1993 ruby red
Drifting
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 1,874
Likes: 1
From: Garden Grove CA
Welcome, and congrats on your purchase. That power, and more is all possible, we just need to know more details.
Is your power goal for engine hp at the flywheel, or rear wheel hp? There is ~ a 15% (manual trans) to 18% (automatic trans) power loss through the drivetrain to the rear wheels. So if your power goal is 450 rwhp, then you will need ~ 530 to 550 engine hp. That will make a big difference on the engine build. What kind of a budget for the engine build? Speed and power costs money, how fast do you want to go? Which transmission do you have? If automatic then you will need to beef that up for that power level. Any drag racing plans? If yes, and you have the auto trans, then you also have the Dana 36 differential which will not live long at the drags at that power level. Are you going to be doing the work yourself or have it done at a shop? Or, are you going to have someone else do the build and you are going to do the installation? Once again the old speed vs. budget.
Thomas
Is your power goal for engine hp at the flywheel, or rear wheel hp? There is ~ a 15% (manual trans) to 18% (automatic trans) power loss through the drivetrain to the rear wheels. So if your power goal is 450 rwhp, then you will need ~ 530 to 550 engine hp. That will make a big difference on the engine build. What kind of a budget for the engine build? Speed and power costs money, how fast do you want to go? Which transmission do you have? If automatic then you will need to beef that up for that power level. Any drag racing plans? If yes, and you have the auto trans, then you also have the Dana 36 differential which will not live long at the drags at that power level. Are you going to be doing the work yourself or have it done at a shop? Or, are you going to have someone else do the build and you are going to do the installation? Once again the old speed vs. budget.
Thomas
Pro
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 502
Likes: 0
Make sure you beef up the drivetrain or you will be sorry.
If you have an auto, swap out the dana 36 for a dana 44.
Rebuild the tranny and get better gears, cause you probably have 2.59's and get a higher torque converter, like 2600-3000.
You are starting at 300 chp, if you have high mileage, then a 383 w/heads, cam and headers will get you there.
Do a search, there has been a million and one threads about this subject and what people got w/what setup.
If you have an auto, swap out the dana 36 for a dana 44.
Rebuild the tranny and get better gears, cause you probably have 2.59's and get a higher torque converter, like 2600-3000.
You are starting at 300 chp, if you have high mileage, then a 383 w/heads, cam and headers will get you there.
Do a search, there has been a million and one threads about this subject and what people got w/what setup.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 9,933
Likes: 38
From: South Carolina
St. Jude Donor '03 & '05
Words of advice from experience, start with the rearend and move forward with upgrades .
The Dana36 will break, so put a D44. Dont kid yourself and think a D36 will last with that HP. There are exceptions, rare exceptions.
If an Automatic, talk to Petek and follow his advice for getting yours upgraded to handle the HP/TQ. You will soon enough.
HP/TQ is easy. Stock ported/polished heads and a medium cam 220-225 intake duration, 225-30 ex duration, 112-114 lsa, and around 550 lift. Long tube headers and a GOOD tune.
your 48 mm throttle body is fine, but you may want a ported factory one to 52mm. Dont waste your time buying a aftermarket throttle body, as they arent very well designed as the factory.
Change injectors to 30#'s, but not necessary as your 24#'s will handle it.
The Dana36 will break, so put a D44. Dont kid yourself and think a D36 will last with that HP. There are exceptions, rare exceptions.
If an Automatic, talk to Petek and follow his advice for getting yours upgraded to handle the HP/TQ. You will soon enough.
HP/TQ is easy. Stock ported/polished heads and a medium cam 220-225 intake duration, 225-30 ex duration, 112-114 lsa, and around 550 lift. Long tube headers and a GOOD tune.
your 48 mm throttle body is fine, but you may want a ported factory one to 52mm. Dont waste your time buying a aftermarket throttle body, as they arent very well designed as the factory.
Change injectors to 30#'s, but not necessary as your 24#'s will handle it.
Pro
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 533
Likes: 6
From: Poinciana Florida
I'm way past where you want to be. Stupid me. Drop the coins for a supercharger. If possible,secure either a Vortech T trim or a Procharger D1. Obviously make what ever fuel and tuning upgrades that are suggested by the installing shop to include water injection. Find and install a pair of C beam plates to keep the rear end straight when shifting. Other than a trans shift kit don't do anything else. You'll have about 400+/- rear wheel horse power. You'll be about 1 second faster in an eigth mile than the average vette. Keep in mind you reach a point where TRACTION is your enemy. It simply doesn't like you. Adding additional power improvements won't solve the traction problem. Having horsepower doesn't mean you can use it. And DO NOT GO OVER 8 lbs boost. Have Fun and Enjoy.
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Thread Starter
8th Gear
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
ruby red
Thanks Thomas. I am new in this business; all i want is 400 to 450 at the flywheel. i can spend about $4000 on the engine it has 178k miles and automatic transmission. need all the help i can get like i said i don’t know much about engines and this is my first time involved in something like this and you know how it is lots of shops want to get advantage of this. if you can help me i greatly appreciated. Thanks
Thread Starter
8th Gear
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
ruby red
Good advice, will try to do that if i have some $ left, i really don’t want to raise, all i want is to feel some extra horse power under the hood, any advice will be appreciated. I don’t want my idle to be rough, what cam would you recommend
