Opti spark removal
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 4,212
Likes: 10
From: Sun City West Az
Opti spark removal
My ' 92 shop manual says that you must remove the 2 engine mounting bolts and lift the engine to get access to the damper bolts. Is this a true. Do you have to pull the damper? I have found that the manual has a lot of mistakes. (ie: removing the exhaust manifolds)....the manual is incorrect on their removal. Also, once the damper is off, what tool is used at the crank to remove the hub that the damper screws into? Thanks for the help.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 2,143
Likes: 7
From: San Diego CA
Re: Opti spark removal (ittlfly)
Unless the design is substantially different between 92 and 94 you don't need to lift the engine to remove the dampner. I was able to use my belt tensioner bar with a 5/8" socket (I think?) to fit between the front cross member and the dampner. Everything else was too big to fit. With this I was able to remove it from the top.
Leave the serpentine belt on till you loosen all 3 bolts. It'll give you a bit more resistance against turning the engine. Others have recommended putting a socket extension through the slots in the dampner, but I didn't need it.
Once the bolts are loose remove the belt don't let the bolts get too loose before removing the belt or it could become cocked at an angle and jam. I was able to wiggle the pulley free (it had been removed about 6500 miles before.) others recommended placing a 2x4 against the outer rim and wacking it a couple of times to loosen it.
Be sure to mark the crank hub and the dampner pulley so you will be able to properly orient it when you reinstall it. I use white fingernail polish.
Also, it helps it you mark the opti drive shaft (mine had a white dot in the center of the shaft) where the keyed teeth are. It will help when you reinstall the opti. When you reinstall it, it should slip on without any force. If you have to force it, you will not have it in the proper position. It took me about 15-20 minutes of trial and error to get the teeth lined up to allow it to slip into place.
BTW, nice color:D .
Cheers,
[Modified by John Row, 1:24 PM 3/18/2002]
Leave the serpentine belt on till you loosen all 3 bolts. It'll give you a bit more resistance against turning the engine. Others have recommended putting a socket extension through the slots in the dampner, but I didn't need it.
Once the bolts are loose remove the belt don't let the bolts get too loose before removing the belt or it could become cocked at an angle and jam. I was able to wiggle the pulley free (it had been removed about 6500 miles before.) others recommended placing a 2x4 against the outer rim and wacking it a couple of times to loosen it.
Be sure to mark the crank hub and the dampner pulley so you will be able to properly orient it when you reinstall it. I use white fingernail polish.
Also, it helps it you mark the opti drive shaft (mine had a white dot in the center of the shaft) where the keyed teeth are. It will help when you reinstall the opti. When you reinstall it, it should slip on without any force. If you have to force it, you will not have it in the proper position. It took me about 15-20 minutes of trial and error to get the teeth lined up to allow it to slip into place.
BTW, nice color:D .
Cheers,
[Modified by John Row, 1:24 PM 3/18/2002]
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 790
Likes: 2
Re: Opti spark removal (John Row)
You do NOT have to lift the engine. I just did this job on a 92. Leave the serpentine belt on to loosen the three hub bolts...you can get a three inch ratchet in their...use the slap technique to dislodge the bolts. Remove the serpentine belt and then remove the bolts.
To remove the balancer, crawl underneath the car. There's just enough room between the engine and the crossmember to get a long bar or 2x2. Tap it off with a hammer...tap one side, move to the other side, tap...etc. This part is kind of PITA, but not too bad.
If all you're gonna do is replace the opti, you don't have to remove the crank hub. Of course the waterpump has to come off to remove the opti. I removed it first along with all hoses to give me more room to work in there.
Now...If you're gonna replace the front timing chain cover seal (there's actually three: opti seal, waterpump seal, crank seal), you'll need to remove the hub to get to the crank seal. A standard three bolt puller works just fine. You'll notice a little rise in the hydraulic line above the steering rack. The tensioner bolt on the puller goes through that, and you operate it from under the front of the car. Mine was really easy.
One word of caution. If you ARE gonna replace the front crank seal (recommended), after you've loosened the three balancer bolts and before you've removed the serpentine belt, break the crank hub bolt free. I was able to get a 1/2" wratchet with socket on it, and smacked it with a hammer and it broke free. On all of those bolts, if you try to simply loosen them without smacking them first, you'll turn the crank...so smack em a few times! :)
If you need any other info, feel free to ask. It's not as tough as people make it seem, at least mine wasn't.
Oh, by the way...if you want to change plug wires...this is the time to do it.
To remove the balancer, crawl underneath the car. There's just enough room between the engine and the crossmember to get a long bar or 2x2. Tap it off with a hammer...tap one side, move to the other side, tap...etc. This part is kind of PITA, but not too bad.
If all you're gonna do is replace the opti, you don't have to remove the crank hub. Of course the waterpump has to come off to remove the opti. I removed it first along with all hoses to give me more room to work in there.
Now...If you're gonna replace the front timing chain cover seal (there's actually three: opti seal, waterpump seal, crank seal), you'll need to remove the hub to get to the crank seal. A standard three bolt puller works just fine. You'll notice a little rise in the hydraulic line above the steering rack. The tensioner bolt on the puller goes through that, and you operate it from under the front of the car. Mine was really easy.
One word of caution. If you ARE gonna replace the front crank seal (recommended), after you've loosened the three balancer bolts and before you've removed the serpentine belt, break the crank hub bolt free. I was able to get a 1/2" wratchet with socket on it, and smacked it with a hammer and it broke free. On all of those bolts, if you try to simply loosen them without smacking them first, you'll turn the crank...so smack em a few times! :)
If you need any other info, feel free to ask. It's not as tough as people make it seem, at least mine wasn't.
Oh, by the way...if you want to change plug wires...this is the time to do it.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 6,272
Likes: 2
From: Chino Valley AZ
Cruise-In I Veteran
Cruise-In II Veteran
Currently Corvette-less
Re: Opti spark removal (emoshn)
I have an updated version of this procedure ~ but unfortunately it is on my home computer ..... but the basics are here. I hope it helps!
:seeya Purp
LT1 Balancer/Hub Removal
Unlike its SBC predecessor, the LT1 Balancer is a two piece assembly consisting of an (inner) hub, and (outer) balancer/pulley. Removal of the assembly can be frustrating if approached in the conventional way. By following the procedures below, you can safely and quickly remove the assembly with little or no problem.
1. Drain the radiator by opening the drain valve on the lower right hand (passenger side)
2. Remove the serpentine belt
3. Remove the upper radiator hose
4. Remove the water pump. When removing the LT1 water pump, it is important to remember that the LT1 water pump is attached to the engine with 3 bolts on each side, vs. its predecessor which only had 2 bolts on each side. The center bolt on the driver side is a challenge, but can be removed without removal of the power steering pump. When removing the water pump, take care to remove the pump drive coupler along with the pump and place it on the pump drive shaft for use when re-installing the pump.
5. Mark the coil wire and all plug wires at the OptiSpark cap for easy reference when re-installing the OptiSpark unit after balancer seal repairs have been completed.
6. NOTE: There is no need to separate the balancer pulley from the hub if you intend to pull the hub off anyway. The only time you need to separate the pulley from the hub is if you are simply changing the OptiSpark. There is a match mark that is cast into the balancer assembly that allows you to mate the two pieces together in the exact orientation that they come apart. If you intend to separate the balancer pulley from the hub, locate the marks and make note for re-assembly.
7. The balancer pulley is attached to the hub with three bolts. The bolts are 7/16” SAE standard, 14 threads per inch, ¾” length (not metric). Fully remove all three bolts, and if you intend to remove the unit as a complete assembly, jump to steps 9 thru 18. If you intend to separate the assembly, continue by rethreading one bolt by a couple of turns. It is now time to separate the pulley from the hub. Most pulleys have been found to be rusted in place and require considerable effort to separate from the hub. Spraying the inside of the pulley with penetrating oil helps. Do not strike the pulley with a hammer in your frustrated attempts to remove. The best method is to position yourself under the engine with a wooden dowel rod and one healthy hammer. Position the dowel on the inside portion of the balancer when striking it with the hammer. Do not hit on the outer diameter of the pulley as damage can and will occur.
8. After successfully separating the pulley from the hub, it is now time to unbolt and remove the OptiSpark module. As with the water pump, the OptiSpark module is driven by a coupler and care should be taken to remove the drive shaft and place with the OptiSpark module for use when re-installing the unit.
9. Finally, it is now time to remove the hub. The center bolt that holds the hub on the crankshaft snout is 7/16” fine thread (not metric). I have found that I can generally break the center bolt loose by placing a 6 sided socket on the bolt, with a ½” breaker bar attached. By striking the breaker bar with that healthy hammer you just used in step #7, you can break the torque on the bolt.
10. Fully remove the bolt, remove the washer from the bolt, then re-install the bolt by 3 full turns.
11. Re-read step #9. If you skip this step, you are a screwed pooch.
12. The “General” was thinking when he installed the power steering rack hydraulic lines as he has installed a loop in the lines that allow the use of a balancer puller without interference of the puller jack screw. Check it out, you will be glad that he did this.
13. Use a standard balancer puller that requires the use of 3 puller bolts that fit into 3 slots on the crab portion. Make sure that you use a tip on the jack screw end that is a flat rotating plate, not a sharp point, because you will eventually place the jack screw end directly on the head of the center bolt of the hub and you don’t want to damage it.
14. Next, select three new (or used) 7/16” bolts that are of sufficient length to slip thru the puller and fully thread into the hub where you previously removed the 3 bolts in step #7. If you do not have 3 – 7/16” bolts that are the proper length, you can use bolts that are slightly smaller than the tapped holes so you can slip them completely thru the hub. Make sure that the bolts are of sufficient length so that you can insert them completely thru the puller assembly and the hub, with a flat washer on each end, and a nut on the backside.
15. Rotate the entire hub assembly until the (^) mark is at the 12:00 position before removing the hub. When re-installing the hub, make sure that you install it back in the same orientation. This is a balance mark, and although it really won’t make too much difference if you fail to do this, it is there for a purpose, so try to do the right thing here.
16. Position the puller onto the front of the hub, with the jack end of the jack screw slid thru the power steering line loop, and attach as mentioned above.
17. You are now ready to slowly remove the hub from the crankshaft snout. As you turn the jack screw in a clockwise rotation, the hub will slide off the crankshaft. Keep doing this until you feel the hub come loose, or until you back it out against the shoulder of the center bolt.
18. You have successfully removed the balancer hub. Now, time to R&R that front seal assembly.
PurpleC4
:seeya Purp
LT1 Balancer/Hub Removal
Unlike its SBC predecessor, the LT1 Balancer is a two piece assembly consisting of an (inner) hub, and (outer) balancer/pulley. Removal of the assembly can be frustrating if approached in the conventional way. By following the procedures below, you can safely and quickly remove the assembly with little or no problem.
1. Drain the radiator by opening the drain valve on the lower right hand (passenger side)
2. Remove the serpentine belt
3. Remove the upper radiator hose
4. Remove the water pump. When removing the LT1 water pump, it is important to remember that the LT1 water pump is attached to the engine with 3 bolts on each side, vs. its predecessor which only had 2 bolts on each side. The center bolt on the driver side is a challenge, but can be removed without removal of the power steering pump. When removing the water pump, take care to remove the pump drive coupler along with the pump and place it on the pump drive shaft for use when re-installing the pump.
5. Mark the coil wire and all plug wires at the OptiSpark cap for easy reference when re-installing the OptiSpark unit after balancer seal repairs have been completed.
6. NOTE: There is no need to separate the balancer pulley from the hub if you intend to pull the hub off anyway. The only time you need to separate the pulley from the hub is if you are simply changing the OptiSpark. There is a match mark that is cast into the balancer assembly that allows you to mate the two pieces together in the exact orientation that they come apart. If you intend to separate the balancer pulley from the hub, locate the marks and make note for re-assembly.
7. The balancer pulley is attached to the hub with three bolts. The bolts are 7/16” SAE standard, 14 threads per inch, ¾” length (not metric). Fully remove all three bolts, and if you intend to remove the unit as a complete assembly, jump to steps 9 thru 18. If you intend to separate the assembly, continue by rethreading one bolt by a couple of turns. It is now time to separate the pulley from the hub. Most pulleys have been found to be rusted in place and require considerable effort to separate from the hub. Spraying the inside of the pulley with penetrating oil helps. Do not strike the pulley with a hammer in your frustrated attempts to remove. The best method is to position yourself under the engine with a wooden dowel rod and one healthy hammer. Position the dowel on the inside portion of the balancer when striking it with the hammer. Do not hit on the outer diameter of the pulley as damage can and will occur.
8. After successfully separating the pulley from the hub, it is now time to unbolt and remove the OptiSpark module. As with the water pump, the OptiSpark module is driven by a coupler and care should be taken to remove the drive shaft and place with the OptiSpark module for use when re-installing the unit.
9. Finally, it is now time to remove the hub. The center bolt that holds the hub on the crankshaft snout is 7/16” fine thread (not metric). I have found that I can generally break the center bolt loose by placing a 6 sided socket on the bolt, with a ½” breaker bar attached. By striking the breaker bar with that healthy hammer you just used in step #7, you can break the torque on the bolt.
10. Fully remove the bolt, remove the washer from the bolt, then re-install the bolt by 3 full turns.
11. Re-read step #9. If you skip this step, you are a screwed pooch.
12. The “General” was thinking when he installed the power steering rack hydraulic lines as he has installed a loop in the lines that allow the use of a balancer puller without interference of the puller jack screw. Check it out, you will be glad that he did this.
13. Use a standard balancer puller that requires the use of 3 puller bolts that fit into 3 slots on the crab portion. Make sure that you use a tip on the jack screw end that is a flat rotating plate, not a sharp point, because you will eventually place the jack screw end directly on the head of the center bolt of the hub and you don’t want to damage it.
14. Next, select three new (or used) 7/16” bolts that are of sufficient length to slip thru the puller and fully thread into the hub where you previously removed the 3 bolts in step #7. If you do not have 3 – 7/16” bolts that are the proper length, you can use bolts that are slightly smaller than the tapped holes so you can slip them completely thru the hub. Make sure that the bolts are of sufficient length so that you can insert them completely thru the puller assembly and the hub, with a flat washer on each end, and a nut on the backside.
15. Rotate the entire hub assembly until the (^) mark is at the 12:00 position before removing the hub. When re-installing the hub, make sure that you install it back in the same orientation. This is a balance mark, and although it really won’t make too much difference if you fail to do this, it is there for a purpose, so try to do the right thing here.
16. Position the puller onto the front of the hub, with the jack end of the jack screw slid thru the power steering line loop, and attach as mentioned above.
17. You are now ready to slowly remove the hub from the crankshaft snout. As you turn the jack screw in a clockwise rotation, the hub will slide off the crankshaft. Keep doing this until you feel the hub come loose, or until you back it out against the shoulder of the center bolt.
18. You have successfully removed the balancer hub. Now, time to R&R that front seal assembly.
PurpleC4
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 4,212
Likes: 10
From: Sun City West Az
Re: Opti spark removal (ittlfly)
Thanks guys for all the imput. I have been lucky so far and haven't had any real problems with either unit but I'm getting my "ducks" lined up well before hand. It's only a matter of time.....and I have saved the replys into my "forum notes" for future reference...thanks again :)
