looking to replace half-shaft u joints but...
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From: Bowling Green Ky
looking to replace half-shaft u joints but...
as I was doing a search I came across a comment that is similar to what I am experiencing
" Default u-joint help
i would also replace the coated washer that is between the wheel bearing and the splined output shaft when you have it all apart. i got them from the chevy dealer for about $5 each. the part number is 14076924. my 86 developed a squeek at the right rear and after much heartburn, it was this washer."
I am hearing a squeak at the left rear and first thought was u joint,but now I'm curious if I should try this washer first since it might be a little easier..any suggestions or experiences?
" Default u-joint help
i would also replace the coated washer that is between the wheel bearing and the splined output shaft when you have it all apart. i got them from the chevy dealer for about $5 each. the part number is 14076924. my 86 developed a squeek at the right rear and after much heartburn, it was this washer."
I am hearing a squeak at the left rear and first thought was u joint,but now I'm curious if I should try this washer first since it might be a little easier..any suggestions or experiences?
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From: Bowling Green Ky
thanks guys,I misunderstood...I thought you could get to the washer without removing the half shaft completely but I only have a haynes manual and it's not that great..guess I'll see how good my mechanical skills are (or lack thereof) 
Safety Car
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The halfshaft is easy to remove. You'll have to first loosen the spindle nut. Then disconnect the sway bar end link at the knuckle and swing it out of the way. Then disconnect the tie rod. Unbolt ujoint straps, and you may have to pull the knuckle away from the car some to break the halfshaft free. Then the halfshaft can be pulled out from below.
From what gets posted alot, you'll want to heavily coat the splines of the spindle with antisieze. Some also coat the washer as well.
Pages 77-81 should give you the idea:
http://editions.amospublishing.com/K...1&pagenum=1&f=
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From: Bowling Green Ky
I was getting ready to replace my ujoints and decided to call a shop just to see what it would cost me because I need to get ready for this upcoming trip quickly..to my surprise they gave me an estimate of over $1000...they asked if the halfshafts were aluminum and said the ujoints for those were $100 a piece...
now the question,are the ujoints something special I need because I was going to buy the normal ones for about $20 a piece? I just want to make sure I'm not missing something here, but I'm pretty sure this shop is trying to stick it to me..
and I thought all halfshafts were aluminum,am I wrong there?
thanks for the help...JD
now the question,are the ujoints something special I need because I was going to buy the normal ones for about $20 a piece? I just want to make sure I'm not missing something here, but I'm pretty sure this shop is trying to stick it to me..
and I thought all halfshafts were aluminum,am I wrong there?
thanks for the help...JD
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 900
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From: Cary illinois
I was getting ready to replace my ujoints and decided to call a shop just to see what it would cost me because I need to get ready for this upcoming trip quickly..to my surprise they gave me an estimate of over $1000...they asked if the halfshafts were aluminum and said the ujoints for those were $100 a piece...
now the question,are the ujoints something special I need because I was going to buy the normal ones for about $20 a piece? I just want to make sure I'm not missing something here, but I'm pretty sure this shop is trying to stick it to me..
and I thought all halfshafts were aluminum,am I wrong there?
thanks for the help...JD
now the question,are the ujoints something special I need because I was going to buy the normal ones for about $20 a piece? I just want to make sure I'm not missing something here, but I'm pretty sure this shop is trying to stick it to me..
and I thought all halfshafts were aluminum,am I wrong there?
thanks for the help...JD
I would do the whole job for around 400 .00
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,759
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I was getting ready to replace my ujoints and decided to call a shop just to see what it would cost me because I need to get ready for this upcoming trip quickly..to my surprise they gave me an estimate of over $1000...they asked if the halfshafts were aluminum and said the ujoints for those were $100 a piece...
now the question,are the ujoints something special I need because I was going to buy the normal ones for about $20 a piece? I just want to make sure I'm not missing something here, but I'm pretty sure this shop is trying to stick it to me..
and I thought all halfshafts were aluminum,am I wrong there?
thanks for the help...JD
now the question,are the ujoints something special I need because I was going to buy the normal ones for about $20 a piece? I just want to make sure I'm not missing something here, but I'm pretty sure this shop is trying to stick it to me..
and I thought all halfshafts were aluminum,am I wrong there?
thanks for the help...JD
Was that labor quote also for the driveshaft ujoints? As those are a pain cause you have to drop the exhaust, and may have to pull the beam to get the driveshaft out.
You need the ujoints with a coated cap. Do don't have to, but the factory specs out a coated cap ujoint to help prevent corrosion.
Spicer doesn't make the coated cap ujoints for our Vettes anymore. But I believe someone had posted a number of a Spicer coated ujoint for the halfshaft that is supposed to work. Don't know what the difference is to the one that was discontinued.
I went with Neapco "Brute Force" coated ujoints from Advance.
1-0626BF: 1310 Aluminum U-Joint (Driveshaft)
2-0617BF: 1350 Aluminum U-Joint (Half-shaft)
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From: Bowling Green Ky
that quote was just for the half shafts,both sides...Neapco was what I was/am going to use as well...I'll just do it myself now,you all have already told me how to do it and I think I can handle it...about the shafts being aluminum or steel,did they make steel shafts or no?
thanks for the help...JD
thanks for the help...JD
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 1999
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From: Bowling Green KY
I was getting ready to replace my ujoints and decided to call a shop just to see what it would cost me because I need to get ready for this upcoming trip quickly..to my surprise they gave me an estimate of over $1000...they asked if the halfshafts were aluminum and said the ujoints for those were $100 a piece...
now the question,are the ujoints something special I need because I was going to buy the normal ones for about $20 a piece? I just want to make sure I'm not missing something here, but I'm pretty sure this shop is trying to stick it to me..
and I thought all halfshafts were aluminum,am I wrong there?
thanks for the help...JD
now the question,are the ujoints something special I need because I was going to buy the normal ones for about $20 a piece? I just want to make sure I'm not missing something here, but I'm pretty sure this shop is trying to stick it to me..
and I thought all halfshafts were aluminum,am I wrong there?
thanks for the help...JD
Sounds like you are in a hurry, if not I can put this stuff on for you pretty cheap. But I have to finish up another car that is on my lift first, probably won't be done until this weekend.
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2004
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that quote was just for the half shafts,both sides...Neapco was what I was/am going to use as well...I'll just do it myself now,you all have already told me how to do it and I think I can handle it...about the shafts being aluminum or steel,did they make steel shafts or no?
thanks for the help...JD
thanks for the help...JD
And the shafts are aluminum. Which is why the factory specs coated caps on the ujoints.
Make sure to wire wheel the ujoint strap bolts to clean off the old drilock. And put new blue thread lock on the bolts and torque to spec.
Here is the write up I used. This write up is for replacing the hub bearing, but just ignore that part:
Pages 77-81:
http://editions.amospublishing.com/K...1&pagenum=1&f=
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From: Bowling Green Ky
That is a major rip off.
And the shafts are aluminum. Which is why the factory specs coated caps on the ujoints.
Make sure to wire wheel the ujoint strap bolts to clean off the old drilock. And put new blue thread lock on the bolts and torque to spec.
Here is the write up I used. This write up is for replacing the hub bearing, but just ignore that part:
Pages 77-81:
http://editions.amospublishing.com/K...1&pagenum=1&f=
And the shafts are aluminum. Which is why the factory specs coated caps on the ujoints.
Make sure to wire wheel the ujoint strap bolts to clean off the old drilock. And put new blue thread lock on the bolts and torque to spec.
Here is the write up I used. This write up is for replacing the hub bearing, but just ignore that part:
Pages 77-81:
http://editions.amospublishing.com/K...1&pagenum=1&f=
yeah, they weren't even going to take me out to dinner first
thanks for that write up,last time I tried it I couldn't open it but it works now
RUKWKR,you have a PM..and the shop was midas,go figure..bluegrass trans said I had to bring it in for them to give a quote
thanks for everything fellas
