C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

To pull or not to pull?

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Old Jun 7, 2010 | 07:10 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Huntervangolf
... I guess money does play a part. But the bigger decision right now is...... If I'm going to pull the motor and do a complete rebuild I feel like then im planning on keeping this car for awhile. VS, replacing cam lifters etc if I'm only keeping the car for a year or two. ...
that's why I suggested the repair. Maybe $350-$400 for parts for the cam and lifters etc. You know the answer deep down on if you are going to upgrade vettes..other wise what could you gain by dropping in $4-$5k into an '85?
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Old Jun 7, 2010 | 10:01 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by 92ZR1WANNABE
You are totally right on the money with this.

If your pulling the motor and the car already has 100k on it, once the motor is on the stand you might as well have the bores cleaned up, new rings, new bearings, new cam, lifters, have the heads checked ect.

It adds up quick and gets expensive. You will however be far better off in the long run then simply tossing another set of lifters and a cam in it (while its in the car no less).
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Old Jun 7, 2010 | 10:05 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by mike100
other wise what could you gain by dropping in $4-$5k into an '85?
??? '85 ??? his car is a '96 LT4!
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Old Jun 7, 2010 | 10:21 PM
  #24  
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You almost HAVE to pull the motor for as much work is involved with an in-car cam swap, right? And...
I'd be scared to do all that work and have a new cam and lifter set fail from a little chunk of the old ones floating around in there. Not to mention what it could be doing throughout the engine.
If things look good when you get it apart (clean and within tolerences), you could "freshen it up" with rings, bearings, oil pump, and that new cam and lifters you're already in it for. Might get out of it with just a light hone to seat the new rings.
I'm optomistic.
Be patient and frugal.
Keep us posted, please. And good luck!
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Old Jun 7, 2010 | 10:44 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Huntervangolf
Can somebody give me a rough budget for the hotcam, opti, water pump, etc. And a rough budget number for a complete rebuild.
Hotcam=$300
Opti cap and rotor=$200
Rockers=$600
Studs=$50
Lifters=$110
Dyno tune=$500
Showing a C5 Z06 your C4 tail lights pulling away=Priceless
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Old Jun 8, 2010 | 12:17 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by lt4obsesses
Hotcam=$300
Opti cap and rotor=$200
Rockers=$600
Studs=$50
Lifters=$110
Dyno tune=$500
Showing a C5 Z06 your C4 tail lights pulling away=Priceless
Now if THAT doesn't help you make up your mind I don't know what will!
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Old Jun 8, 2010 | 10:45 AM
  #27  
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love it! But a hot cam is going to put ahead of a ZO6? I guess seriously, how hp are you talking a LT4 puts out with a hotcam. And is ther a better cam than a LT4 hotcam?
Originally Posted by lt4obsesses
Hotcam=$300
Opti cap and rotor=$200
Rockers=$600
Studs=$50
Lifters=$110
Dyno tune=$500
Showing a C5 Z06 your C4 tail lights pulling away=Priceless
Reply
Old Jun 8, 2010 | 12:00 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by lt4obsesses
Hotcam=$300
Opti cap and rotor=$200
Rockers=$600
Studs=$50
Lifters=$110
Dyno tune=$500
Showing a C5 Z06 your C4 tail lights pulling away=Priceless
Scorpion full roller rockers in ratio of choice = $222.00 - Flatlanderracing.com

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My son, Ryan M. Cameron, graduated from West Point on 22 May 2010! He was commissioned as a 2nd Lieutenant and I pinned on his first pair of "Butter Bars" PROUDEST DAY OF MY LIFE!!
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Old Jun 8, 2010 | 12:42 PM
  #29  
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Starting to get my hands around this, some more questions. Is a electric water pump worth it? What type of hp am i going to get from the hot cam? Any machine work besides the basics that is worth it? Porting worth it(how much$$)?
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Old Jun 8, 2010 | 12:56 PM
  #30  
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Contact Lloyd Elliot to see what he suggests on porting the heads and a matching cam package.
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Old Jun 8, 2010 | 02:00 PM
  #31  
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I say if you want to get by for the summer. Inspect ALL the lifters, check the cam lobes and ONLY replace the ones that are bad. New lifters and old cams sometimes do not break in properly. Use Molybendum break in grease. Change oil after breakin. Save your money and rebuild in the winter.
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Old Jun 8, 2010 | 09:39 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Huntervangolf
Starting to get my hands around this, some more questions. Is a electric water pump worth it? What type of hp am i going to get from the hot cam? Any machine work besides the basics that is worth it? Porting worth it(how much$$)?
With light clean-up and porting of the cylinder heads, HOT Cam, electric water pump, and catback exhaust my engine made 363rwhp (dynojet).

The electric water pump frees up 5-7 hp.

Unless you plan to keep the car for a long time (then 383) and assuming it wasn't burning oil...

- I'd pull the engine and strip it to the short block
- Inspect the cam bearings and if they look good...
- replace the cam & lifters
- new timing chain
- pull the #1 main cap and peek at the crank
- have the cylinder heads cleaned up/inspected and then do some light pocket porting and port match the intake side to the GM "7777" LT4 intake gasket
- Port the intake runners to match the "7777" gasket
- custom tune

reassemble and reinstall

If the bearings look bad or it smokes, then it's time for a more complete rebuild (= $$$)

You can do the above for ~$2,500-$3,000, with most of that due to gasket and cylinder head work.
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Old Jun 9, 2010 | 10:33 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by 96GS#007
With light clean-up and porting of the cylinder heads, HOT Cam, electric water pump, and catback exhaust my engine made 363rwhp (dynojet).

The electric water pump frees up 5-7 hp.

Unless you plan to keep the car for a long time (then 383) and assuming it wasn't burning oil...

- I'd pull the engine and strip it to the short block
- Inspect the cam bearings and if they look good...
- replace the cam & lifters
- new timing chain
- pull the #1 main cap and peek at the crank
- have the cylinder heads cleaned up/inspected and then do some light pocket porting and port match the intake side to the GM "7777" LT4 intake gasket
- Port the intake runners to match the "7777" gasket
- custom tune

reassemble and reinstall

If the bearings look bad or it smokes, then it's time for a more complete rebuild (= $$$)

You can do the above for ~$2,500-$3,000, with most of that due to gasket and cylinder head work.
Thank you for the info! Thats what im looking for. Ideas, suggestions, results, and costs from the knowledge base.
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Old Jun 9, 2010 | 10:36 AM
  #34  
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Kinda trivial but the main reason im not excited about pulling the motor is because of having to deal with the bellhousing/tranny again. replaced the clutch last year and became frustrated with trying to get to some bolts. But, welcome to the world of working on small high tec sports cars. Not like working on my tri 5s!

Last edited by Huntervangolf; Jun 9, 2010 at 10:38 AM.
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Old Jun 9, 2010 | 11:45 AM
  #35  
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The tranny bolts are pretty easy, and you don't have to unbolt the bellhousing to pull the engine. Last year I spun a rod bearing on my LT4 with about 46K on it. I pulled the engine myself, then took it to a shop that disassembled and inspected it, ground the crank, installed all new bearings and oil pump and timing chain, checked the heads for warpage, and reassembled it (my rings were fine and cylinders looked great) - I also bought a HotCam and had them install it. Cost me about $1600 in their parts and labor, plus a couple hundred for the cam, plus incidentals like hoist rental, etc.
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Old Jun 9, 2010 | 04:12 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by 96GS#007
With light clean-up and porting of the cylinder heads, HOT Cam, electric water pump, and catback exhaust my engine made 363rwhp (dynojet).

The electric water pump frees up 5-7 hp.

Unless you plan to keep the car for a long time (then 383) and assuming it wasn't burning oil...

- I'd pull the engine and strip it to the short block
- Inspect the cam bearings and if they look good...
- replace the cam & lifters
- new timing chain
- pull the #1 main cap and peek at the crank
- have the cylinder heads cleaned up/inspected and then do some light pocket porting and port match the intake side to the GM "7777" LT4 intake gasket
- Port the intake runners to match the "7777" gasket
- custom tune

reassemble and reinstall

If the bearings look bad or it smokes, then it's time for a more complete rebuild (= $$$)

You can do the above for ~$2,500-$3,000, with most of that due to gasket and cylinder head work.
Will this setup beat a C5? ZO6? and what type of crank hp is this?
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Old Jun 9, 2010 | 04:18 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by pianoguy
The tranny bolts are pretty easy, and you don't have to unbolt the bellhousing to pull the engine. Last year I spun a rod bearing on my LT4 with about 46K on it. I pulled the engine myself, then took it to a shop that disassembled and inspected it, ground the crank, installed all new bearings and oil pump and timing chain, checked the heads for warpage, and reassembled it (my rings were fine and cylinders looked great) - I also bought a HotCam and had them install it. Cost me about $1600 in their parts and labor, plus a couple hundred for the cam, plus incidentals like hoist rental, etc.
Im glad to hear that. And that price seems pretty reasonable!
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Old Jun 9, 2010 | 08:23 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Huntervangolf
Will this setup beat a C5? ZO6? and what type of crank hp is this?
Pretty even with the outcome dependent on the driver IMO. The Z06s are really strong. More importantly they weigh ~250lbs less than a typical '96 LT4 coupe.

From a crank hp perspective it's in the 425 - 430 range.
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