C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Motor Guru Please teach me

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Old May 31, 2010 | 06:12 PM
  #21  
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I'm not saying that at all, but to reach a 350 CHP on a L98 is takes a several expensive mods to the engine. You can't just put a mild cam, headers , and do intake porting. Go back and read my post about what it takes to hit 350 HP.

Last edited by BADDUCK; May 31, 2010 at 06:15 PM.
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Old May 31, 2010 | 06:45 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by BADDUCK
This is not a negotiation, I was trying to give the OP a realistic opinion based of his stock 350 engine. The mild mods you claim will exceed the CHP of the LT4 cars are just way too optimistic. As you admit you have no experience with TPI replacement intakes. GM engineers really couldn't improve horsepower too much in the C4 without going to short runner intakes like the LT intakes. The basic reason your estimates are badly flawed is the TPI intake. You can port the hell out of it and still not get much improvement. Remember, the TPI was developed for the 305 engine. 300 CHP would be about the limit for what you suggest.
Ok let me help you with something this and this indicate (to most anyway) humor.
Since that didnt work out so well let me try this approach.. for 2500 bucks he aint gonna buy an intake and heads.. you think 300 chp is all it will make fine (hell 270 would be 30 more than he has now and its not the point, making torque is).. Which the TPI intake was meant to do..and the intake requirements of a 305 C.I. engine and those of a 350 C.I. at the same 5500 rpm are not that different that porting and port matching wouldnt help it come very close to being adequate for the intended application as stated by the OPand within his budget. within its limitations the TPI works very well.
Now a daily driver and part time autocross car would benefit more from bottom end grunt and mid range torque and throttle response than an extra 50 hp up at 5000 rpm.. so if your gonna be making power at 3500 rpm..why is that TPI so inadequate for this use at least in this stage of his game?
(BTW having no experience with "replacement TPI" doesn't mean I don't have any experience with TPI, )

As to exceeding the "published" CHP ratings of an LT4.. sounds like I may have committed some form of heresy there, beats me, (that would be humor again)

Shamdave good luck with your project.
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Old May 31, 2010 | 07:00 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by shamdave
I am planning on rebuilding my engine...since i am an idiot (see shamdave and paint) and i insist on destroyi....i mean restoring my car my self here is my end goal. Please let me know your thoughts

I would like a driver that will light up the tires and cause some neck pain for my passenger,

I figure 300-400 horses to the ground would be good

I want to be able to drive it on vacation and melt the tires when i get there

It is an auto 85 with a tpi so here are my decisions

Carb or rebuild the TPI

What heads (new alumn re maned) or and machining do i do to the block?

Any one have any suggestions

Headers and exhaust?

will the trans and rear end be able to handle this? The trans was rebuild about 2 years ago.
If it were me, and I was going to keep the car for many years, I would invest the money in a 383 shortblock. Re-use everything else you have and upgrade the rest as budget allows.
But that's just me. Many good ways to spend $2500.
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Old May 31, 2010 | 07:06 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by BADDUCK
I'm not saying that at all, but to reach a 350 CHP on a L98 is takes a several expensive mods to the engine. You can't just put a mild cam, headers , and do intake porting. Go back and read my post about what it takes to hit 350 HP.
Just for the record.. It does not take megabucks to get 350 hp from a L98 or any other similar small block. Buy an edelbrock crate motor http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-45110 and make 310 hp and 375 ft lbs of torque..from a stock 8.5:1 gm bottom end with simple bolt on parts..heads/cam/carb and manifold (600 cfm carb BTW which Im sure the TPI would match since this all happens at 5500 rpm) for 4800 bucks??
they also sell a 9.5:1 motor that makes 435 hp.. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-45901/ at $7000 dollars these are complete motors, and that isnt a stroker or anything exotic..
So, sorry to disagree with you but it aint magic and it doesnt take "several expensive mods" to do it.. I would bet that if shamdave bolted those same parts on his existing L98 assuming its in decent shape and he would see similar results.
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Old May 31, 2010 | 07:09 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Pete K
If it were me, and I was going to keep the car for many years, I would invest the money in a 383 shortblock. Re-use everything else you have and upgrade the rest as budget allows.
But that's just me. Many good ways to spend $2500.
thats the best idea yet.. can you get the bottom end of a 383 together around 2500 bucks? that would be the top solution if you could..
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Old May 31, 2010 | 07:12 PM
  #26  
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Ok here is what i am thinking after all the advice (BTW all of it appreciated) and some research i have done 2 things are for sure
HP cost money
and more HP Less dependable (not always but you see where im going here)
So here is what i am thinking
With an oil pressure problem (dropping DOWN to 2-5 PSI @ idle)

I am going to pull it and rebuild what i have
Some day this will go to my grandson on 12/10/2031 so it will need to last a while

Mild cam
Headers
Bored .30 -.35 over
have the heads ported and refreshed
Get injectors and clean up the plenium
Nix the AC and O2 Pump

Drive her till she pukes rebuild and start again!
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Old May 31, 2010 | 07:27 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Bondami
thats the best idea yet.. can you get the bottom end of a 383 together around 2500 bucks? that would be the top solution if you could..
You can, if you are reusing your block (no core charge) and going with a flat tappet hydraulic cam.
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Old May 31, 2010 | 07:29 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by shamdave
Ok here is what i am thinking after all the advice (BTW all of it appreciated) and some research i have done 2 things are for sure
HP cost money
and more HP Less dependable (not always but you see where im going here)
So here is what i am thinking
With an oil pressure problem (dropping DOWN to 2-5 PSI @ idle)

I am going to pull it and rebuild what i have
Some day this will go to my grandson on 12/10/2031 so it will need to last a while

Mild cam
Headers
Bored .30 -.35 over
have the heads ported and refreshed
Get injectors and clean up the plenium
Nix the AC and O2 Pump

Drive her till she pukes rebuild and start again!
Pretty good plan. You might consider full RR's in the heads while they are being refreshed. Good Luck.
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Old May 31, 2010 | 07:29 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by shamdave
Ok here is what i am thinking after all the advice (BTW all of it appreciated) and some research i have done 2 things are for sure
HP cost money
and more HP Less dependable (not always but you see where im going here)
So here is what i am thinking
With an oil pressure problem (dropping DOWN to 2-5 PSI @ idle)

I am going to pull it and rebuild what i have
Some day this will go to my grandson on 12/10/2031 so it will need to last a while

Mild cam
Headers
Bored .30 -.35 over
have the heads ported and refreshed
Get injectors and clean up the plenium
Nix the AC and O2 Pump

Drive her till she pukes rebuild and start again!
Learn from my experiences. Do Not invest money in your stock iron castings. Overhaul them and put springs on that match the cam. You can invest many hundreds of dollars in them, and not have anywhere near good hp vs dollar value.
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Old Jun 1, 2010 | 08:02 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Pete K
Learn from my experiences. Do Not invest money in your stock iron castings. Overhaul them and put springs on that match the cam. You can invest many hundreds of dollars in them, and not have anywhere near good hp vs dollar value.
I found a nice 383 block and heads rated @ 310 hp and 400lb of torque on Jegs for every thing ill need is about 3600 do i may save my pennies and do that one instead.

I will convert over my TPI and get a hot Dist and away i go
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Old Jun 1, 2010 | 10:11 AM
  #31  
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Why not buy a stroker kit for about $1000 and a good set of heads for $1500?
the extras you will need are cam, gaskets, etc.
and a tune.
The tune would be around $200 and the gaskets about $100. Then there's hoses, etc.
Upgrade your intake and exhaust when you get another $1000-$1500 later. It will run just fine on the street with what you have.
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Old Jun 1, 2010 | 12:40 PM
  #32  
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Do double check that oil pressure reading.. if you only have 2-5 PSI at idle hot, the lifters should be clattering like mad and that engine should be making all sorts of unpleasant noises.. It would be time well spent.
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Old Jun 1, 2010 | 01:24 PM
  #33  
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Here's what GM says in the 96 Owners Manual; page 2-89:

" Oil pressure should be 20 to 80 psi (140 to 550 kPa). (In certain situations such as long, extended idles on hot days, it could read as low as 6 psi (40kPa) and still be considered normal.)"

Remember, the oil pressure gage is NOT linear. So with the pointer at a mid-way position does NOT mean the psi is half way between the lowest and highest marks on the gage. Shown on page 2-96.

Jake

My son, Ryan M. Cameron, graduated from West Point on 22 May 2010! He was commissioned as a 2nd Lieutenant and I pinned on his first pair of "Butter Bars" PROUDEST DAY OF MY LIFE!!
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Old Jun 1, 2010 | 04:10 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by JAKE
Here's what GM says in the 96 Owners Manual; page 2-89:

" Oil pressure should be 20 to 80 psi (140 to 550 kPa). (In certain situations such as long, extended idles on hot days, it could read as low as 6 psi (40kPa) and still be considered normal.)"

Remember, the oil pressure gage is NOT linear. So with the pointer at a mid-way position does NOT mean the psi is half way between the lowest and highest marks on the gage. Shown on page 2-96.

Jake

My son, Ryan M. Cameron, graduated from West Point on 22 May 2010! He was commissioned as a 2nd Lieutenant and I pinned on his first pair of "Butter Bars" PROUDEST DAY OF MY LIFE!!
Jake thanks for the info Thats good news, and you should be VERY proud of your son. Thank God for men and woman like your son. Some times we forget that its men and woman in our military that make this such an awesome country.
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Old Jun 1, 2010 | 11:10 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by coupeguy2001
Why not buy a stroker kit for about $1000 and a good set of heads for $1500?
the extras you will need are cam, gaskets, etc.
and a tune.
Good idea...maybe port the heads to cut price of heads in half.

Originally Posted by coupeguy2001
The tune would be around $200 and the gaskets about $100.
Who's tune are ya gonna bank on for $200?

Originally Posted by coupeguy2001
Upgrade your intake and exhaust when you get another $1000-$1500 later. It will run just fine on the street with what you have.
Or do it now with ported heads!
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Old Jun 1, 2010 | 11:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Bondami
Since that didnt work out so well let me try this approach.. for 2500 bucks he aint gonna buy an intake and heads.
Try again. Yes you can,,,EASILY!
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Old Jun 1, 2010 | 11:37 PM
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Originally Posted by JAKE
Here's what GM says in the 96 Owners Manual; page 2-89:

" Oil pressure should be 20 to 80 psi (140 to 550 kPa). (In certain situations such as long, extended idles on hot days, it could read as low as 6 psi (40kPa) and still be considered normal.)"

Remember, the oil pressure gage is NOT linear. So with the pointer at a mid-way position does NOT mean the psi is half way between the lowest and highest marks on the gage. Shown on page 2-96.

Jake

My son, Ryan M. Cameron, graduated from West Point on 22 May 2010! He was commissioned as a 2nd Lieutenant and I pinned on his first pair of "Butter Bars" PROUDEST DAY OF MY LIFE!!
His oil pressure is absolutely fine. He stated that he LOST 4-5 lbs after it got hot. and 30-40 lbs at idle is great. As a general rule, you need about 10lbs per 1000rpms. (6000rpms = needs 60 lbs of oil pressure). And, I agree, Gm is correct,
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Old Jun 2, 2010 | 05:06 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by vince86
His oil pressure is absolutely fine. He stated that he LOST 4-5 lbs after it got hot. and 30-40 lbs at idle is great. As a general rule, you need about 10lbs per 1000rpms. (6000rpms = needs 60 lbs of oil pressure). And, I agree, Gm is correct,
(it runs about 30-40 after hot and holds good.)
(It does drop to 2-5 lbs after it is hot @ idle.)

Read his post above again....He says his oil pressure drops to 2-5 lbs hot idle..(Nothing about Lost 4-5 lbs after hot)..And he is talking about running pressure being 30-40 lbs, not his idle pressure... If he puts a mechanical gauge on the motor and only has 2-5 lbs oil pressure hot idle...That ain't good..Oil pressure this low at idle can possible mean theres significant wear or some other problems....WW

Last edited by WW7; Jun 2, 2010 at 05:18 PM.
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Old Jun 2, 2010 | 05:17 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by shamdave
really? awesome it actually runs good no smokes or knocks the oil pressure is OK it runs about 30-40 after hot and holds good.
It does drop to 2-5 lbs after it is hot @ idle.

So what can i do to give her more go go and keep it dependable.
It has a performance chip and that about it not real sure where to go from there.

Please clarify thius: Does the oil pressure, when hot, drop TO 2-5 lbs OR does it only drop a total of 2-5 lbs? Big difference.

Jake

My son, Ryan M. Cameron, graduated from West Point on 22 May 2010! He was commissioned as a 2nd Lieutenant and I pinned on his first pair of "Butter Bars" PROUDEST DAY OF MY LIFE!!
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Old Jun 2, 2010 | 07:07 PM
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Im thinking 2-5 psi oil pressure is too low at a reasonable 700 rpm idle. I wouldn't be comfortable with it.

Last edited by Bondami; Jun 2, 2010 at 07:11 PM.
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