clutch bleeding method question
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 3,323
Likes: 142
From: Green Valley Arizona
clutch bleeding method question
Have a '95 with the slave bleeder on the bottom so normal bleeding does not work....but instead of using a pump to push fluid from the bottom up,......would it work to fill the system with fluid from the top, take the slave off of the transmission and push the plunger in with the bleeder screw closed so that air will travel up to the master?
Comments wanted.
Comments wanted.
Race Director
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 12,772
Likes: 17
From: Indianapolis IN
That will work and I have done it that way a few times.
or get the back of the car higher than the front, like on a hill or jack stands and pump the pedal, really, most times they self bleed in this
or get the back of the car higher than the front, like on a hill or jack stands and pump the pedal, really, most times they self bleed in this
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 9,226
Likes: 9
From: Irvine Ca
What you have to do with the slave is......take it loose from the bell housing open it up and fill it by hand or by using a plunger all the way to the rim....then close it back again...and without allowing it to flip the wrong way carefully replace it on the bell housing not allowing any air to get back in the Slave.
The Line is a wonderful self bleeding design...you merely need to take the car on a nice drive to get the line to bleed out.
Last resort.......and being very careful....using the "pump, hold, release" commands to someone sitting in the car.....listen.....
take off the slave and while all lines are hooked up...You allow the slave to reach the limits.......and the pedal gets hard like a brake but much stiffer.......if the person pushing the clutch pedal is a lead foot, they'll force the piston to shoot out the end of the slave....but if they are soft....you can do the standard pump bleed...but this is risky as the person inside may not understand NOT to force the pedal.......you close the valve and they keep pushing.....your piston shoots out and now you are in a world of hurt...
The Line is a wonderful self bleeding design...you merely need to take the car on a nice drive to get the line to bleed out.
Last resort.......and being very careful....using the "pump, hold, release" commands to someone sitting in the car.....listen.....
take off the slave and while all lines are hooked up...You allow the slave to reach the limits.......and the pedal gets hard like a brake but much stiffer.......if the person pushing the clutch pedal is a lead foot, they'll force the piston to shoot out the end of the slave....but if they are soft....you can do the standard pump bleed...but this is risky as the person inside may not understand NOT to force the pedal.......you close the valve and they keep pushing.....your piston shoots out and now you are in a world of hurt...
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 12,221
Likes: 446
From: Overland Park Kansas
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (appearance mods)
C4 of Year Winner (appearance mods) 2019
Per Bill at ZFDoc....
First he says it's helpful if you can prefill a new slave before attaching it to the hose. (I could do that since my motor was out.)
I used a syringe from the pharmacy to facilitate easier slave filling. I used the largest bore needle in addition to the syringe. This helped "fire" fluid in w/o bubbling at the bung-hole.
Bleeding process w/o the use of a reverse bleeder....
With driver’s door opened all the way, stand outside the vehicle looking down into the reservoir while reaching around with right hand in through the door opening repeatedly depressing the clutch pedal one inch travel with finger tips until no longer seeing air bubbles rising in the reservoir. If the fluid becomes cloady, wait a few minutes for the bubbles to settle out then resume process.
Remember, this system is supposed to be self-bleeding! I think you're right that having the rear of the car raised, helps.
Comments in red are mine.
I used a syringe from the pharmacy to facilitate easier slave filling. I used the largest bore needle in addition to the syringe. This helped "fire" fluid in w/o bubbling at the bung-hole.
Bleeding process w/o the use of a reverse bleeder....
With driver’s door opened all the way, stand outside the vehicle looking down into the reservoir while reaching around with right hand in through the door opening repeatedly depressing the clutch pedal one inch travel with finger tips until no longer seeing air bubbles rising in the reservoir. If the fluid becomes cloady, wait a few minutes for the bubbles to settle out then resume process.
Remember, this system is supposed to be self-bleeding! I think you're right that having the rear of the car raised, helps.
Comments in red are mine.
Last edited by GREGGPENN; Jun 28, 2010 at 01:00 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 12,221
Likes: 446
From: Overland Park Kansas
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (appearance mods)
C4 of Year Winner (appearance mods) 2019
ZF slave bleeding idea
Connect a 6' section of vacuum hose over the bleeder valve using a small hose clamp. (pre-open and barely shut the valve).
Put the other end in the clutch master reservoir.
Use two man method of open, press, close.
As long as the clamp holds the hose on the bleeder, fluid will run up the hose and into the reservoir. Anything trying to run backwards will be fluid vs air. So, air should be forced out after 1 complete trip around the "hoop".
(Of course tighten bleeder before removing hose and let any in the hose drain into a pan.)
Put the other end in the clutch master reservoir.
Use two man method of open, press, close.
As long as the clamp holds the hose on the bleeder, fluid will run up the hose and into the reservoir. Anything trying to run backwards will be fluid vs air. So, air should be forced out after 1 complete trip around the "hoop".
(Of course tighten bleeder before removing hose and let any in the hose drain into a pan.)
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 3,286
Likes: 6
From: Palm Beach
No fair. I already announced my intentions to do the same thing when my parts came in. Did it two days ago. Worked great.
Connect a 6' section of vacuum hose over the bleeder valve using a small hose clamp. (pre-open and barely shut the valve).
Put the other end in the clutch master reservoir.
Use two man method of open, press, close.
As long as the clamp holds the hose on the bleeder, fluid will run up the hose and into the reservoir. Anything trying to run backwards will be fluid vs air. So, air should be forced out after 1 complete trip around the "hoop".
(Of course tighten bleeder before removing hose and let any in the hose drain into a pan.)
Put the other end in the clutch master reservoir.
Use two man method of open, press, close.
As long as the clamp holds the hose on the bleeder, fluid will run up the hose and into the reservoir. Anything trying to run backwards will be fluid vs air. So, air should be forced out after 1 complete trip around the "hoop".
(Of course tighten bleeder before removing hose and let any in the hose drain into a pan.)
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 12,221
Likes: 446
From: Overland Park Kansas
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (appearance mods)
C4 of Year Winner (appearance mods) 2019
Edit: BTW, I'm suprised I didn't see the post. Looking back for a week, I don't see your post either. (You must have hid it or announced somewhere else.)
Last edited by GREGGPENN; Jun 30, 2010 at 03:33 AM.
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