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Please tell me if I'm thinking this through correctly - car will sometimes not start - turn key and starter does nothing. I had a light wired to starter so that when it did it again I could open hood and see if power getting to starter - light came on when I turned key but no starter action. I believe the solonid or starter is going out. This has happen cold and hot. If it was a vats or neutral safety switch(auto) no power would get to starter, correct? Just don't want to replace the Starter if not going on fritz. Works great when it works which is most of the time but the not knowing is somewhat of a downer. Car is a 1990 l98 automatic
Thanks for any help
Please tell me if I'm thinking this through correctly - car will sometimes not start - turn key and starter does nothing. I had a light wired to starter so that when it did it again I could open hood and see if power getting to starter - light came on when I turned key but no starter action. I believe the solonid or starter is going out. This has happen cold and hot. If it was a vats or neutral safety switch(auto) no power would get to starter, correct? Just don't want to replace the Starter if not going on fritz. Works great when it works which is most of the time but the not knowing is somewhat of a downer. Car is a 1990 l98 automatic
Thanks for any help
Your theory sounds solid to me, likely a bad contact in the starter.
have you been reading my post that is what I have been saying to do for awhile. As long as you are testing at the s term. If you have voltage when turning to crank and it does not crank it is going to be starter related. Assuming you have 12 volts to the main term and a good ground.
That is the same as putting a volt meter on terminal S when key is turned.
Replace the starter as it comes with a solenoid.
My 86 starter brushes wore down so far that the starter would only work when the car was cold.
When the car heats up, the micarta between the copper armature segments expanded, and kept the brushes from actually contacting the commutator.
When that happens, the starter is dead until the car cools off sufficiently for the micarta to cool off and contract, allowing the starter brushes to contact the commutator, and spin the armature.......
The only caution here is, do not move the wire harness that goes into the firewall because the vacuum lines that control your heater are in that harness. moving it excessively breaks the vacuum line, and your heater starts acting up. A/C will be overpowered by the heater and may not work at all. Oh, it will work, you just can't feel it.
you are right coupeguy it is more or less the same as checking with a volt meter just not as accurrate. Just seems a lot of people as soon as they have a no crank they want to say vats. This way you can wire it in drive the car till it acts up again look down and see what you have. Better then jumping and throwing parts on. Of course if you are lucky and it is acting up while you have what you need to test it great but that does not happen to much.
If you have 12v on the s terminal, the starter solenoid (small wire) when the ignition switch is in crank position and you don't hear a sound, then you at least have a defective starter solenoid. Most parts houses will test your starter for you. The starter solenoid is a lot cheaper than a starter!