C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Distributor wire question 91 L98

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Old Aug 21, 2010 | 11:30 AM
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Default Distributor wire question 91 L98

This is the last thing I have to do before firing the car back up. I installed a rebuilt distributor and for the life of me cannot find the male connector for the 4 wire plug that comes out of the distributor.
The FSM says this goes to the ECM connector but I cannot find it!
I know my memory is shot but geez, it has only been a few weeks since I took everything apart.
Anyone got a pic of where this goes?
I feel like a complete dummy.:o
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Old Aug 21, 2010 | 12:24 PM
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The connector is at the lower right in this preinstalled pic:
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Old Aug 21, 2010 | 12:32 PM
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Ron,
The 4 pronger should be against the firewall, just to the drivers side of center. It is about 6 inches long, and comes out of the fat wiring harness. It may have flipped behind it, or behind the wiper motor/oil pressure tree.
On my 87, I have to plug it in first, then lower the distributor into the hole.
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Old Aug 21, 2010 | 05:55 PM
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If it's the connector shown in the posted photo, why not just remove the distributor cap and see if you EVEN installed it on your re-built distributor.

If it's there, it becomes a simple matter to trace it to the plug location. If it's NOT there, then install one.

Jake

Last edited by JAKE; Aug 21, 2010 at 05:57 PM.
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Old Aug 21, 2010 | 06:10 PM
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Thanks Pete and Jake.
I had to leave the project as the cat had a seizure and had to rush her to the animal hospital. $320 later I am back home and now we are going out for a bite.
Will dig around the fat wiring harness. I'll bet it got shoved back there and I just haven't looked hard enough.
Let's hope she fires up.
New injectors, ported intake, thermostat, distributor, coil, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, valve covers, ported plenum, SLP runners and EGR valve. There sure are a lot of fittings and sensors on the dang thing.
From what I can tell I can start it without this being plugged in.
My FSM says to disconnect this when setting my timing. I had not heard that and thought the only thing you need to disconnect is the wire that goes to the tach.
Will give it a try after dinner.
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Old Aug 21, 2010 | 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by corvetteronw
From what I can tell I can start it without this being plugged in.
My FSM says to disconnect this when setting my timing.
That's how I initially read the FSM as well, but that's not how it works. To set timing you only unplug the inline connector on the brown wire which is out further from the firewall.

The connector should be back there somewhere as Pete K said. Mine likes to fall back down there every time I have it unplugged. You just have to feel around for it.
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Old Aug 21, 2010 | 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by corvetteronw
Thanks Pete and Jake.
I had to leave the project as the cat had a seizure and had to rush her to the animal hospital. $320 later I am back home and now we are going out for a bite.
Will dig around the fat wiring harness. I'll bet it got shoved back there and I just haven't looked hard enough.
Let's hope she fires up.
New injectors, ported intake, thermostat, distributor, coil, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, valve covers, ported plenum, SLP runners and EGR valve. There sure are a lot of fittings and sensors on the dang thing.
From what I can tell I can start it without this being plugged in.
My FSM says to disconnect this when setting my timing. I had not heard that and thought the only thing you need to disconnect is the wire that goes to the tach.
Will give it a try after dinner.
That SINGLE WIRE, brown with a white stripe, goes by different names and confuses some. There was recently a rather extensive exchange about this on CF.

Disconnecting it is required to properly set the initial/base timing. With it DISCONNECTED it DEFEATS the ECM's ability to take over the ignition timing.

So once all the other connections are properly made, it's disconnected. Then, using a timing light, the initial/base timing is set with the engine idling.

Engine is then shut down, the connector re-connected, the battery disconnected for about 30 seconds (this clears the error code that automatically gets set when the ECM detects the wire disconnected). Battery is then re-connected and you're good to go.

BTW, you don't fool with the TACH or BAT connectors - just leave them connected, along with that BIG sucka you're searching for. LOL

Jake
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Old Aug 21, 2010 | 07:33 PM
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How's the cat? What caused it; hair ball?

Jake
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Old Aug 21, 2010 | 10:42 PM
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The cat had a seizure. An emergency vet did a physical and blood work and found everything normal. Possibly got into something toxic.
We own a duplex and rent the next door unit to our daughter and her kids. This cat was one we took in from an old lady who died as it had no where to live. The cat is also the sister to our house cat and we gave her to our grand daughter.
Had to have it checked out - no other option as daughter is out of town for the weekend.
Cat's fine.
I pulled the distributor and found the male connector stuffed under the oil pressure sending unit adapter. No wonder I could not find it.
I am watching my beloved/hated Detroit Lions play the Broncos right now. Will get back to the 91 tomorrow after breakfast.
Gotta get this thing ready for Carlisle and the pressure is mounting.
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Old Aug 22, 2010 | 12:16 AM
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Originally Posted by SteelBlue91
To set timing you only unplug the inline connector on the brown wire which is out further from the firewall.
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