Just installed the new EGR valve. Problem fixed, no more " Sevice Engine" light. Car starts normal. Thanks for all the help
Code 32, Long cranking to start, EGR?
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From: Erie PA
Code 32, Long cranking to start, EGR?
I got a 1993 LT1. About every week for the last two months the Service Engine Light would come on and set code 32 (EGR). I would get home, shut the car off, restart it an hour later and the light would be out. The problem is happening more often. Today the engine takes about 5-10 seconds of cranking before it starts, after it starts the Service Engine Light stays on with a code 32. It always runs great after each start, it just takes alot more cranking. I checked the EGR valve, it moves freely and is not stuck. No vacum leaks. Any ideas?
Last edited by pacat; Sep 14, 2010 at 08:52 PM. Reason: Added info
Drifting
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From: Westerly RI
If you can get your hands on a FSM, there are several pages on diagnosis with a code 32. The valve may move freely, but it may not be operating properly resulting from several causes. Various other sensors are involved, as well as a solenoid that activates the EGR valve.
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Did you physically remove the valve assembly and inspect it for leaks?
The diaphragms are particularly susceptible to minute cracks and other degradations over time from engine heat that eventually result in tiny vacuum leaks.
You may also have a malfunctioning EGR solenoid or solenoid switch. Again, your FSM will help you troubleshoot and make an accurate diagnosis.
The diaphragms are particularly susceptible to minute cracks and other degradations over time from engine heat that eventually result in tiny vacuum leaks.
You may also have a malfunctioning EGR solenoid or solenoid switch. Again, your FSM will help you troubleshoot and make an accurate diagnosis.
Last edited by onedef92; Sep 15, 2010 at 10:10 AM.
Burning Brakes
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St. Jude Donor '05
I only know that on an 87 the EGR temp switch is what triggers a code 32. The switch heats up and closes when the EGR is open. If the ECM sees that the switch has a history of being closed or open at the wrong times, it sets a code 32 the next time the car is started. If the EGR is open when you are trying to start the car, then that is a big vacuum leak. It might just be a coincidence, but if I were you I would take the EGR off and make sure the sure the seating surfaces are clean and the valve can really close off the air flow. While it's off, you can pull vacuum on the diaphragm and see if it stays full open under vac, that will tell you if the diaphragm is cracked. If nothing there, you can run the FCM test onthe EGR solenoid. See how this goes?
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St. Jude Donor '09-'10, '14
I only know that on an 87 the EGR temp switch is what triggers a code 32. The switch heats up and closes when the EGR is open. If the ECM sees that the switch has a history of being closed or open at the wrong times, it sets a code 32 the next time the car is started. If the EGR is open when you are trying to start the car, then that is a big vacuum leak. It might just be a coincidence, but if I were you I would take the EGR off and make sure the sure the seating surfaces are clean and the valve can really close off the air flow. While it's off, you can pull vacuum on the diaphragm and see if it stays full open under vac, that will tell you if the diaphragm is cracked. If nothing there, you can run the FCM test onthe EGR solenoid. See how this goes?
When does the light come on? Mine was coming on at cruise speeds and setting the code.
It may just need cleaned, mine did.
I have heard and read a bad EGR can cause a hard start.
The EGR valve, or Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve, is a vacuum controlled valve which allows a specific amount of your exhaust back into the intake manifold. This exhaust mixes with the intake air and actually cools the combustion process. Cooler is always better inside your engine. The exhaust your EGR valve recirculates also prevents the formation of Nitrogen related gases. These are referred to as NOX emissions, and are a common cause for failing emissions testing. Unfortunately, your EGR valve can get stuck, causing NOX gases to build up. You'll know if your EGR valve is stuck or malfunctioning because your car will experience symptoms like rough idle and bucking on accelertaion.
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From: Erie PA
Bad Valve?
The light will turn on about 5 seconds after the engine starts.
Today I started the engine, ran a hose from a intake vacum port straight to the EGR valve. The valve did not open. I then removed the valve from the engine and tested it with a vacum pump. It would not open. I can move the diaphram by pushing on it with my fingers so I know it's not bound up. Tomarrow I will pick up a new EGR valve and install it. Thanks for the help, I will let you know how it turns out.
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From: Erie PA
woops not so fast, problem still there
After I installed the new EGR valve and disconected the battery to clear the codes I took a 20 mile ride. Everything was ok, it started fast with no check engine light. Today it's back to the old problem, 5-10 seconds of cranking before it will start. About 5 seconds after the engine starts the "Check Engine" light comes on. I'm also getting the code 32 "EGR". Once it's started it drives great.
Drifting
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From: Westerly RI
After I installed the new EGR valve and disconected the battery to clear the codes I took a 20 mile ride. Everything was ok, it started fast with no check engine light. Today it's back to the old problem, 5-10 seconds of cranking before it will start. About 5 seconds after the engine starts the "Check Engine" light comes on. I'm also getting the code 32 "EGR". Once it's started it drives great.
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Check the EGR port with the valve removed. Some people forget to remove the old carbon lodged in there first before bolting the new part on there.
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From: Erie PA
Bad OPTI was the problem.
I got the problem fixed last fall, sorry but I forgot to update my posting. After checking all the usual things on the engine with the FSM. I decided to take the car to a AC Delco Garage and have it scanned. It turned out to be the OPTI was bad. I think the reason I over looked the OPTI is because I replaced it the year before with a brand new MSD unit. I took the OPTI back off and sent it back to MSD. They fixed the problem and sent it back to me a couple weeks later. I installed it back on the car and so far put about a 1,000 miles on it with no more problems or codes.
On a side note, while installing the repaired opti I got a timing cover gasket kit that had the gaskets for the water pump, opti shaft, and water pump shaft. I only needed the 2 gaskets for the water pump but I thought why not replace the water pump shaft gasket as well. (you know the one that requires the special tool to install). Well you guessed it, the next day after I took the car for it’s first ride I found a puddle of oil under the engine. Seems I got the inner seal folded over when I installed it. Back off with the water pump and opti to change the seal again. I’m getting pretty good at this. You got to love the LT1, lol.
On a side note, while installing the repaired opti I got a timing cover gasket kit that had the gaskets for the water pump, opti shaft, and water pump shaft. I only needed the 2 gaskets for the water pump but I thought why not replace the water pump shaft gasket as well. (you know the one that requires the special tool to install). Well you guessed it, the next day after I took the car for it’s first ride I found a puddle of oil under the engine. Seems I got the inner seal folded over when I installed it. Back off with the water pump and opti to change the seal again. I’m getting pretty good at this. You got to love the LT1, lol.
