Calling all Electric water pump LT1's
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Calling all Electric water pump LT1's
Where did you guys wire your "ignition on" wire to your relay?
I see there are large ignition fuses behind the battery but I dont have any wiring diagrams so Im not sure where there is an Ignition on wire.
Any help would be appreciated!
Thanks!
I see there are large ignition fuses behind the battery but I dont have any wiring diagrams so Im not sure where there is an Ignition on wire.
Any help would be appreciated!
Thanks!
#3
Safety Car
Member Since: Dec 2007
Location: Sandhills of North Carolina
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I bought the wiring kit for the Mezerie I have. I wired mine into a switched hot wire that goes to the fan relays. The kit has it's own fuse and relay built in. It's worth the extra money to get it.
#4
Race Director
Here's a write up from the TECH TIPS
I used to have a link with pictures but I can't seem to find it right now.
Here's a link to a thread the talks about LT1 EWP install problem that may help you with the wiring too.
Mike
I used to have a link with pictures but I can't seem to find it right now.
Here's a link to a thread the talks about LT1 EWP install problem that may help you with the wiring too.
Mike
Last edited by aboatguy; 05-08-2010 at 04:49 PM.
#5
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Its getting late and Im heading to sleep! Have a lot to do with "mom" tomorrow!
But Ill check back later!
Thanks for all your knowledge guys!
#6
Le Mans Master
I'm going through this now as I put my EWP in a few weeks ago. I tapped into the fan realy harness (before the realy) on 2 different relays, and while both trigger the pump fine, I'm now throwing a fan code. Both fans run, and the high speen fan seems to tirgger, but I'm also running 20 degrees hotter at idle. I'm at a loss and haven't had the time to mess with it. I will be looking at a wire near the fan itself next.
#9
Advanced
Member Since: Sep 2007
Location: North West PA
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I did mine at the fan relay, and everything works fine with no codes. Pink and black wire to either relay on the '92, and I mounted my EWP relay directly above them.
Bought the 33 gpm kit from summit with painless wiring harness for I think $215 shipped, and a couple weeks later I have the 160* t-stat in, and my cruising temps hold steady at 180-185*, around town red light to red light I see 190-200*.
Bought the 33 gpm kit from summit with painless wiring harness for I think $215 shipped, and a couple weeks later I have the 160* t-stat in, and my cruising temps hold steady at 180-185*, around town red light to red light I see 190-200*.
#10
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Nov 2006
Location: Portsmouth Virginia 396LT4 435RWHP/400RWTQ Best so far 11.26 @ 123mph
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I did mine at the fan relay, and everything works fine with no codes. Pink and black wire to either relay on the '92, and I mounted my EWP relay directly above them.
Bought the 33 gpm kit from summit with painless wiring harness for I think $215 shipped, and a couple weeks later I have the 160* t-stat in, and my cruising temps hold steady at 180-185*, around town red light to red light I see 190-200*.
Bought the 33 gpm kit from summit with painless wiring harness for I think $215 shipped, and a couple weeks later I have the 160* t-stat in, and my cruising temps hold steady at 180-185*, around town red light to red light I see 190-200*.
Summit pump,Painless harness with relay, and 160 stat wired to the pink fan relay wire for ignition.No problems so far after 3 years.
Rick
Last edited by PDQUIK95; 05-10-2010 at 08:04 AM. Reason: add
#11
I wired mine to the fuel pump relay signal wire right out of the pcm harness - anytime the fuel pump is running so is my waterpump.
I agree with everyone above that mentions a 160* t-stat. With the stock 180* stat I was seeing coolant temps steady around 200-210 and oil temps in excess of 250. With the 160 stat my coolant maintains around 180 cruising and peaks around 200. Oil in the 220s.
I agree with everyone above that mentions a 160* t-stat. With the stock 180* stat I was seeing coolant temps steady around 200-210 and oil temps in excess of 250. With the 160 stat my coolant maintains around 180 cruising and peaks around 200. Oil in the 220s.
Last edited by jmgtp; 05-10-2010 at 08:38 AM.
#12
Team Owner
I wired mine to a separate relay....
#13
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Aug 2004
Location: Metairie Louisiana
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I've been away for some time. It looks like all my picture links on old threads were broken when I reorganized my photobucket page. He's the most useful pic though...
Last edited by rickneworleansla; 05-10-2010 at 03:31 PM.
#14
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Awesome!!!
Thanks everyone for the great knowledge!!!
As a side note... Summit doesnt have Tstats for the LT1's anyone know where I can get one? I think SLP makes one right?
Thanks everyone for the great knowledge!!!
As a side note... Summit doesnt have Tstats for the LT1's anyone know where I can get one? I think SLP makes one right?
#15
Race Director
This is from my tech tip as mentioned earlier:
All that is left is
the wiring. Meziere didn't give us what was really needed to wire this
pump up correctly. So, you need at least a 30 amp relay (Radio shack has
one, but a good electric fuel pump 30 amp relay might be better as far as
lasting longer). Another product that might be better is the Painless
brand electric water pump relay kit from Jeg's. I just didn't know
the amperage of the relay and it was $30. Also, I bought a 10-gauge wire
20 amp fuse holder with a few feet of 10-gauge wire. Some 10 - 12gauge
terminal ends, Insulated female receptacles to plug into the relay, butt
connectors to connect to the fuse holder and I eliminated the Mez plug
connector and went with butt connectors. A better way would be to use a
quality weather pack plug. Also, get some ring end terminals to connect
to the "jump-start junction block." In case you don't know what a
relay is for let me explain. The relay is a switch that keeps the high
drawing amperage components away from areas that shouldn't have high
amperage. The relay has a signal circuit that energizes the relay and
makes a high amp connection. The Mez pump is a high amperage draw and we
need a relay to turn it on. Where does the signal circuit get its power or
signal? I chose to use the "run-on, bulb test, crank" circuit which is
the one that is powered when the ignition switch is on. Where did I get
the power to run the pump? From the "jump-start junction block, which is
basically a direct shot from the battery. Okay, enough of electrics 101.
There is a block or junction of electrical wires connecting to one source
(a bolt with a nut) right behind the battery. This is 12 volt all the time
power. Put a ringed end terminal on it and run the wire to the relay you
bought. One of the tabs should say 12volt in. I mounted the fuse holder on
top of the ASR with the bolt that holds the cover on. I also mounted the
relay just under the ECM, there is a small plastic tab that sticks down
and I drilled a small hole for mounting the relay. Continue the wire from
the relay where it says 12volt out to the fuse holder. Connect the other
end of the fuse holder to the BLUE wire of the Mez pump. I dressed it into
the harness right along the edge of the fender. I used a butt connector
instead of the supplied plug (too cheap). Run the black wire from the pump
to a ground, I used the ground bolt just under the fan relays. Secure that
wire from the pump to the fan braces via tie wraps; don't want to have
it tangle with the serp belt. Now for the signal circuit. In my 92, the
run-on circuit runs to the fans and it is pink with a black stripe. You
can find it by tracing back from the cooling fan relays to a point where
you can make a splice. If you have any pink wire at the store, you can
keep the color correct for your circuit, or just use any 14 -16 gauge
wire. After making the splice, run the wire to the relay and connect to
the "on/off switch" tab. Run the remaining tab to ground. Again, I ran
it to the same bolt under the fans for ground. Recheck your connections
and that is it for the wiring.
I wish I had pictures, but back when I did this you couldn't post pictures with a tech tip. My 92 was done over 6 years ago and still runs perfectly. I'm thinking of buying a spare water pump just in case.....
All that is left is
the wiring. Meziere didn't give us what was really needed to wire this
pump up correctly. So, you need at least a 30 amp relay (Radio shack has
one, but a good electric fuel pump 30 amp relay might be better as far as
lasting longer). Another product that might be better is the Painless
brand electric water pump relay kit from Jeg's. I just didn't know
the amperage of the relay and it was $30. Also, I bought a 10-gauge wire
20 amp fuse holder with a few feet of 10-gauge wire. Some 10 - 12gauge
terminal ends, Insulated female receptacles to plug into the relay, butt
connectors to connect to the fuse holder and I eliminated the Mez plug
connector and went with butt connectors. A better way would be to use a
quality weather pack plug. Also, get some ring end terminals to connect
to the "jump-start junction block." In case you don't know what a
relay is for let me explain. The relay is a switch that keeps the high
drawing amperage components away from areas that shouldn't have high
amperage. The relay has a signal circuit that energizes the relay and
makes a high amp connection. The Mez pump is a high amperage draw and we
need a relay to turn it on. Where does the signal circuit get its power or
signal? I chose to use the "run-on, bulb test, crank" circuit which is
the one that is powered when the ignition switch is on. Where did I get
the power to run the pump? From the "jump-start junction block, which is
basically a direct shot from the battery. Okay, enough of electrics 101.
There is a block or junction of electrical wires connecting to one source
(a bolt with a nut) right behind the battery. This is 12 volt all the time
power. Put a ringed end terminal on it and run the wire to the relay you
bought. One of the tabs should say 12volt in. I mounted the fuse holder on
top of the ASR with the bolt that holds the cover on. I also mounted the
relay just under the ECM, there is a small plastic tab that sticks down
and I drilled a small hole for mounting the relay. Continue the wire from
the relay where it says 12volt out to the fuse holder. Connect the other
end of the fuse holder to the BLUE wire of the Mez pump. I dressed it into
the harness right along the edge of the fender. I used a butt connector
instead of the supplied plug (too cheap). Run the black wire from the pump
to a ground, I used the ground bolt just under the fan relays. Secure that
wire from the pump to the fan braces via tie wraps; don't want to have
it tangle with the serp belt. Now for the signal circuit. In my 92, the
run-on circuit runs to the fans and it is pink with a black stripe. You
can find it by tracing back from the cooling fan relays to a point where
you can make a splice. If you have any pink wire at the store, you can
keep the color correct for your circuit, or just use any 14 -16 gauge
wire. After making the splice, run the wire to the relay and connect to
the "on/off switch" tab. Run the remaining tab to ground. Again, I ran
it to the same bolt under the fans for ground. Recheck your connections
and that is it for the wiring.
I wish I had pictures, but back when I did this you couldn't post pictures with a tech tip. My 92 was done over 6 years ago and still runs perfectly. I'm thinking of buying a spare water pump just in case.....