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I just bought a 1990 C4 that has electrical problems. The instrument panel, fuel pump, and starter will not work. I checked all fusible links and replaced the starter enable relay. Could the ignition switch be bad?
I checked fuse boxes and there is no power to the instr,fp1, and crank a/b. Everything else has power.
I just bought a 1990 C4 that has electrical problems. The instrument panel, fuel pump, and starter will not work. I checked all fusible links and replaced the starter enable relay. Could the ignition switch be bad?
I checked fuse boxes and there is no power to the instr,fp1, and crank a/b. Everything else has power.
Do you still have power at other locations? How's the batt. terminals?
Those three items, instrument panel, fuel pump, ECM, get power from the same fusible link that goes to a splice. You need the electrical service manual for your car so you can trace power from the battery to all the devices that aren't getting power. A good way to test for power is to use a 12v lamp which draws current. Voltmeters draw so little current to get a reading, they don't test for low resistance to the point you are testing. Remember that power comes through a firewall connector, to the ignition switch and then to most of the electrical systems in the car. Some ign switched power also goes back through the firewall connector. You need to trace 12v power from the battery through the fuse/fuseable link, through a splice, through the firewall, through the ign sw, to the electrical device or back through the firewall to any engine compartment electrical devices. This is the easiest way to find all your electrical problems, and it won't be particularly easy. Sorry, ....get busy. :o
Those three items, instrument panel, fuel pump, ECM, get power from the same fusible link that goes to a splice. You need the electrical service manual for your car so you can trace power from the battery to all the devices that aren't getting power. A good way to test for power is to use a 12v lamp which draws current. Voltmeters draw so little current to get a reading, they don't test for low resistance to the point you are testing. Remember that power comes through a firewall connector, to the ignition switch and then to most of the electrical systems in the car. Some ign switched power also goes back through the firewall connector. You need to trace 12v power from the battery through the fuse/fuseable link, through a splice, through the firewall, through the ign sw, to the electrical device or back through the firewall to any engine compartment electrical devices. This is the easiest way to find all your electrical problems, and it won't be particularly easy. Sorry, ....get busy. :o
Thanks, I have been using the tester light trying to chase down the problem. I used the search tab and read up on the way the circuit runs to the starter relay,neutral safety switch and on to the starter. I have two different service manuals but they don't make much sense to me yet. Getting to work on the power to ignition switch thru that link and then I will check the ignition switch itself.
I do have power to the starter on the main post. I know the brake lights are probably on a different circuit than the starter but they only work when the key is turned on. Does this mean I have power to the ignition switch? The buzzer does not indicate there is a key in the ignition.
Last edited by workinonit; Jul 26, 2010 at 10:37 PM.
I do have power to the starter on the main post. I know the brake lights are probably on a different circuit than the starter but they only work when the key is turned on. Does this mean I have power to the ignition switch? The buzzer does not indicate there is a key in the ignition.
The large cable on the positive terminal of the battery goes directly to the large bolt on the starter motor. On my 87 the brake lights work independant of the ignition switch. I don't know about 90's. If your brake lights only work with the ign sw in run, then you have power to the ignition switch. You may have a defective buzzer.
It will help immensely if you will buy the GM service manuals for your Corvette. The electrical diagnosis manual has circuit diagrams of every electrical circuit and a description of every electrical device along with a diagnosis procedure for devices not working. It also has drawings and descriptions of the location of every electrical device. Working without a manual is exactly like trying to fix your car while blindfolded. BUY THE MANUALS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
My "guess" is ignition switch.So you have power/12 volts at battery cable that is on starter?Just no power/12 volts to signal wire at starter while someone is turning ignition cylinder(need an extra person to verify)?Maybe someone can post a wiring diagram for the OP.Need wiring diagram to make things much easier.Go to library & go to Alldata.com & print out diagram-I do this all the time.
I am working on a similar issue in a 95. FSM is here tomorrow and the rebuilt BCM on Monday I think. There is a purple wire from the solenoid to the starter relay which is behind the drivers knee bolster. There is a yellow wire that is switched by the ignition on the feed side of the relay. The relay itself appears to be a switch ground control from the BCM. Hope this helps
I do have power to the starter on the main post. I know the brake lights are probably on a different circuit than the starter but they only work when the key is turned on. Does this mean I have power to the ignition switch? The buzzer does not indicate there is a key in the ignition.
Brake lights are always available regardless of ignition switch position. Your vehicle has been cobbled on indeed. Is there an aftermarket alarm system? Key buzzer/chimes fail and become intermittent - pay no attention to that for now.
There is no alarm system that I know of. I have a Chiltons and a Haynes repair manual. Neither one gives a clear picture of what I am trying to do. What is a good name manual to get that I can make sense of? Also, I measured the Ohms on my key and the multimeter said 4.75. How do I translate that to a key #?
you need the factory manuals, there are two of them one is specific for electrical.
you tell your key maker the ohms and he gets a key with the same resistance and makes you a key.
I ordered the factory manuals. I hope they arrive this week. I now have power to the starter and fuel pump by a little creative engineering but the injectors are not pulsing. Sounds like a possible VATS issue. We are going to start with the key/ignition and move forward from there. My question is.... does VATS disable the instrument panel too?