1993 cranks but wont start
#1
1993 cranks but wont start
I probably should have signed on months ago.............anyhow, here it goes.
About a month ago my son went to start the car and it would not fire, (has been running fine). The next day it fired right up. Later that day he began to drive the car and got about 1 mile from home when it died...............towed back to the house. After reading on-line it looked obvious that it was the optispark. I ordered one from Mid-America and installed last weekend................car still WILL NOT Start! Between yesterday and today I've tested all I could based on tech manuals and on-line support. I'm so fed up right now I'd sell the damn thing if an offer was made.
Any thoughts?
About a month ago my son went to start the car and it would not fire, (has been running fine). The next day it fired right up. Later that day he began to drive the car and got about 1 mile from home when it died...............towed back to the house. After reading on-line it looked obvious that it was the optispark. I ordered one from Mid-America and installed last weekend................car still WILL NOT Start! Between yesterday and today I've tested all I could based on tech manuals and on-line support. I'm so fed up right now I'd sell the damn thing if an offer was made.
Any thoughts?
#2
What testing have you done? I don't see any mention of attempts to isolate the cause of the no start. Are there any codes in the ECM? Have you checked the fuel pressure? Have you checked for spark to the plugs?
PS: I'll offer $100 as is!
PS: I'll offer $100 as is!
#3
This is what bothers me. The testing has been limited but still points to the optispark although it was what was just replaced. The only code showing the last time I checked was 2-4. Fuel pressure is good.
#4
Do you have a factory service manual?
If testing shows an opti code and you have replaced it I would carefully inspect the wiring and connectors in the circuit.
There is no code 2-4, code 24 is for the vehicle speed sensor.Have you checked for spark to the plugs?
If testing shows an opti code and you have replaced it I would carefully inspect the wiring and connectors in the circuit.
There is no code 2-4, code 24 is for the vehicle speed sensor.Have you checked for spark to the plugs?
#5
Le Mans Master
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Assuming you are getting no spark then check the pigtail that connects to the opti and to the harness under the right fuel rail cover. Among other things you can unplug both ends and OHM it out. Along the same lines are you positive the coil to opti is fully seated?
#6
Toptechx6................correct, the code was 24.
Aminnich.....................the pigtail to the opti was 5v as noted what to test from the manual. And YES..............I spent the morning insuring the coil plug was seated to the opti.
Aminnich.....................the pigtail to the opti was 5v as noted what to test from the manual. And YES..............I spent the morning insuring the coil plug was seated to the opti.
#9
Team Owner
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What do you mean by, "car will not turn over"? Turning over refers to the starter cranking the engine.
Automobile engines require hot spark, spark at the right time, fuel and air and in the correct ratio and cylinder compression in order to start and continue to run. When they can be cranked and won't start, that is the time to do standard diagnostic tests to find out what is missing that prevents the engine from running.
Use a timing light while someone cranks to see if you have spark and spark at the right time. Bring a grounded wire close to an unplugged plug wire boot while someone cranks. You should have a snappy at least 1/2" spark. Measure the fuel pressure, it should be 35-42 psi and it should hold up for at least 1/2 hr with the ign off. If it falls rapidly you may have leaky fuel injectors or defective check valve in the fuel pressure regulator. Use a noid light (available at parts stores) and test an injector socket on each cylinder bank while someone cranks, it should pulse during cranking. You can make your own light with an LED (light emitting diode) and a series 680 ohm resistor. The homemade light must be connected with the proper polarity to work. Spray starting fluid into the MAF and see if the engine will start. If it does, you have a fuel delivery problem.
You have only tested spark and you too easily become discouraged. To find out why it won't start you have to test ALL the things an engine requires to start and continue running. Come back and tell us what you found with all these tests so we can offer more help.
Automobile engines require hot spark, spark at the right time, fuel and air and in the correct ratio and cylinder compression in order to start and continue to run. When they can be cranked and won't start, that is the time to do standard diagnostic tests to find out what is missing that prevents the engine from running.
Use a timing light while someone cranks to see if you have spark and spark at the right time. Bring a grounded wire close to an unplugged plug wire boot while someone cranks. You should have a snappy at least 1/2" spark. Measure the fuel pressure, it should be 35-42 psi and it should hold up for at least 1/2 hr with the ign off. If it falls rapidly you may have leaky fuel injectors or defective check valve in the fuel pressure regulator. Use a noid light (available at parts stores) and test an injector socket on each cylinder bank while someone cranks, it should pulse during cranking. You can make your own light with an LED (light emitting diode) and a series 680 ohm resistor. The homemade light must be connected with the proper polarity to work. Spray starting fluid into the MAF and see if the engine will start. If it does, you have a fuel delivery problem.
You have only tested spark and you too easily become discouraged. To find out why it won't start you have to test ALL the things an engine requires to start and continue running. Come back and tell us what you found with all these tests so we can offer more help.
#11
Le Mans Master
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#13
Drifting
#14
Burning Brakes
#16
Team Owner
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Did you have at least 1/2" of spark?
What was the spark timing?
What was the fuel pressure and how long did it hold up?
Did you see injector pulses on each cylinder bank?
What happened when you sprayed starter fluid into the MAF and then cranked the engine?
What cylinder pressure did you measure?
I understand your frustration and myself and others would still like to help you get your engine running. Giving up will fix nothing!!!!!!!!!!!!!
#18
Already replaced the coil last month. I'm leading toward the ECM or timing. The ECM is about impossible to find and I have no clue about timing..............don't know what to look for or how to adjust.
#19
Drifting
Timing is not adjustable on the LT1. But you can be sure you have a good spark by putting a spare plug into a plug wire, laying it on a grounded spot, and cranking while watching the plug.