I found my HVAC system problem, But so far I cant Find A new replacemt Blend Door Actuator.

Anyone have a part Number and where to buy A New Actuator.

Thanks

 

Are you sure it's the actuator and not the programmer? I don't know if they're stilll available new or not. Your best bet may be ebay or a vette bone yard like vette2vette.

 

I have a new programer and new BCM all the hose are good everything works but the blend door I wacthed it it is not moving.

I can move the door by hand but the actuator not working.

 

Check electrical conections at the blend door motor. That part is obsolete. I have an extra one for an 88. Dont know if its the same as yours. Good luck.

 

I will check the conetor one more time just to make sure.

Thanks

 

Just jumper it to voltage, Terminals N & M or Tan/Black and Yellow; or disconnect and reconnect the Battery and it should recalibrate - ie, the door should move from open to close and nothing else should work while it does this.

 

I gave it a try the actuator still not working.

Any more ideas.

Thanks

 

Then you need a new one - I checked www.acdelco.com and www. napaautoparts.com and none showed it so I guess that means used.

 

Here we Go As we all know by now trying to find parts for a 1986 Vett is getting harder everyday.
And as most of us supporting our families cuts in to our Vett funds.

And what I seen for a replacment Blend door acuator is over priced.

Here a cheeper way for now until someone make some Cheep replacment parts for our cars.

Remove both hush panels under the dash remove the Computer on the right side of the car 2 bolts.

Remove the heater box cover under the hood inboard side only Not fun at all.

Mount Cable **** and bracket I put mine next to the trany hump.
2 Self tapping screws work.










Route cable though trans hump to pass side of car.

Remove Blend door Actuator you Will break the little plastic clip for the conector push pull rod I just removed the rod from the blend door side it self.

Run cable though opening to the Blend door it self.









I used the Z bracket that came with the choke cable kit to mount the cable to the blend door it self USE METAL SELF LOCKING NUTS one side tighten down the cable after you figue out how much cable you going to need.
I used 2 washers that the cable locks to 1 bolt self locking nut though one side of the Z bracket.

Use anouther bolt on the other end of the Z bracket With 2 washers to attach to the blend door arm it self Dont tighten all the way so it can Pivot so the cable willn't bind up.



You going to have to bend the bracket to a 90 twist and cut one of them to make the mount under the dash to hold the other end of the cable after bracket is made adjust as need so the door closes and opens you hear when it's full close or open when you pull or push the chock **** lock the pinch clamp down.
I use 10/32 self locking nuts and bolts.

Mount the mounting bracket to heater box self tapping screws work well

Make sure it opens and closes and put the car back together.

MAKE SURE you don't have any sharp bends in the cable routing or it will bind up on you smouth flowing bends.

Good luck it took me about 3 hours to do this job by my self Air tools help alot 1/4 air rachet made my life much easyer on heater box bolts.

I also had to open up the bolt hole in the choke mounting bracket kit for the 10/32 bolts.

Cost Choke Kit from auto parts store $10.00 Had some screws botls and self locking already 3 hours of you time to do the job.

New Used Blend door acuator if you can find one about $150.00 to $220.00 and hope this fixes the problem.

 

Scored
I just picked up a Blend door acuator off Flee bay for $49.00

Ya Me

 

On my '89 convertible I mounted a choke cable in the same manner as the previous poster but instead of taking the heater housing apart to access the blend door I made a piece of linkage that slides on a tube mounted under the dash and turns 90 degrees to reach up past the computer to the rod that would have run from the blend door to the little motor. On the end of my linkage I welded a tab that has a hole in it which fits the plastic snap fitting on the door actuator rod. It's easier to do some of the assembly with the computer dropped out of the way. This approach avoided the nasty job of disassembling the heater box.

 

PICTURES we want pictures.

 

O.K. I posted a couple of pictures in 'my corvette photos' and under the category C4 mechanical. I haven't tried posting pictures before so I'm hoping it worked out.