switch. You could fix it by removing the proportioning valve from the MC if you're handy.
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Old Dec 7, 2010 | 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by j-wireman
WOW!! One out of three?? A 67% chance of a failure? I don't like those odds. I'll spend the extra money on a new one--along with peace of mind and less aggravation and clean-up.

Thanks for the information, 94vettelover2.
Sorry,let me correct that statement.Its the other way around-33% chance of failure.But in all honesty,in my experience it happens(failure)usually within 6-12 months compared to a new one lasting years.You roll the dice on all reman parts.Sometimes they last along timebut I never seen a reman part last as long or longer than a new part
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Old Dec 8, 2010 | 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by C4boy
The 2nd link I posted is as good an explanation of how to bench bleed as any. Once the bubbles stop, the air is out of the MC. I doubt someone would have put a new master on your car, a remanufactured one is pretty standard and what most shops would use. To me it wouldn't really make a difference.

If the seals on the proportioning valve are bad or possibly even the spring in front of it, then it can leak at the brake sensor switch. You could fix it by removing the proportioning valve from the MC if you're handy.
If I remove the proportioning valve wont it cause the back wheels to lock up when I apply the breaks?
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Old Dec 8, 2010 | 01:21 PM
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Sorry, my post was kind of incomplete. What I meant was, the proportioning valve can be removed from the MC, then cleaned, checked for bad o-rings (& replace if necessary) . But I'd hate to lead you down that path if you are new to brakes and don't have a shop manual. Sometimes the valve can be hard to remove from the MC.
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Old Dec 8, 2010 | 01:56 PM
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When this happened after installing the DRM spring, I had to manually locate the shuttle valve to center and pin it down with a modified bolt. Did this by removing the white switch and replacing it with the bolt. Then the brakes were bled and the white switch was reinstalled. It worked for me and 20K miles later all is well.
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Old Dec 8, 2010 | 02:28 PM
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ok, thanks for the replies and information. It's a starting point. I will pick up a manual and give it a shot.

One more question - Does anyone know if the brake booster can have anything to do with the fluid leaking out of the sensor. My booster is cracked, im just wondering if the pressure loss could cause this leak? I placed some duct tape over the crack just playing around (I will never drive the car this way, lol) and the brakes work much better then when I got the car.

Good thing the crack didn't get worse when I drove the car from Washington state to Socal. That could have been very bad flying down the grapevine with no breaks...
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Old Dec 8, 2010 | 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Funnynitts
Does anyone know if the brake booster can have anything to do with the fluid leaking out of the sensor.
No.
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Old Dec 8, 2010 | 10:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Funnynitts
Does anyone know if the brake booster can have anything to do with the fluid leaking out of the sensor.
The two are unrelated. If you read my post you'll notice that I had to relocate the shuttle valve to "center". WHY? Cause fluid was coming out of the sensor.

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Old Dec 8, 2010 | 11:35 PM
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Thanks for all the info guys. I was just told that the booster and M/C are like 4 months old and the receipts are being sent to me. I'm gonna take them back to Napa and get some exchanges as both should be under warranty. Hopefully after changing them out I will be back on the road!
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Old Dec 9, 2010 | 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by JrRifleCoach
When this happened after installing the DRM spring, I had to manually locate the shuttle valve to center and pin it down with a modified bolt.
That's probably a better explanation as to why some of the rebuilts leak at the switch.
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