Have to hold key down for about 4 seconds to get it started?
#21
Team Owner
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St. Jude Donor '09-'10, '14
Ohm your injectors. There's a sticky calderone made on how to change injectors that he also shows how to ohm the injectors if you don't know how to. It will require a multimeter.
If you have good pressure it's really starting to indicate bad injectors but ohm them and see. You still may not get a conclusive answer though. Sometimes injectors will clog up. For an easy and cheap looksee you could run some injector cleaner or Seafoam your fuel system if the injectors ohm ok and see if that helps any.
Just throwing out some ideas.
If you have good pressure it's really starting to indicate bad injectors but ohm them and see. You still may not get a conclusive answer though. Sometimes injectors will clog up. For an easy and cheap looksee you could run some injector cleaner or Seafoam your fuel system if the injectors ohm ok and see if that helps any.
Just throwing out some ideas.
#22
Pro
NOTE: The car was hot doing my testing and I still had the hard start during the testing.
Ok, I got a fuel pressure gauge and it stays at 40 atfter I put the car to run. After the car starts it actually goes up a little but never goes down. I had the car running and disconnected the Fuel Pressure Regualtor and the pressure went up 10 psi just as I read it should.
The only thing I can think is wrong now is the spark
Ok, I got a fuel pressure gauge and it stays at 40 atfter I put the car to run. After the car starts it actually goes up a little but never goes down. I had the car running and disconnected the Fuel Pressure Regualtor and the pressure went up 10 psi just as I read it should.
The only thing I can think is wrong now is the spark
You never said what the reading was after you turned the car off.
Just prime the system, don't crank it or start it- the fuel pump should run when putting the key to the "on" position(the pressure reading should go up to about 40psi)-then turn it off and that's when you check to see if the pressure holds. If it goes to zero fairly quickly, it's a bad check valve. Good luck!!
Last edited by Bubba91; 06-19-2010 at 08:15 AM.
#23
Melting Slicks
I really think you are looking at injectors some leaking down after you shout the car down flooding the car when you go to start it up. Try this next time you try to start it hold the gas pedal down about 1/4 ways down or even all the way down (clear flood mode) you are just letting more air in and see if that helps. If it does I would be calling FIC for injectors.
#24
I really think you are looking at injectors some leaking down after you shout the car down flooding the car when you go to start it up. Try this next time you try to start it hold the gas pedal down about 1/4 ways down or even all the way down (clear flood mode) you are just letting more air in and see if that helps. If it does I would be calling FIC for injectors.
I will give that a shot. Right now I am in the process of changing out all the spark plugs to see if its a spark issue. After pulling a couple plugs they are all very messed up, and the gap is not correct either. Hope its the plugs!!!!
#25
I just went through this too-
You never said what the reading was after you turned the car off.
Just prime the system, don't crank it or start it- the fuel pump should run when putting the key to the "on" position(the pressure reading should go up to about 40psi)-then turn it off and that's when you check to see if the pressure holds. If it goes to zero fairly quickly, it's a bad check valve. Good luck!!
You never said what the reading was after you turned the car off.
Just prime the system, don't crank it or start it- the fuel pump should run when putting the key to the "on" position(the pressure reading should go up to about 40psi)-then turn it off and that's when you check to see if the pressure holds. If it goes to zero fairly quickly, it's a bad check valve. Good luck!!
#28
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Feb 2010
Location: California City Ca
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My 86 did this after a while it got worse and started thorwing a fuel pump code it ended up being the Fuel pump relay.
It was $20.00 at napa.
I also Priced Fuel Pumps the best price I found was on Amazon It was a Factory Delco for $28.00 plus shipping.
Do the Fuel pump relay first it easy to replace before you do the fuel pump thats more or less easy also to get at.
It was $20.00 at napa.
I also Priced Fuel Pumps the best price I found was on Amazon It was a Factory Delco for $28.00 plus shipping.
Do the Fuel pump relay first it easy to replace before you do the fuel pump thats more or less easy also to get at.
#29
My 86 did this after a while it got worse and started thorwing a fuel pump code it ended up being the Fuel pump relay.
It was $20.00 at napa.
I also Priced Fuel Pumps the best price I found was on Amazon It was a Factory Delco for $28.00 plus shipping.
Do the Fuel pump relay first it easy to replace before you do the fuel pump thats more or less easy also to get at.
It was $20.00 at napa.
I also Priced Fuel Pumps the best price I found was on Amazon It was a Factory Delco for $28.00 plus shipping.
Do the Fuel pump relay first it easy to replace before you do the fuel pump thats more or less easy also to get at.
I replaced my Spark Plugs and oil today. It still took awhile to start but after I took the car for a ride I think it might be starting better, (could just be because the system was in use) tommorow will be the real test after it's been sitting through the night.
Thanks again everyone!!
#30
Burning Brakes
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The fuel pump still works but it takes longer to kick in so it takes longer to start.
I thought if you hear the fuel pump pumping when you put the car to "on" that means the fuel pump relay is still good?
I replaced my Spark Plugs and oil today. It still took awhile to start but after I took the car for a ride I think it might be starting better, (could just be because the system was in use) tommorow will be the real test after it's been sitting through the night.
Thanks again everyone!!
I replaced my Spark Plugs and oil today. It still took awhile to start but after I took the car for a ride I think it might be starting better, (could just be because the system was in use) tommorow will be the real test after it's been sitting through the night.
Thanks again everyone!!
#31
#32
After replacing the spark plugs all I noticed is that when the car finally does start it starts a lot faster and better.
I still have to hold the key down a good 4 seconds to get it start though......
Weirds bit is that if I hold it down for 1 or 2 seconds let go, then try to turn it over again it starts instantly....... Anyone have any ideas?
Fuel pressure is good all the time, spark plugs are good... I guess fuel injectors are the last thing, I have already started putting injector cleaner in it.
One last thought... could it be my starter? Or does when a starter goes bad it just doesn't work at all....
Thanks
I still have to hold the key down a good 4 seconds to get it start though......
Weirds bit is that if I hold it down for 1 or 2 seconds let go, then try to turn it over again it starts instantly....... Anyone have any ideas?
Fuel pressure is good all the time, spark plugs are good... I guess fuel injectors are the last thing, I have already started putting injector cleaner in it.
One last thought... could it be my starter? Or does when a starter goes bad it just doesn't work at all....
Thanks
#33
Safety Car
After replacing the spark plugs all I noticed is that when the car finally does start it starts a lot faster and better.
I still have to hold the key down a good 4 seconds to get it start though......
Weirds bit is that if I hold it down for 1 or 2 seconds let go, then try to turn it over again it starts instantly....... Anyone have any ideas?
Fuel pressure is good all the time, spark plugs are good... I guess fuel injectors are the last thing, I have already started putting injector cleaner in it.
One last thought... could it be my starter? Or does when a starter goes bad it just doesn't work at all....
Thanks
I still have to hold the key down a good 4 seconds to get it start though......
Weirds bit is that if I hold it down for 1 or 2 seconds let go, then try to turn it over again it starts instantly....... Anyone have any ideas?
Fuel pressure is good all the time, spark plugs are good... I guess fuel injectors are the last thing, I have already started putting injector cleaner in it.
One last thought... could it be my starter? Or does when a starter goes bad it just doesn't work at all....
Thanks
You said she runs and idles fine right?
#34
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Feb 2010
Location: California City Ca
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Go buy a $20.00 Relay before you go buy Injectors.
It's plug and start.
It's plug and start.
After replacing the spark plugs all I noticed is that when the car finally does start it starts a lot faster and better.
I still have to hold the key down a good 4 seconds to get it start though......
Weirds bit is that if I hold it down for 1 or 2 seconds let go, then try to turn it over again it starts instantly....... Anyone have any ideas?
Fuel pressure is good all the time, spark plugs are good... I guess fuel injectors are the last thing, I have already started putting injector cleaner in it.
One last thought... could it be my starter? Or does when a starter goes bad it just doesn't work at all....
Thanks
I still have to hold the key down a good 4 seconds to get it start though......
Weirds bit is that if I hold it down for 1 or 2 seconds let go, then try to turn it over again it starts instantly....... Anyone have any ideas?
Fuel pressure is good all the time, spark plugs are good... I guess fuel injectors are the last thing, I have already started putting injector cleaner in it.
One last thought... could it be my starter? Or does when a starter goes bad it just doesn't work at all....
Thanks
#35
The questions is though if it's a bad relay would I have low fuel pressure at any point, because I never lost pressure even when turning the car over during the hard start........ but I see your point since it kicks in instantly after trying to start it a second time (like it started something in motion). Do you have any idea where the feul relay is located?
Starter doesn't sound weak.
I bought the car 3 weeks ago, the guy I bought it from said it was sitting for almost a year but the last 2 months before I bought it, he was driving it regularly. I just put a full tank of gas (regular) in it. Note: The car was having the hard start since day 1 when I went to test drive the car.
Really appreciate all your help everyone!
Starter doesn't sound weak.
I bought the car 3 weeks ago, the guy I bought it from said it was sitting for almost a year but the last 2 months before I bought it, he was driving it regularly. I just put a full tank of gas (regular) in it. Note: The car was having the hard start since day 1 when I went to test drive the car.
Really appreciate all your help everyone!
#36
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Feb 2010
Location: California City Ca
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On my 86 it on the firewall inboard of the brake booster.
When I purchased my it sat outside in a dirt field for the last 7 years last time it was ran was 3 years ago untill 4 months ago it started fine at first then after a month it acted like your is doing.
I put new(FJC) injectors in mine I didn't have to but I did for my own mine sake.
QUOTE=Mustang_Eater;1574458611]The questions is though if it's a bad relay would I have low fuel pressure at any point, because I never lost pressure even when turning the car over during the hard start........ but I see your point since it kicks in instantly after trying to start it a second time (like it started something in motion). Do you have any idea where the feul relay is located?
Starter doesn't sound weak.
I bought the car 3 weeks ago, the guy I bought it from said it was sitting for almost a year but the last 2 months before I bought it, he was driving it regularly. I just put a full tank of gas (regular) in it. Note: The car was having the hard start since day 1 when I went to test drive the car.
Really appreciate all your help everyone! [/QUOTE]
When I purchased my it sat outside in a dirt field for the last 7 years last time it was ran was 3 years ago untill 4 months ago it started fine at first then after a month it acted like your is doing.
I put new(FJC) injectors in mine I didn't have to but I did for my own mine sake.
QUOTE=Mustang_Eater;1574458611]The questions is though if it's a bad relay would I have low fuel pressure at any point, because I never lost pressure even when turning the car over during the hard start........ but I see your point since it kicks in instantly after trying to start it a second time (like it started something in motion). Do you have any idea where the feul relay is located?
Starter doesn't sound weak.
I bought the car 3 weeks ago, the guy I bought it from said it was sitting for almost a year but the last 2 months before I bought it, he was driving it regularly. I just put a full tank of gas (regular) in it. Note: The car was having the hard start since day 1 when I went to test drive the car.
Really appreciate all your help everyone! [/QUOTE]
Last edited by Marv02; 06-21-2010 at 12:17 AM.
#37
Safety Car
Maybe the injectors are clogged up... Do you have any problems at wot (wide open throttle)? If its been sitting they could have gunked up a little...
How does the fuel pressure behave when you give it a few revs?
How does the fuel pressure behave when you give it a few revs?
#39
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Aug 1999
Location: Baltimore, MD USA
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Long crank time on the 89 TPI (which was the same year the cold start injector was eliminated) is a know quirk.
Assuming you don't have a mechanical or electrical problem, a person
on Thirdgen.org came up with a solution for the long crack time back in 2001.
The picture below shows a table contained inside the Eprom
(engine calibration memory chip) which shows for the first 8 ignition
reference pulses, the fuel injector pulse width multiplier is 0. So the
injectors are not pulsed during the cranking of the engine until the
engine makes a couple of revolutions.
With the proper hardware/equipment and software, you can reprogram the Eprom
which will resolve the long crank time.
Click on the thread below.
http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/di...ong-crank.html
This is what the table looks like.
Assuming you don't have a mechanical or electrical problem, a person
on Thirdgen.org came up with a solution for the long crack time back in 2001.
The picture below shows a table contained inside the Eprom
(engine calibration memory chip) which shows for the first 8 ignition
reference pulses, the fuel injector pulse width multiplier is 0. So the
injectors are not pulsed during the cranking of the engine until the
engine makes a couple of revolutions.
With the proper hardware/equipment and software, you can reprogram the Eprom
which will resolve the long crank time.
Click on the thread below.
http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/di...ong-crank.html
This is what the table looks like.
Last edited by Hooked on Vettes; 06-21-2010 at 11:19 AM.
#40
Long crank time on the 89 TPI (which was the same year the cold start injector was eliminated) is a know quirk.
Assuming you don't have a mechanical or electrical problem, a person
on Thirdgen.org came up with a solution for the long crack time back in 2001.
The picture below shows a table contained inside the Eprom
(engine calibration memory chip) which shows for the first 8 ignition
reference pulses, the fuel injector pulse width multiplier is 0. So the
injectors are not pulsed during the cranking of the engine until the
engine makes a couple of revolutions.
Assuming you don't have a mechanical or electrical problem, a person
on Thirdgen.org came up with a solution for the long crack time back in 2001.
The picture below shows a table contained inside the Eprom
(engine calibration memory chip) which shows for the first 8 ignition
reference pulses, the fuel injector pulse width multiplier is 0. So the
injectors are not pulsed during the cranking of the engine until the
engine makes a couple of revolutions.
Maybe the injectors are clogged up... Do you have any problems at wot (wide open throttle)? If its been sitting they could have gunked up a little...
How does the fuel pressure behave when you give it a few revs?
How does the fuel pressure behave when you give it a few revs?
I never have any problems once the car is started, when I rev it I don't lose fuel pressure and when I'm out driving it I don't ever stall or anything. Just the idle I mention above.