Need Help Changing Plugs
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Joined: Aug 2008
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From: odessa MO
Need Help Changing Plugs
How should i go about changing plugs in my 92 lt1? Looks like a pain in the a$$. Am i gonna need some special tools? What can i remove to make it easier? Are some easier to access from under the car? Any help appreciated.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,853
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From: Westerly RI
The special tools you will need are patience and long skinny fingers. Plan to spend some time on this project. You will wind up using various socket extensions, u-joints, etc. Some guys take the inner fenders out, this does help.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,615
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From: Tampa Fl
All you need to remove is the asr unit,now if your doing the wires thats a pain.get yourself a pipe to put on the end of your small socket on the passenger side back plug,it will come right out.
I used a 1/4 drive socket a 3/8 drive a swival a 3" extention a 1/4 to 3/8 adapter and a 1 foot pipe for the plugs no problem about 45 min. to a hour for all 8.
No need to get under the car or remove the fender.
I used a 1/4 drive socket a 3/8 drive a swival a 3" extention a 1/4 to 3/8 adapter and a 1 foot pipe for the plugs no problem about 45 min. to a hour for all 8.
No need to get under the car or remove the fender.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 9,226
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From: Irvine Ca
^^Listen to this guy.
Swivels and extensions are the way to go about it. A Sears starter socket set may not be enough to perform this.
I've had this very socket for over 30 years.....
Notice how a 7/8 wrench could fit on the other end??
Swivels and extensions are the way to go about it. A Sears starter socket set may not be enough to perform this.
I've had this very socket for over 30 years.....
Notice how a 7/8 wrench could fit on the other end??
Le Mans Master
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From: Seattle Area WA
Melting Slicks
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From: Castro Valley CA
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From: levittown pa. usa Even a bad day with my `Vette, is better than a good day at work
St. Jude Donor '10
PS: Its not your imagination- it really is a PITA. 
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Safety Car
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From: Lahaina Hi
Don't forget the never seize!(and just a dab not much it will not burn off the electrode if you get it on it)You will also need a piece of vaccum hose to put on the end of the spark plug to screw in the plug.
A socket from snap on tools a 5/8 swivle is attached to the plug socket and makes it easier.Don't forget the 3/4 inch wrench to fit on the end of the standard plug socket.I also use a 5/8 open end wrench and the closed end of the wrench to losen the plugs.If the plug sticks when backing them out ,turn it in and back out a few turns and turn it back in again to make sure the threads are not stripping.
That socket is from S&K tools and is called a shorty 5/8 spark plug socket I have one!!
Met wrench also has one of those sockets in their kit.
#8 plug is the worst!!wear gloves on that one and try under the car,it is a tough one no matter what you try.
A socket from snap on tools a 5/8 swivle is attached to the plug socket and makes it easier.Don't forget the 3/4 inch wrench to fit on the end of the standard plug socket.I also use a 5/8 open end wrench and the closed end of the wrench to losen the plugs.If the plug sticks when backing them out ,turn it in and back out a few turns and turn it back in again to make sure the threads are not stripping.
That socket is from S&K tools and is called a shorty 5/8 spark plug socket I have one!!
Met wrench also has one of those sockets in their kit.
#8 plug is the worst!!wear gloves on that one and try under the car,it is a tough one no matter what you try.
Last edited by REDC4CORVETTE; Aug 28, 2010 at 05:39 PM.
Le Mans Master
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From: Irvine Ca
Team Owner
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From: Columbus Ohio
CI 3-4, 8-9-10 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '06-'08-'10
Pro
Joined: May 2008
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I just changed the plugs on my 93 today, took about 2hrs. Just remove both tensioner pulleys so you can get to the opti on the drivers side easier. Also remove the plug wire holders, the ASR (just unbolt it and set it on the inner fender, and the brace from the air conditioner to the exhaust manifold, and the bracket holding the fuel lines so they can be moved around as needed. And yes jack it up and put it on jack stands so you can remove the front tires. I didn't use any special tools, just a regular 3/8" drive with a regular 5/8 spark plug socket. Good luck! It's not that hard.
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Siloam Springs AR
I got mine in a CHEAP socket set, had 1 very basic metric set, 1 very basic standard set with a sparkplug socket and an extention and a ratchet that broke after about five uses. I paid like $15 10 years ago. everything but the extention and the sparkplug socket have been broken or rounded off.
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 4,328
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From: Jacksonville FL
The socket is specifically designed for spark plugs and surely you can get some form of it at your local parts house. Most good ones have a rubber insert to protect the plug but sometimes it can be a pita when your in a bind trying to remove it. I always see a bunch of em at pawn shops and you can get them for a buck usually. Just get every 5/8" tool you have including box, open, and offset box as well as all sizes of sockets and extensions. If one way doesnt work go on to something else. As mentioned, patience is the best tool you can have.
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From: Fort Knox, KY
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Check out these pics of the dreaded LT1 Hellhole (driver's side) to help you route your plug wires back to O.E.M. specs. Do you have more than 30,000 miles on your wires? Are they arcing or sparking at night or in a darkened corner of your garage?
If so, I'd swap out the wires and plugs, doing one at a time so you don't accidentally cross-wire anything.
And the looms and plug wire holders that inevitably break in your fingers as you go to remove them? You can buy a replacement kit online from Mid-America Motorworks.
You can purchase the corrugated black flex tubing from any auto parts store.
It helps protect the ignition wires from engine heat, wire chafing, and sensitive electronics from the effects of electric and magnetic field (EMF) radiation. That HEI coil packs quite a wallop!
If so, I'd swap out the wires and plugs, doing one at a time so you don't accidentally cross-wire anything.
And the looms and plug wire holders that inevitably break in your fingers as you go to remove them? You can buy a replacement kit online from Mid-America Motorworks.
You can purchase the corrugated black flex tubing from any auto parts store.
It helps protect the ignition wires from engine heat, wire chafing, and sensitive electronics from the effects of electric and magnetic field (EMF) radiation. That HEI coil packs quite a wallop!
Last edited by onedef92; Aug 30, 2010 at 10:08 AM.
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 223
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From: Walsh MA
Check out these pics of the dreaded LT1 Hellhole (driver's side) to help you route your plug wires back to O.E.M. specs. Do you have more than 30,000 miles on your wires? Are they arcing or sparking at night or in a darkened corner of your garage?
If so, I'd swap out the wires and plugs, doing one at a time so you don't accidentally cross-wire anything.
And the looms and plug wire holders that inevitably break in your fingers as you go to remove them? You can buy a replacement kit online from Mid-America Motorworks.
You can purchase the corrugated black flex tubing from any auto parts store.
It helps protect the ignition wires from engine heat, wire chafing, and sensitive electronics from the effects of electric and magnetic field (EMF) radiation. That HEI coil packs quite a wallop!
If so, I'd swap out the wires and plugs, doing one at a time so you don't accidentally cross-wire anything.
And the looms and plug wire holders that inevitably break in your fingers as you go to remove them? You can buy a replacement kit online from Mid-America Motorworks.
You can purchase the corrugated black flex tubing from any auto parts store.
It helps protect the ignition wires from engine heat, wire chafing, and sensitive electronics from the effects of electric and magnetic field (EMF) radiation. That HEI coil packs quite a wallop!
thanks!