What all do I need to do to remove air/smog and egr?

 

Pretty sure you have to retune your ECM because when the egr is open and allowing exhaust into the intake the fuel needs to be leaned out. I also would be interested to know what else is needed, hope someone who has done this will chime in.

 

I didnt retune , plugs look good . No cat ...track car . Lost the air pump and all the lines , they had rust holes in them anyway .Car runs great
Got the TPIS air pump deleat braket

 

On an '86 you don't need to do anything to the ECM. You can remove it all and tuck the air diverter valve connectors away without setting any codes. If the check valves on your stock manifolds are faulty they will allow exhaust noise. If that's the case just unscrew them and thread on a cap.

 

You either disconnect the vac line to EGR valve ( saves having to take intake apart ) or you remove the valve and fit a blanking plate .Both ways there are no gases going anywhere unless your EGR valve is leaking

 

AIR you just yank off, put a pulley in place and leave the electronics disconnected. The vac line on the FPR needs to be connected somewhere. It will not cause an engine SES light. It doesnt do anything.

EGR will set a Code 32 unless you use the diode trick. I took mine off and didn't reprogram the chip and it still rarely set. You need a blockoff plate on the intake manifold and either headers or a way to block off the opening on the exhaust manifold. My webpage has the pros and cons of it all, click my name.

 

Well I removed all the smog tubing, gutted the fins inside the smog pump (and kept it for the sake of the pulley) disconnected the EGR valve and plugged the hole on the intake manifold where that tube goes to and no codes thrown, however im having a problem with the engine dont know if its related to a previous problem I have. When it was stock my tach gauge went crazy just about a month ago, but i think its just my tach filter since i dont hear my engine surging when idle or driving runs great still, but now i installed my new exhaust, hooker headers, straight pipe no cat, magna flow catback and had all the smog equipment hooked up including the EGR. Note that when my car was stock the tube that is supposed to run to the cat was gone, it was sawed off an inch after the check valve but it ran great with no problems. When i start the car it starts on fine but then after a min or so it starts surging, when im at a light it surges and sometimes it idles at the right rpms but when it does my car feels like it bouncing up and down alot. When i drive at low speeds its fine but at higher speeds my tach gauge goes crazy and I can hear my engine sort of surge like its strugling, kind of like when you leave your car in second gear and trying to drive it above 35mph. The one thing I do notice though is the sound of the engine does not match the tach reading, the tach is bouncing up and down from one extreme to another (it did this also when it was stock but I never heard the engine surge). I checked for any vacuum and intake leaks but i have none, I removed all the smog equipment and its still doing the same thing. I dont know if it ever had this problem when my tach screwed up and I couldn't hear it because of my stock exhaust and now that i have the new one I can hear it, or if they both are just two completely seperate problems. I heard that it might have something to do with the module inside the distributor, but i replaced that almost exactly a year ago this month, do they go out that fast? Or could it be the O2 sensor that goes into the left header? I also get this mild smell of gas or might be exhaust that i smell coming from under the driver side, but when i get out and go under it I dont smell it and when i pop up the hood I still dont smell it, its only when im inside the car. Please help me out on this, sorry that this looks like a life story but its been frustraing me for almost a week now.

 

What you say sounds indicative of the car dropping into a "limp home mode"

At what temperature (coolant) does this start happening? Over 160-170? If its running fine before those temps are reached then its a problem pointing to closed-loop operation, when the system reads the MAF input with the O2.

I would run diagnostics on the O2 sensor and MAF from the manual before anything else.

 

Yes it does run fine before those temps, after it then it begins to surge. The MAF is new a little less than a year old, however that O2 sensor is over 8yrs old. If what you say is right (which im certain you are) then I would have to put the blame on myself. Shame on me, but when I installed the headers I forgot to do one thing, which was making sure the O2 sensor fits in the bung hole which it didn't. The threads match but the hole at the end was too small to fit the head in. I tried grinding down the hole with the headers still on so I could fit it on right, but this is the part where i should get the slapping, I got lazy at it so I cut half of the fins off the head of the O2 sensor and managed to get it on there with like two threads. I also didn't want to take the header off because I spent hours trying to get it to fit right because I had all that junk in the way, and I had finally gotten the y-pipe to line up with both headers without it chaffing anything. Well, gona have to take a trip to the parts store and get me a new sensor and a tap and die set, I'll let you know what happens. Well thanks alot there vader86! So I guess the dark side is stronger haha.

 

If you smell gas in the car, there is a 3/16" line under the car about where the driver's seat is. there is a rubber hose that connects the two pieces of tubing, and the rubber hose rots.
Replace the hose, it's about 2 1/2" long, and the smell goes away

 

Hey just wana say thanks vader86, it was the O2 sensor, idles perfectly and to coupeguy2001 yeah i saw the hose i replaced it with a braided rubber hose. Many thanks guys!!