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I have a '93 coupe, six speed that infrequently will not start. There is no electrical signal at all. There seems to be no correlation to engine temp or recent operation. It just fails to start. I can try again an hour or perhaps a day later and it will start. As long as I don't shut it off, it's okay, because it doesn't stall or any thing.
I recently replaced the computer ( the ECM, I think, the large black box under the hood) in hopes of correcting the problem. It didn't. The car has approx. 125,000 miles. I'm actually afraid to drive it now for fear of getting stranded someplace until it decides to run again.
Yes, this is simplistic, but get the car up on ramps and check the wiring. Make sure that the nuts securing the wiring to the starter is tight. Also look for frayed or burned wires. I have had both issues with my 94. May not be a bad idea to shield the starter from heat sources (Headers?)
It sound like the starter is simply beginning to fail. How many miles on the car? Original starter?
The good news is that it is relatively simple to replace the starter and not too expensive.
the starter may or may not operate, but the indicator lights dim
when the key is turned whether or not the starter operates.
Check battery voltage and clean cable at both ends. If the battery is less than 12.5 volts charge it first. If the battery and cables are 4 or 5 years old just change all of it first as it has timed out age wise even if the mileage is low.
If the lights dim and no crank it means the starter is either drawing too much current (bad starter) or the wires and switches can not provide enough current or bad battery or cables. This condition can kill a new starter by dropping voltage and having the amps required go up. Starting at the battery put a volt meter on it and read while trying to start it might drop a little but not tons. If this reads good do the same at the starter if it reads ok it is probably the starter if bad probably something in between. Not everything but maybe a starting point for common causes. Rebuilt starters can vary a bunch in quality too.
if no crank take a test light or volt meter hook up to s term on starter test light should light or volt meter should read right around 12 volts when key is turned to crank. if you have this and assuming you have the proper grounds and postive connections it is starter. Being that the starter was just replace I would check the connections on the starter and the battery. there is also a union block on the fire wall this is a good place for corroded connections