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How do i remove the boots on the balljoints?? The look like they
are pressed in? I am replacing with Energy Suspensions new boots.
The tie rod boot pulled right off,but the others i am unsure of.
Any help before the holiday meal??
Matt :confused:
When I did my suspension bushings I used the poly boots that came with the kit. Two of my old boots were torn/cracked, so I just used a razor blade and cut off the old boot as close to the control arm as possible. Then I wiped off as much grease as I could to make sure I had removed all the visible boot. Since the boots had tears/cracks I then flushed a bunch of grease through the joint, wiped that off, put on the new boot, retorqued the castle nut, and regreased the joint. I hope that helps.
When I did my suspension bushings I used the poly boots that came with the kit. Two of my old boots were torn/cracked, so I just used a razor blade and cut off the old boot as close to the control arm as possible. Then I wiped off as much grease as I could to make sure I had removed all the visible boot. Since the boots had tears/cracks I then flushed a bunch of grease through the joint, wiped that off, put on the new boot, retorqued the castle nut, and regreased the joint. I hope that helps.
Bob
I think you may have made a mistake. The stock ball joint boots have a metal ring that's pressed over the ball joint. If you get a dull screwdriver, you can pry the old ring out. The new poly ball joint boots do not use the metal ring so they just slip right over the ball joint. If you have a stock set up, I'm pretty sure you left the old ball joint ring over the ball joint.
When you installed your poly boots, did it seem that they didn't quite fit in place? Did you have to muscle the boots just a little? If so, you forgot to remove the old metal ring.
I just replaced the upper and lower ball joints on my 86. The lower boot is installed after the ball joint is in place so it should be easily replacable. the upper boot is installed at the same time as the ball joint from the top of the control arm. looks like it is possible to just replace the upper but I'm not sure it would stay in place after filling it with grease. Getting all of the old upper boot out will probably be a problem. replacing the ball joints is another story. bottom easy, top, not so easy. If you are doing the upper and lower control arm bushings, it would be a good time to do the ball joints also. You didn't say how many miles on the car. One of my lower joints had somehow gotten alot of water in it some time before I bought it and was very rusty.
It's been a while since I changed the boots on my ball joints. If I remember correctly, both the upper and lower ball joints boots were held in place with a metal ring which is pressed on the body of the ball joint. I have never changed the ball joints on my car so I can't comment on replacing the boots with ball joints that have been previously replaced. My experience with the boot swap was with a 1988 roadster that had original upper and lower ball joints.
The vette has about 65k on the clock. The balljoints feel tight with
no slop at all. I believe they are the originals. The metal ring would
come off with the boot if you used a razor to cut it, If you are just
talking about the ring that is closest to the castle nut. I was thinking
of doing it this way anyhow,but do not want the joint to fail at a later
date. The tie rod boot had a tear in it and so does the upper balljoint.
I won't be working on it any more t-nite,(holiday),but will check in the
morning for any other replies. Probably going to do the razor thing
unless someone really objects.
Thanks
Matt
:cheers:
fnally had time to finish the pass. side as far as bushings go.
start the driver side tomorrow,Now i know what i am doing
and it will be easy! Had to polish the a-arms while i was there!
Matt