Ok so we got the exhuast off which gave us full view to the u-joints between the trans and the differential. Today we took out the drive shaft (the tube between the trans and differential). What do bad joints look like? or feel like. We took off one of the caps off the joints (where the bearings are) and the was a rough area on the main piece. so its time to buy some u-joints.

Another thing. I notiece a attaching peice on the top of the cat. conv. (the same type that the mufflers have) Except there is no place on the underside of my car it would attaach to. hmmmm any ideas?

PS
While i got all this stuff disconnected should do fix anything else.

 

When you pull the caps off of the u-joints there should be a whole bunch of needle bearings in there. A U-joint that has gone completely south will have no bearings left, maybe some powder.

 

Well, I can't shed any light on the "cat attaching piece" but if the trunion on the u-joint isn't smooth, no doubt about replacment. Be sure to replace with a high end units that are equipped with greasable fittings. BTW, I hope you marked the driveline in some fashion so that you can put it back exactly in the same orientation. If you are taking it to a machine shop to have the new ones pressed in, mark the yoke and driveline so you can be sure they put it back the same way it came out. I used the wife's nail polish (red). It worked well but she didn't appreciate it. :smash:

 

The cat hanger is discontinued.

 

Check current(May) issue of Corvette Fever. On pg 20 is an excellent article on this subject. It even shows good and bad U joints. Good Luck, Guy

 

I have heard that you should not use the greasable u-joints because they are weaker than those without the grease fitting. Is this only above a certain power level? My Mustang has u-joints without grease fittings, but it probably has around 2-3 times the power of my Corvette. I have also heard that if you do use the greasable u-joints to make sure that the corner where the grease fitting is is under compression and not tension (when the car is going forward) when it is mounted to prevent any problems.

 

I've heard the same thing too. I got the greasable ones because they were cheaper, $13 vs $26, $34 at NAPA :eek: and they had them in stock.(Spicers) My vette is basically stock, and pretty much a sane daily driver. When looking at them, the grease fitting is screwed in a lump on the u joint. For the non-greasable units, the hole just isn't drilled. Dont ask me why those are more $$ :confused: Anyway, if you can imagine this lump ground away, then it be no different then the other 7 areas which do not have the lump. So the lump can't be providing any more strength. The hole could be providing a weakness though, and if installed properly, as you describe, then this weakness is minimized. For a stock application, i can't see how 2x more $$ is going to provide any more protection.

I hope im not wrong about this, but has anyone experienced a failure with a stock application with properly installed, and lubed greasable units?

The only other problem i ran into is that the grease fitting appeared that maybe it might bind on the halfshaft when the suspension is fully extended. What i did was grease them up then put a plug instead of a zirk. This brought it flush and theres no way it can bind. Im not sure if binding is possible or not, i just made it for sure it can't.

Jim-K

 

Spicer makes a u-joint with zerts in the end caps and not on the trunion. That way you get the best of both worlds. ... greasable and strong. I bought mine that way cause I don't want to do this job again for a while.