C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Valve Spring Compressor

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Old May 24, 2010 | 08:50 AM
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Default Valve Spring Compressor

I'm going to be looking to swap in my LT4 springs and new 1.6RR in the next week on my 94 LT1. I don't plan on pulling the heads off the car. The valve spring compressor that I already own is the 'C' shaped type that cannot work with the heads on the engine. It looks like there are a few different types available. What do you guys recommend? Things like cost, ease of use, availability? I am also concerned about clearance considering the motor will be in the car and there is limited space to work. I will be going with compressed air to hold the valves in place.

Thanks for your input.
John
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Old May 24, 2010 | 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by jmgtp
I'm going to be looking to swap in my LT4 springs and new 1.6RR in the next week on my 94 LT1. I don't plan on pulling the heads off the car. The valve spring compressor that I already own is the 'C' shaped type that cannot work with the heads on the engine. It looks like there are a few different types available. What do you guys recommend? Things like cost, ease of use, availability? I am also concerned about clearance considering the motor will be in the car and there is limited space to work. I will be going with compressed air to hold the valves in place.

Thanks for your input.
John
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Old May 24, 2010 | 09:30 AM
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I believe it's either K-D tools or Lisle makes a lever style compressor that bolts to the rocker stud and works real good. They make a small two armed compressor that has a star wheel on top you turn to compress the spring but these can and will slip off at the worst possible moment.
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Old May 24, 2010 | 09:59 AM
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Yes, I did some googling and found a writeup done for an F-body LT1 and they used the 2 arm/wheel type compressor. The write-up did not mention any problems but in just looking at that tool it seemed like it could slip and cause big problems. The only upside I see to this tool is that it is compact whereas I am concerned that the lever type tool will have difficulty clearing the clutter of the engine bay.
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Old May 24, 2010 | 12:31 PM
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I have used the "star wheel" type, it works but it sucks. After you crank and uncrank that sucker 50 times on a seal change, you need a gloucosimine I.V. If you use it, wear gloves. I am going with the leverage type next time for sure. The time savings is worth it alone.
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Old May 24, 2010 | 12:43 PM
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Lever by far. The other type does slip off easier, as I tried both. In my shop manual it shows the GM tool that works kinda opposite the lever - instead of pulling medial to outside of head, it looks like it is already outside the head, and you just pull it closer to you. Looks like it still mounts to rocker shaft. Seems like it would be a little easier to use.
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Old May 24, 2010 | 01:09 PM
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I'm going to look for the lever kind. I know I've seen the 'wheel' kind locally and it may come down to what is available locally at a reasonable price. If I end up with the wheel kind I may just weld an old socket to the hand crank so I can use a 3/8" ratchet and not beat my hand up turning it.

Has anyone made their own? I think an angled or arcd piece of steel with 1 hole to mount the rocker pedestal with a nut and another that will clearance the keepers may just do it.
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Old May 24, 2010 | 03:39 PM
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Check out Moroso. Works like a charm!

Last edited by Weav's Vet; Dec 22, 2013 at 01:22 PM.
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Old May 24, 2010 | 07:22 PM
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I fashioned one out of the lever type after discovering a lack of clearance for the lever on my L98.
Would post a pic. but not allowed.
3 1/2" long, U shaped cutout at 1 end to access keepers,wood spacer on valve cover rail +-1/2" thick under the other end, hole in the middle over rocker stud and tighten down a rocker nut until the keepers are free. Also nice to have both hands free to work.
As far as compressed air, if the piston is at TDC the valves will not drop.
At first I shoved a piece of clothesline in the spark plug hole for insurance then found it was unnecessary. The seal will help to hold the valve up while being worked on. Just make sure the piston is up by turning the crank 90* at a time from #1 TDC.

Last edited by Joe B.; May 24, 2010 at 07:27 PM. Reason: clarification
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Old May 24, 2010 | 11:42 PM
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I tried two different styles, the kind with the star handle on top that grips the spring and compresses and one that bolts onto the stud. The bolt on was by far the best.
Here's a link to my experience when changing my valve seals.
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Old May 25, 2010 | 01:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Weav's Vet
Check out Moroso. Works like a charm!
I used one like this, but the Summit brand. I think it was a little cheaper than the Moroso but the same basic tool. The star handled one I wouldn't recommend to my worst enemy.
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Old May 25, 2010 | 01:01 PM
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Here's a pic. of my homemade compressor.

Last edited by Joe B.; Sep 6, 2012 at 09:03 AM.
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Old May 26, 2010 | 12:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Joe B.
Here's a pic. of my homemade compressor.
I like it!
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Old May 26, 2010 | 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Weav's Vet
Check out Moroso. Works like a charm!
That type is what I use.
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Old May 26, 2010 | 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by STL94LT1
That type is what I use.







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Old May 26, 2010 | 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by jmgtp
Yes, I did some googling and found a writeup done for an F-body LT1 and they used the 2 arm/wheel type compressor. The write-up did not mention any problems but in just looking at that tool it seemed like it could slip and cause big problems. The only upside I see to this tool is that it is compact whereas I am concerned that the lever type tool will have difficulty clearing the clutter of the engine bay.
This is the type I have and I changed my springs and valve seals about a month ago with no problems.
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