C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Leaking Trans

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Old Sep 20, 2010 | 01:21 PM
  #1  
Ant1981's Avatar
Ant1981
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Default Leaking Trans

Hi all. Since having my auto box rebuilt, I've been getting a leak from the sump. It's around where the cork gasket goes. I've spoken to the rebuilder and I'm satisfied with his answer, that the cork gaskets aren't very good and to try and tighten the bolts a bit more and that there may be a better gasket out there. I nipped up some of the bolts, but I'm still leaking.

But I'm curious, what do you guys get? What have you had to do if anything for a leaking trans?
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Old Oct 8, 2010 | 12:14 AM
  #2  
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From: Cairns Australia
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I'm just searching this subject too - I remember reading something years ago about how to make the seal better, and now can't remember!! - please count me as subscribed to this thread
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Old Oct 8, 2010 | 07:34 AM
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Pete K
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Originally Posted by Ant1981
Hi all. Since having my auto box rebuilt, I've been getting a leak from the sump. It's around where the cork gasket goes. I've spoken to the rebuilder and I'm satisfied with his answer, that the cork gaskets aren't very good and to try and tighten the bolts a bit more and that there may be a better gasket out there. I nipped up some of the bolts, but I'm still leaking.

But I'm curious, what do you guys get? What have you had to do if anything for a leaking trans?
Nipping bolts is not the correct way to go about it. Bolts should be torqued, in sequence, to 105 INCH pounds. Then, a week later, retorque to 105 INCH pounds.
In my experiences, cork works extremely well.

I would buy a new gasket, clean the pan rail, and confirm flatness, then re-install w/new gasket. Lube with a thin layer of vaseline only. NO sealers.
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Old Oct 8, 2010 | 08:18 AM
  #4  
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From: Kansas City MO
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Originally Posted by Pete K
I would buy a new gasket, clean the pan rail, and confirm flatness, then re-install w/new gasket. Lube with a thin layer of vaseline only. NO sealers.
The only thing I would add is to install a drain plug kit when you're in there again - makes dropping the pan a lot cleaner next time

The thin sheetmetal pan usually gets distorted from over-tightening - a quick bit of hammer/dolly work can get it flat again ( you'll see it raised right around the bolt holes - tap them down flat or even slightly 'lower' than the surrounding rail. I've not had problems with cork either but the trans supply shop I buy from is only selling the black (rubber coated?) ones now so that's what I've been using.

Also - be sure to double-check where it's leaking from - a front pump seal or shift selector shaft seal leak can travel down then around the pan rail and drip off far away from the seal that's actually leaking making it look like the pan...
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