When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
One of the bolts is cleverly located behind the power steering pulley and I can not seem to get a clean shot at it. The power steering pulley does have holes in it, but none of them seem to allow me to cleanly align my tools with the bolt......I have managed to break it loose but my socket assembly keeps backing into the pulley.....which I did not realize due to my position over the engine.....and the result is I bent the pulley....so I am now purchasing a new power steering pump pulley.
Since none of my pulley removal tools work I am purchasing a GM Power Steering Pulley Pump Kit at Advance Auto. The kit is made by Autocraft (thought they made Ford parts).....
Anyway, as a sanity check....what is the best method for removing that bolt (besides removing the bent power steering pulley)? I assume just keep trying different socket extensions and more patience...or am I missing something here?
It's been a couple of years and I can't remember the details but I don't recall having any difficulty getting at bolts on a 96. It's possible I used a wrench. Or a socket with a universal.
when i did mine last month, i used a long socket with a 2 or 3 inch extension, then went at an angle from below the bolt. it worked to get around the power steering pulley. who knows who designed that?
Thanks.....anyone remember the torque value when putting bolts back in?
Bought the GM wheel pulley kit at local parts store.......worked great, removed the P/S pulley in minutes.....I assume it will help in putting back on.
Thanks.....anyone remember the torque value when putting bolts back in?
Bought the GM wheel pulley kit at local parts store.......worked great, removed the P/S pulley in minutes.....I assume it will help in putting back on.
this is how I did mine, sometimes it's just easier in the long run to "clear" a path, then to work around obsticles.
-note, lightly coat the P/S shaft with anti-sieze, and don't install it too deep.
A couple of months ago I changed the WP on my 96. All I did was use a correct length extension and worked around the PS pump. No need to remove it; all it calls for is finding the right angle to access the bolt. Simple once you do.
I think I removed the pump. I know the shop manual says how to do it. I would not have attempted it without it.
I'm not sure where you found that the FSM tells you how to get that bolt off but my '96 manual says nothing about that. If I missed it then please tell me so I can kick myself thoroughly because I looked for quite some time.
When I pulled my WP last week, I put a universal joint on a 3" extension and a standard socket to go through the holes in the PS pulley and it actually backed out pretty easily.
I guess now that you have the pulley off it's a moot point but...well that's what I did.
Thanks.....anyone remember the torque value when putting bolts back in?
Bought the GM wheel pulley kit at local parts store.......worked great, removed the P/S pulley in minutes.....I assume it will help in putting back on.
All I did was use the correct length extension and was able to access all the bolts without removing the P/S.
My 96 called for 35 lb/ft and that's what I went with when I changed my WP a couple of months ago.
Frankly, I received several answers with the same responses you received. I'm working on a 95 LT1 doing the same job plus the spark plugs and wires.
One of the best instructional paragraphs I received on another site was to take the pulley off, as you surmised, to make access free and easy. I used the Harbor Freight pulley remover and in that same kit are the parts to put the pulley on as well. I was told not to oil the shaft at all, just put it back on. I sanded it down a little to get rid of some surface rust.
The manual calls for the water pump bolts to be tightened to 30 foot pounds. I installed them in an X pattern just in case and also don't forget to use sealer as those bolts go into the water jacket. That is actually detailed as well here in a pictorial about changing the opti.