I’ve had regular, standard VATS problem for a couple of years now on and off: no start > take key out > wait 5 mins > start > no problem. But today I was getting some beer at the store and she wouldn't start at all. I waited for up to 15 mins between cranks and eventually gave up and took the bus home :mad . I went back to the car 1 1/2 hours later and she started, but she took more cranking than usual. I got it home and now it won’t restart (4-5 hours now).

Symptoms:
-key turns
-engine doesn't turn (no starter)
-lights and gauges work
-voltage: 12+
-Trouble lights on dash: Engine Service, E-Brake, anti-lock (no security)

I tried cleaning the lock butt'y and both keys



[Modified by CptMorgan, 8:23 PM 3/19/2002]

 

I got so tired of the VATS crap that I installed the standard Eckler's bypass. Have not had a single problem since. Only down side is that my car is now vulnerable to theft. I believe that one of the other parts suppliers carries a bypass with a hidden on/off switch which would eliminate the theft problem. I feel for you man. I've been there soooo many times in the past and it sucks!

 

If the engine cranks, then it isn't VATS. VATS compares the measured pellet resistance to its memory and if the measured value isn't within a couple percent, then it will not close the start enable relay and the starter will not crank the engine. If it cranks and won't start, then you don't have spark, or you don't have fuel pressure, or you don't have air. Those three things are necessary for the engine to start. If the engine cranks but doesn't start, check for spark. Use a timing light and you can confirm that the spark is timed correctly too. If it cranks but won't start, put a voltmeter or small 12 v light across an injector socket (unplugged) and see if the injectors are getting pulses. Also check for fuel pressure at the shrader valve at the end of the fuel rail. The fuel pump comes on for 2 seconds when you crank and goes off. If the engine catches, the oil pressure rises and closes a switch that turns on the fuel pump. You can jump the oil pressure switch and see if the engine will start. If the engine will not crank, unplug the 2 pin connector from the ign sw contacts that make with the pellet and measure the resistance with the key in. It should be the same as the pellet. If over 10k ohms, your ign sw is defective. On my 87, the 2 pin connector is under the carpet by the steering column. The starter solenoid gets power through the start contacts in the ign sw, then to the start enable relay contacts (VATS turns this relay on), then to the clutch switch (xmsn selector sw if auto), then to the "s" terminal on the starter ( the start solenoid connection). You can jump the start enable relay contacts and the clutch switch to prove they are the cause.
For the life of me I cannot understand why members get fed up with the intermittent no start and bypass the VATS system. Why not find out what is wrong and fix it? I am on ignition switch #3 due to the pellet contacts wearing out(175k and driven every day). My VATS works. 99% of stolen cars have the column bashed and the ign sw jumped. If you bypass your VATS, your vette is an easy steal. Instead of installing a VATS bypass with an under dash switch, why not just replace the ignition switch?

 

Thanks jfb, The engine dosn't crank (edited above). I guess my next step is to get out the ohm meter and start measuring and jumping wires. Anyone else have any ideas?

 

try cleaning the inside of the ignition switch with alcohol

 

I just found the problem. The starter is hooped. It turns out I had ignition power going to the starter solenoid the whole time, but the solenoid was shorting out. I've also taken the starter out and bench tested it. The VATS appear to be working fine after all.