C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Distributor cap removal

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Old Jun 25, 2010 | 11:06 PM
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Default Distributor cap removal

Now I'm feeling stupid. Washed the engine and now it will not start. Was going to remove the dist. cap and rotor and dry things out. But can't figure how to remove the cap. Any help?
1985 Vette, 4X3
Thanks
Chuck
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Old Jun 25, 2010 | 11:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Dryoo7
Now I'm feeling stupid. Washed the engine and now it will not start. Was going to remove the dist. cap and rotor and dry things out. But can't figure how to remove the cap. Any help?
1985 Vette, 4X3
Thanks
Chuck
There should be 2 I think screws that are spring loaded on the cap push them down and turn to undo the cap.
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Old Jun 25, 2010 | 11:44 PM
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Sorry, but the 85 has a screw down cap without and springs or "L" shaped swings arms....just four (4) screws.
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Old Jun 25, 2010 | 11:57 PM
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Originally Posted by John A. Marker
Sorry, but the 85 has a screw down cap without and springs or "L" shaped swings arms....just four (4) screws.
Yep...If it's like my 89, there are 4 screws around the base of the plastic cap. They are the same size as the hex in my electric screwdriver and those hex utility sets you can buy at the hardware store. (You know...with torx, allen, screwdriver bits, etc....)

Backout all 4 screws. There is a point where they'll release but stay in the cap. Don't try to removed them completely from the cap. Just make sure they're out of the metal base.

The cap fits VERY tight. You'll have to push the top of the cap sideways a bit to pop it off.

When you go to reinstall, notice the notch in the cap fits only one place in the base.

Do NOT loosen the bolt at the base or your timing will be changed. If you pull the plug wires, mark them so you remember which hole they go back in.

If there's a lot of miles on the car, replace the cap and rotor before installation.
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Old Jun 26, 2010 | 05:15 AM
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Originally Posted by GREGGPENN
Yep...If it's like my 89, there are 4 screws around the base of the plastic cap. They are the same size as the hex in my electric screwdriver and those hex utility sets you can buy at the hardware store. (You know...with torx, allen, screwdriver bits, etc....)

Backout all 4 screws. There is a point where they'll release but stay in the cap. Don't try to removed them completely from the cap. Just make sure they're out of the metal base.

The cap fits VERY tight. You'll have to push the top of the cap sideways a bit to pop it off.

When you go to reinstall, notice the notch in the cap fits only one place in the base.

Do NOT loosen the bolt at the base or your timing will be changed. If you pull the plug wires, mark them so you remember which hole they go back in.

If there's a lot of miles on the car, replace the cap and rotor before installation.

good info
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Old Jun 26, 2010 | 07:14 AM
  #6  
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IIRC the bolts are 5.5mm.
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Old Jun 26, 2010 | 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by c-4 lhozwalte
IIRC the bolts are 5.5mm.
Or 1/4 inch. Both fit.
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Old Jun 26, 2010 | 04:22 PM
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Thanks for the help guys. The four are so small I couldn't see them in the afternoon light. What a tight fit.
Chuck
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Old Jun 26, 2010 | 08:33 PM
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Be careful when replacing the cap because sometimes the wires can get caught under the cap and can be cut if not routed correctly through the little notch opening.

Jake

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Last edited by JAKE; Jun 26, 2010 at 08:36 PM.
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Old Jun 27, 2010 | 08:53 PM
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Hey, this happened to my '84 when I was just rinsing out the engine with a little water. I didn't take anything appart, just let the car sit in the sun with the hood up for 2-3 days at least. It will dry out. Funny, last week I droped my cell phone in water and after letting the thing sit in rice (draws the moisture out) and sun for about a week the thing worked again. Good luck.
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Old Jun 27, 2010 | 09:21 PM
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From: levittown pa. usa Even a bad day with my `Vette, is better than a good day at work
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Originally Posted by GREGGPENN

Do NOT loosen the bolt at the base or your timing will be changed. If you pull the plug wires, mark them so you remember which hole they go back in.
If you mix up the plug wires, it is possible to spend many fun hours trying to get them right. I know from personal experience
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Old Jun 27, 2010 | 10:30 PM
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If you really must: There are 3 bolts holding the coil cap down - remove and pull the coil cap out, pull the wires out from the connectors. Then pull out all the spark plug wires (number them if you don't remember where they go back). Then you will turn 4 "J type hook screws" until the distributor cap pulls off. Then remove the bolts from the rotor and remove. Once you get all the parts out then I don't know what you have in mind to dry them out with. I know my pictures suck but these are all I have at the moment.

As the guys said above you should not be removing the entire distributor cap, to do this you would have to get into a very tight space at the bottom with a 5/8 wrench. The fear is that you won't know how to put it back and screw up the timing and would require another thread on how to do that.







Good luck.

Last edited by black88z51; Jun 27, 2010 at 10:35 PM.
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Old Jun 28, 2010 | 08:27 PM
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Mine do not have J hooks. Those little 1/4" buggers. I have to use a magnetic 1\4" extention tool to re-set the screws. What a nightmare.
Chuck
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