could it be electrical? ran all new fuel line (supply line) with a remote fuel filter in the engine compartment. the problem im having is the car wont stay running, it starts then stalls out after about 30 secs to 1 min,like its flooding it self, then after doing start & restart for about 3-5 times it gets to the point where it wont start at all. i noticed that the passanger side header is very hot to the touch but the drivers side i can hold with my hand. I know that all cylinders are getting good spark. I just orderd all new fuel injectors(needed to replace old stock ones any way) had a new PROM chip programmed, new ECM & new ignition module,and installed a BBK fuel pressure regulator. Should have all parts this week to put back togeather, but in the mean time trying to get info. seems like the drivers side fuel injectors are not working.

 

Could it be electrical? Well, it could be anything that prevents engines from running and when they won't run you do some testing to find out why. Engines need a hot spark and spark at the right time, they need fuel and air and in the correct ratio and they need cylinder compression to start and to continue running. You are missing one or more of these vital elements. Use a timing light to see if you have spark at the right time during cranking. Pull a plug boot and bring a grounded wire near the inside of the boot while someone cranks, you should have a snappy spark at least 1/2" long. Measure the fuel pressure, it should be 35-42 psi and it should hold up for at least 30 minutes with the ign off. If it drops rapidly, you have leaky injector/s or a defective fuel pressure regulator check valve. Use a noid light plugged into each bank injector wiring socket and see if it pulses during cranking. You can make your own noid light with an LED (light emitting diode) and a series 680 ohm resistor, the homemade light must be connected to an unplugged injector socket with the correct polarity though. Measure the injector coil resistance, they should be about 16 ohms, although an ohmeter can only find gross coil failures. A turn to turn short in the coil cannot be found with an ohmeter and it will prevent the injector from working properly. The best electrical test would be with an impedance bridge which measures the coil inductance and Q and can easily find a turn to turn short. Use your ohmeter and check both injector fuses. Spray starting fluid into the MAF and see if the engine starts, if it does, you have a fuel delivery problem. One hot bank you noticed indicates either no fuel or too much fuel to the cold bank, do you get black smoke out the exhaust? That indicates excessive fuel. Last, measure cylinder compression if everything measures ok.
The most expensive way to fix an engine is to start putting new parts on it and not measure a thing. I recommend testing first!

 

thank you for all the info, this week ill be installing new injectors(needed any way) new ECM with reprogrammed to my specs PROM chip, so the plan is to check voltages & fuel pressure before i crank it over. hopefully everything will check out ok, ill let you know.thank you for your help