160 thermostat?!?!?
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
From: Arlington Texas
160 thermostat?!?!?
I put in a 160 thermostat and I was just wondering if what I thought was right.
when the engine heats up to 160 that is when the cooling system turns on, but the car will run hotter then that.
If that is correct what is the normal running temp for the car now?
thanks for the help.
when the engine heats up to 160 that is when the cooling system turns on, but the car will run hotter then that.
If that is correct what is the normal running temp for the car now?
thanks for the help.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2001
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From: Athens AL
C7 of the Year - Unmodified Finalist 2021
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With the 160 it'll still get to full temp, just get there slower. At normal cruising, the oil will be around 200-210 and the Coolant should settle about 15 degrees cooler than that.
In town the car will still get to 230 or so, again, slower than before.
The cooling system is always working, but the full system circulation doesnt start til the thermostat opens.
In town the car will still get to 230 or so, again, slower than before.
The cooling system is always working, but the full system circulation doesnt start til the thermostat opens.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 54,124
Likes: 30
From: Cincinnati, Oh USA
If you thought your engine would run at a lower temperature in the summer by installing a 160 stat, you are dead wrong AND you wasted your money and labor! It could run 160 in the winter though, which is too low a temp to run your engine.
When the 160 opens fully, your engine will run the same temp as the GM recommended stat would run when it is open, above 35 mph that would be about 195 F.
When the 160 opens fully, your engine will run the same temp as the GM recommended stat would run when it is open, above 35 mph that would be about 195 F.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,858
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From: Santa Maria CA
The stat doesn't slam open at 160. It slowly begins to open at that temp. It is simply a temperature controlled valve. When it opens coolant is now allowed to circulate through the radiator and through the motor to begin the cooling process as designed. When it's closed the coolant is at a stand still. This allows the coolant trapped in the engine block to come up to operating temps quicker. If you didn't have a stat the car would take a long time to come up to normal operating temps because the coolant would be circulating right from the beginning.
As stated above. A 160 stat only delays the temperature climb but cannot limit it.
It simply allows the coolant to begin to circulate sooner that a factory rated stat but has no ability to limit your max temps. Once the stat is open it's all up to the rest of your cooling system and cooling fans to limit the max temp reached. The stat plays no further role.
If you want to keep the car at a lower operating temperature than the factory 230ish make your fans kick on sooner with either a lower temp fan switch or a manual switch. I've been running a 200 degree fan switch with a 170 degree stat with great results.
As stated above. A 160 stat only delays the temperature climb but cannot limit it.
It simply allows the coolant to begin to circulate sooner that a factory rated stat but has no ability to limit your max temps. Once the stat is open it's all up to the rest of your cooling system and cooling fans to limit the max temp reached. The stat plays no further role.
If you want to keep the car at a lower operating temperature than the factory 230ish make your fans kick on sooner with either a lower temp fan switch or a manual switch. I've been running a 200 degree fan switch with a 170 degree stat with great results.
Last edited by 86PACER; Jul 25, 2010 at 10:40 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 3,616
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From: Sandhills of North Carolina
Also, one thing not touched on to much with a 160 is your gas mileage will drop a mile or so per gallon. Taking the motor longer to get to operating temp requires more fuel. If it matters at all.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 8,735
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From: WV
This won't affect you as much as the northern guys, but the 160 stat won't do to well when it gets cold out .. It won't allow the engine to get to the proper running temp and your heater won't work as well. These engines need to reach a certain temp to get rid of moisture and 160 won't do it.I really never understood why people put 160 stats in there cars and would like for someone that really knows to explain to me what the benefits are..
..WW
PS.. Now you got me thinking, Im going to start a thread asking this exact question...WW
..WWPS.. Now you got me thinking, Im going to start a thread asking this exact question...WW
Last edited by WW7; Jul 25, 2010 at 09:15 AM.
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 12,517
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This won't affect you as much as the northern guys, but the 160 stat won't do to well when it gets cold out .. It won't allow the engine to get to the proper running temp and your heater won't work as well. These engines need to reach a certain temp to get rid of moisture and 160 won't do it.I really never understood why people put 160 stats in there cars and would like for someone that really knows to explain to me what the benefits are....WW
PS.. Now you got me thinking, Im going to start a thread asking this exact question...WW
..WWPS.. Now you got me thinking, Im going to start a thread asking this exact question...WW
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 12,261
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From: O'Fallon Missouri
I'm using a 160* thermostat in my 94 LT1, and without reproramming the fans it will run ~180* on the highway compared to 190* with the stock 180* stat. In traffic without the fans being reprogrammed I'm sure it would eventually reach the same hot temps as the stock stat.
As for the 160* stat not providing enough heat for the cold winter, that's BS. My 160* stat will provide plenty of heat even in the sub 30* days of the Midwest.
Also, the LT1 goes into closed loop at ~140*. The 160* stat should reach this threshold at the same time as the stock 180* stat. Which will have no effect on fuel mileage.
As for the 160* stat not providing enough heat for the cold winter, that's BS. My 160* stat will provide plenty of heat even in the sub 30* days of the Midwest.
Also, the LT1 goes into closed loop at ~140*. The 160* stat should reach this threshold at the same time as the stock 180* stat. Which will have no effect on fuel mileage.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2001
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From: Athens AL
C7 of the Year - Unmodified Finalist 2021
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And as stated, in L98 cars the lower temps delay heat soak of the intake, so you don't preheat the air coming into the motor. Cold air=more power.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 54,124
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From: Cincinnati, Oh USA
Lower coolant temperature causes heat to be drawn out of the cylinders. Heat IS HP. Smokey Yanuck stated in his book that track racers get the highest HP out of their engines at 250-270 F. Continental Motors ran a number of identical engines and controlled their coolant temps and found that the engines generated higher HP with higher coolant temperatures and that they also got higher HP per pound of fuel used. Upon teardown the cylinder wear was higher the lower the coolant temperature. The temperature of the inlet air is only one factor in HP and it is not the dominating factor.