My car had that when I got it. It drove me nuts, both fans running all the time and still ran at 195-200. Disconnected it and runs the same. I have no problem with my car running at 215 in traffic. On the highway it runs from 194-200. Only thing different I did was ground the fan relays together so when the fan goes on both of them do.

 

I have been in these 160 stat threads since the first one occurred and I have many times stated my sources that state lower coolant temps reduces HP. If you understand the basic thermodynamics of internal combustion engines you then would already know that lower coolant temperatures steals heat from the cylinders and heat IS horsepower. The biggest reason 1/4 milers cool their engine between runs is to cool their intake manifolds which allows denser inlet air and more HP, not to mention that you just can't keep increasing coolant temp on each run, eventually you will exceed the radiator cap pressure spec and lose coolant.

 

Understand. Show me a dyno run with a 160 degree engine vs a 180 engine.
Theorys are great, but proof is in the pudding.
Also, the water temp may be 160, theoretically, but the oil and temps inside the cylinders wont be affected much.

 

A couple years ago I found in a Jeep forum, a guy who posted his dyno graph between runs with the stock stat and a 160 stat and the 160 stat made lower HP. I know I saved that post but I can't find it on my computer and I can't find that post on the net either. Early in these stat posts a forum member bought some dyno time and did run a C4 with a 195 stat and again with a 160 stat and posted that he didn't see any HP difference.

 

Well, when you find them post them
The run should be on a engine dyno, to alleviate driveline issues.
It needs to have the coolant temp running at 160, with oil temp where ever. Then it needs to be SAE.
The 180 tun on an engine dyno needs to have the coolant flowing at 180 and oil temp needs to be the same as the 160 run. And SAE the run.
When that is done, and numbers are posted, we can then stop keyboard madness argue all day, and put this to rest.

 

My brother is an M.E. and I found in one of his auto engine repair books a well controlled test done by Continental Motors. I quote this info frequently in these posts. Continental took some identical small engines and measured dimensions before the tests and ran them for the same hours at maximum HP while keeping their coolant at constant temperature. After the test they tore down the engines and measured them. Continental found that they got progressive increase in HP with increase in coolant temp. They found that they got more HP/pound fuel per hour with increasing temperature. They found that cylinder wear was higher with decreasing temperature. These were laboratory controlled tests and I believe them, I don't think Continental wanted to fool themselves!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

And what does this prove? SHow me the dyno numbers not some book your ME brother has? Is your brother a real ME or a graduate without a license to practice? WHo cares. Show the dyno.
My best friend is a Aeronautical engineer and he can do a loop in a Helicopter? What does it prove, NOTHING>
PS, the OP just wanted to know where to buy a thermostat. He probably already has it installed and is smiling at all that SOTP hp he just gained, LOL

 

No dyno graphs included, but I did just find this on www.naturalglasscorvette.com .

Snake Oil Elixir # 2: The 170 Degree Thermostat. $69.95: Claim, "lower engine temperature = more HP and greater engine life". My Opinion: "BS." Anyone need a translation of that one? Fact: the LS1 engine develops its best, dyno proven HP and Torque at 195 – 210 degree operating temperatures. Fact: water vapor (condensation) in your oil is an enemy to the durability of your engine… and condensation is inevitable in any situation where metal goes from hot to cold (whenever you turn the key to the "Off" position). There are two ways to remove condensation from you oil: 1. Change it; 2. Get the oil temperature to a level where any water in the oil will boil off as steam, be drawn into the combustion process through your LS1’s PCV system, and exit the engine as water vapor out the exhaust pipe. To do this "boil off", the oil temperature needs to get to 230 degrees. 212 degrees is not high enough as the crankcase operates under pressure. So, to encourage getting the oil up to a "boil off temperature" to provoke this important oil decontamination process let’s remove the factory 190 degree thermostat, and replace it with a 170…smart! OK, check the scorecard… no dyno proven HP gain at lower coolant temperatures, and adverse affects on the oil quality by allowing condensation to build up in the oil circulating through your engine.

 

You are definitely hell bent on proving something here. Go dyno it. Get some proof.
Hearsay is all you are cut-n-pasting
Unsubscribing, Have a nice day.

 

Corvette Central, Ecklers, Coverette America, and Mid America Motorworks all have 160 thermostats. As the members have stated, you should read some of the pros and cons on the subject, and act in the best interest of your car. Good luck.

 

You first

 

UH, noted?
I am not the one freaking out about the 160 stat. I just want proof. I am not going to rip my engine out and dyno it? STUPID.
Read what I am saying throughout instead of being silly

 

No, "silly" is asking someone to do what you are not willing to do because it would be "stupid" in order to prove that not making a change is better than making a change.

The fact for me is that I have never seen anything concrete that a 160 stat improves performance, nor that running a few degrees cooler on an LTx motor has any real benefit. The LTx motor was designed to run at certain temp ranges. This combined with the reverse cooling feature of these engines tend to read higher temps on the gauge. So given the design, the tighter clearances, higher compression etc. I have to wonder how running on the highway at 167 effects factors like oil viscosity and friction, compression in the chamber and fuel burn. Besides, what it runs on the highway is a moot point to most people, who like me, do only a small percantage of their driving on the highway. It's the stop and go that creates the higher temps anyway.

Show me the dyno and scientific data from independent sources (i.e. not Hypertech) that prove making this change is good for my engine. Your the one freaking out out about "proof is the pudding" and "show me the dyno". I'm just asking, where's your proof? That's not being silly. Until I run across real, verifiable evidence from a source not concerned with sales, the 160 stat will remain in the snake oil catagory, just below the "airfoil", "tornado", and "tps" gizmo.

 

From the grave I come to tell the fact that the stat @ 160 degree is part of a larger ECM program input.

With a Stock Chip or settings the stat. [alone] it does zip.

These cars operate at 225 degrees? So opening at 160 vs 180 vs 200 alone won't do much.

There is more to it, but the sun is rising and zombies have to be underground.........../???? wait ?? that's Vampires???

?? Same thing

TJM

 

If you really want to make things go, heat the fuel to about 400 degrees and cool the air.....!!


TJM

 

Do you feel better?

 

I haven't yet found some dyno curves, but I did find a tuner that states, "Lower coolant temps causes lower engine HP". Look here:
http://www.importtuner.com/tech/impp...wer/index.html